《岩穴探幽记》

雅舍

<p class="ql-block">翌日,余晨起栉沐,膳讫,遂踽踽独行于崖间古道,以求岩穴之幽胜。所经之处,环余皆层峦叠嶂,碧崖翠壁,横亘霄壤,巍然若与天浮。蹑石磴以陟,登峰造极,至凤凰亭焉,其翼然独峙于群山之巅。凭轩而瞰,但见飞瀑千尺,声若雷鸣,疑似银河自九天而落;洪涛滚滚,势如万马奔突,冲刷洲渚,撼人心魄。立崖之畔,若临危亭,摇摇欲坠,惊心动魄。此即名游侠徐霞客昔所历之境,余乃踵其迹而游焉。</p> <p class="ql-block">俯瞰群峰,皆若稽首;下临河际,穴岩架木,凌虚临水为栈道。纡曲而行,临流揽胜,其乐陶陶。未几,忽见一洞穴, 镌“藏金洞”三字于其上,昔为盗贼藏宝之所,因以得名。余趋而觇之,洞内似有微光,明灭可见,乃持灯而入。</p> <p class="ql-block">初入,洞狭而邃,或如一线之天,或若殿堂之广。行数丈,豁然开朗,别有洞天,若入未知之仙境。深入其间,光线渐柔,景致愈显。琉璃彩灯,形各殊异,光影陆离,流转不息。赤橙黄绿青蓝紫,若天虹垂于洞壁之上,光彩耀目,绚烂至极,美轮美奂,诚乃奇观也。</p> <p class="ql-block">洞顶垂悬石花、石柱、石幔诸般钟乳,森然罗列,错落有致。其形千姿百态,或剑指苍穹,或珠帘低垂;或神龙腾飞,或仙女散花。纵遐思之翼,则“横看成岭侧成峰,远近高低各不同” ,洵为大观。其色斑斓多彩,或白若凝脂,或红似丹霞,或绿比翡翠,或蓝赛宝石,宛如八仙竞艳,各展其姿,熠熠生辉,令人目眩神迷,应接不暇。其势则类榕城七星岩、芦笛岩之宏壮,亦似苏杭林屋、瑶琳仙境之伟观。</p> <p class="ql-block">洞中隐有暗湖,凉意沁人,矿土之馨盈于气,清新宜人。泉滴泠泠,清越如乐,于洞府间铮摐。湖平若镜,光影斑驳,倒映岩壁之参差,上下辉映,美不胜收。偶有鱼跃,激涟漪,破宁静,旋复归如初,意趣盎然。</p> <p class="ql-block">徜徉其间,赏奇石之光华,若瞻神工,清尘世之杂念;聆清泉之潺湲,若闻天籁,涤心灵之秽垢。目之所及,悦目而爽心;心之所感,神怡而气畅。故而驻足而流连,不舍斯景之妙也。</p> <p class="ql-block">然洞径纡曲多歧,幽窈莫测,夹峙逼仄,几令气窒心迫。崎岖蜿蜒间,忽若复归其始。屡经周折,终犹盘桓于故处,若入迷宫,自疑陷歧途,惘然意乱,心怦怦然。</p> <p class="ql-block">是时,洞中惟闻水声,余皆寂然。忽忆幼时所闻 “鬼打转”之说,遂仿若魑魅于暗中环伺,心怵而悸,魂魄难宁。俄顷,陡觉幽影蹑踵,遂疾走益急,心悸愈甚,乃至惶遽愈深,恨不骤弃之而去。其状诚可谓“仓皇”也。</p> <p class="ql-block">余惶惶然亟欲觅路而返,然四顾茫然, 莫识其径,犹热釜之蚁,心焦若焚。然凝神静虑,悟洞天福地,岂无生途?遂敛神静气,缓履徐行,秉探灯以照幽壁,细索标帜。须臾,于嶙峋洞壁间,微见出口之标,如获至宝,欣悦若狂矣。余乃缘迹而登,疾陟良久,终睹一线天光,若久困矿穴之人乍见天日之喜,遂奋力攀出洞口。</p> <p class="ql-block">出洞之际,已疲惫至极,股软筋酥,骨懈肉散,躯若灌铅,难以举步。然回望幽洞,仿若经时空之旅,自往古迄今,心中涌莫名之感。岩洞非惟自然之景也,更若智者之化身,默述地球之往事,俾余于须臾之顷,悟时光之流转与生命之渺小。</p><p class="ql-block">乃记此所历,以飨微友诸君。</p> <p class="ql-block">The following day, I got up in the morning, freshened up, and finished my breakfast, then set off alone on the ancient path between the cliffs, in search of the secluded beauty of a rock cave. Everywhere I passed, all around me were layers of ridges and peaks piled one upon another, with green cliffs and verdant walls, stretching across the sky and the earth, appearing towering majestically as if they were floating with the heavens. I stepped on the stone steps to ascend, reaching the summit, and arriving at the Phoenix Pavilion, which stood solitary and prominent on the summit of the mountains like a phoenix spreading its wings. Leaning on the railing and looking down, I saw a thousand-foot waterfall, its roar like thunder, which seemed like the Milky Way cascading from the ninth heaven; the surging waves rolled with a momentum like ten thousand horses galloping, surging past the sandbanks and shaking one's soul. Standing on the edge of the cliff, I felt as if I were facing a perilous pavilion, which seemed to sway and was about to collapse, thrilling and terrifying. This was the very place Xu Xiake, the famous traveler, had once explored, and now I was following in his footsteps to retrace his journey.</p> <p class="ql-block">翌日、私は朝起きて髪をすき顔を洗い、急いで食事を済ませ、崖間の古道を踽踽と独り歩き、岩穴の幽勝を求める。通ったところ、私を取り巻くのは皆層々と重なる山々と緑豊かな崖で、それらは天と地をつなぐように横たわり、まるで天と浮かんでいるかのように巍然としてそびえ立っていた。石段を踏みしめて登り、頂上に達すると、鳳凰亭に至って、その亭は翼を広げた鳳凰のように、群山のピークに独り立ちしていた。欄干にもたれて見下ろすと、千尺の飛瀑が見え、その轟音は雷鳴のように響き、まるで天の川が九天から降り注いでくるかのように見えた;また、洪涛は滾々と押し寄せ、その勢いは万馬が奔騰のように、砂洲を衝撃し、人の魂を揺さぶる。崖のほとりに立って、危ない亭に临むようで、ゆらゆらと今にも倒れそうで、心を震わせるものである。これこそが著名な旅人徐霞客が昔探検した場所で、私は彼の足跡をたどって遊覧しているのである。</p> <p class="ql-block">Overlooking the peaks, all of which seemed kowtow-like; Looking down at the riverbank from above, holes were dug in the cliff wall and boards were erected, forming a suspended walkway above the void and water. Wandering along the winding walkway, I faced the flowing water and enjoyed the beautiful scenery, feeling immense pleasure. Soon after, a cave suddenly came into view, with the three words "Treasure Cave" engraved upon it. In the past, it was a place where robbers hid their treasures, hence its name. I hurried over to peek inside and there seemed to be a faint light flickering in and out of sight within the cave, so I entered with a torch in hand.</p> <p class="ql-block">群峰を俯瞰すると、すべてが稽首のように見えた;川岸を上から見下ろすと、崖の壁に孔を開けて板を架け、それによって虚空に浮かび水面に臨む栈道ができていた。曲がりくねった桟道を歩きながら、流れる水に面して景勝を楽しみ、その楽しさは陶然たるものであった。程なくして、突然一つの洞穴が見えてきた。その上には「蔵金洞」という三文字が刻まれていたが、昔ここは盗賊が宝物を隠した場所で、それで名が付いた。私は急ぎ寄り、それを覗いてみると、洞穴の中に微かな光があるようで、点滅して見えて、そこで懐中電灯を持って入った。</p> <p class="ql-block">Upon initial entry, the cave was narrow and deep, sometimes like a thread of sky, and sometimes as spacious as a palace hall. After walking a few dozen feet, the cave suddenly opened up, brightening to reveal a different world within, as if entering an unknown fairyland. As one delved deeper into it, the light gradually grew gentler, making the scenery more distinct. The glazed colored lamps, each with a unique shape, with their lights and shadows varied and dazzling, flowing and shifting without cease. The colors of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet were like a rainbow hanging from the cave wall, shining with dazzling and brilliance, reaching an extreme level of splendor, exquisitely beautiful and magnificent, truly a spectacle to behold.</p> <p class="ql-block">洞窟に入った途端、穴径は狭くて奥行きが深く、時には一筋の空の如く、時には殿堂の広さに似ている。数丈進むと、空間が急に開け放たれ、明るくなり、別の天地があり、まるで未知の仙境に入るなら。さらに奥に入るにつれて、光が徐々に柔らかくなり、景観もますますはっきりしてくる。瑠璃の彩灯、形がそれぞれ異なっていて、光と影が錯综して、絶え間なく流れて移り変わっている。赤橙黄緑青藍紫の諸色は、まるで洞窟の壁に虹がぶら下がっていたようで、その光彩が目をきらきらさせて、絢爛きわまりなく、極めて壮美で、誠に奇観である。</p> <p class="ql-block">The roof of the cave is overhung with various stalactites such as stone flowers, stone pillars and stone curtains, varied and intricately arranged. Their shapes are diverse and multifarious, some pointing to the sky like swords, some hanging low like bead curtains; some soaring like divine dragons, and some scattering flowers like fairies. If you let your wings of imagination take flight, just as the poem says, "viewed from the front, it looks like mountains; viewed from the side, it looks like peaks, viewed from far and near, from high and low, each has its own different view," truly a grand spectacle. Their colors are dazzling and multicolored, some white as fresh cream, some red as Danxia landform, some as green as jade, some blue as sapphire, like the Eight Immortals competing in beauty, each displaying its own postures, gleaming brilliantly, leaving one's eyes and mind bewildered, unable to take it all in. Its momentum is similar to the grandeur of Seven Star Cave and Reed Flute Cave in Rongcheng, and also resembles the magnificence of Linwu Cave in Suzhou and Yaolin Wonderland in Hangzhou.</p> <p class="ql-block">洞頂にはぶら下がっている石の花、石の柱、石の幕などの多種多様な鐘乳石が、森然と羅列されており、錯落して趣がある。その形は千姿万態、剣のように蒼穹を指しているものもあれば、ビーズのカーテンのように低く垂れ下がっているものもあり;神龍のように舞い上がるものもあれば、仙女のように花を散らすものもある。想像力の翼を広げてみると、詩にあるように、「横から見れば嶺となり、側から見れば峰となる、遠近高低それぞれ異なる」と言えるほど、まさに大観である。その色は斑斓多彩で、白は凝脂の如きものもあれば、赤は丹霞の如きものもあり、緑は翡翠の如きものもあれば、青は宝石の如きものもあり、まるで八仙が艶を競い合っているかのように、それぞれが自分の姿を披露し、輝きを放ち、目の眩しさに人を魅了させ、対応しきれないほどである。その勢いは、榕城の七星岩、蘆笛岩の広壮さに似ており、また蘇杭の林屋、瑤琳仙境の偉観さにも似ている。</p> <p class="ql-block">There is an underground lake concealed within the cave, exuding a refreshing coolness, and the air is suffused with the fragrance of ores and earth, which is fresh and pleasant. Spring droplets tinkle, clear and melodious like music, chiming within the cave. The lake is as smooth as a mirror, with mottled light and shadow, reflecting the unevenness of the rock walls, with the interplay of light and shadow dances up and down between the water and the walls, rendering it beautifully mesmerizing beyond measure. Occasionally, fish leap out, stirring up ripples and breaking the tranquility, and then quickly return to its original state, full of charm and interest.</p> <p class="ql-block">洞の中には隠れた地下湖があり、涼しさが人を沁み込み、空気中には鉱土の香りが満ちていて、清新で心地よい。泉の滴がチリンチリンと鳴り、音楽のように澄みきって美しい音を出し、洞窟の中で響き渡る。湖は鏡のように平らで、光と影が斑らになり、岩壁の参差を反射し、上下に照り映えて、美しくてたまらない。時折魚が飛び跳ね、さざ波を起こし、静けさを破るが、すぐに元の状態に戻り、趣が満ち溢れている。</p> <p class="ql-block">Wandering amidst it, admiring the brilliance of the peculiar rocks, as if beholding the miraculous craftsmanship of the gods, purging the mind of worldly distractions; Listening to the gentle flow of the clear spring, as if hearing celestial melodies, purifying the soul of its impurities. All that meets the eye is pleasing to the eye and refreshing to the heart; all that the heart feels is delightful to the spirit and smooth to the breath. Hence, I stop to linger, loath to leave the wonder of this scene.</p> <p class="ql-block">その中を漫歩しながら、奇石の光華を鑑賞し、まるで神の技を目の当たりにするかのように、世俗の雑念を清める;清い泉のせせらぎを聴き、まるで天の音を聞くかのように、心の汚れを洗い流す。目に映るものは、目を楽しませ、心をさわやかにする;心に感じるものは、神を怡し、気分がすっきりする。だからこそ、足を止めて流連し、この景色の妙味を惜しむ。</p> <p class="ql-block">However, the cave path was tortuous, branching out in all directions, its depths were unfathomable and obscure, and the narrow rock walls on both sides pressed in tightly, almost suffocating and oppressing me. Amidst the rugged and winding path, I suddenly felt as if I had returned to the beginning again. After going through numerous twists and turns, I ended up still hovering around the original place, as if I had entered a maze, doubting that I had fallen into the wrong path, feeling lost, confused, and my heart pounding.</p> <p class="ql-block">しかし、洞径は曲がりくねって岐路が多く、奥深くて暗さが計り知れず、両側の狭い岩壁が迫りつけ合い、ほとんど息苦しく心を迫らせるほどである。険しく曲がりくねった狭い道を進む間に、忽ちにして再び最初の場所に戻ったような気がする。何度も紆余曲折を経ながらも、結局はやはり元の場所で徘徊し、迷宮に入ったかの如く、自ら歧路に陥ったと疑い、惘然として意が乱れ、心臓は怦怦と動いている。</p> <p class="ql-block">At that time, only the sound of water was heard in the cave; everything else was completely silent. Suddenly I recalled the saying of "ghosts turning in circles" that I had heard in my childhood, and then it felt as if evil spirits were lurking around in the dark, watching me. My heart pounded with fear, and my soul found no peace. In an instant, I suddenly felt a shadow creeping up my heels closely, and then I ran faster and faster, my heart pounding more violently, my panic deepening, and I desperately desired to abandon this place and flee immediately. At that moment, my situation could truly be described as "panic-stricken".</p> <p class="ql-block">その時、洞窟の中では水音だけが聞こえ、他は皆静まり返っていた。突然、幼少時に聞いた「鬼打転」(夜道を歩いている時、ずっと同じ場所を回り続けて、抜け出せない)という説を思い出し、まるで魑魅が闇の中で私を囲んで、窺っているように感じられ、心は怯えながら激しく悸き始め、魂は安らぎを得ることができなかった。しばらくして、急に幽霊の影が踵に忍び寄ったと感じ、それでますます急ぎ足を速め、動悸がますますひどくなり、ひいては恐怖もますます深くなり、急いでこの場所を捨ててすぐに逃げ去ることを切望するほどになった。その瞬間の様子は誠に「慌てふためく」と言えるだろう。</p> <p class="ql-block">I was in a state of great panic and urgently sought a way back, but looking around in confusion, and couldn't discern the path, feeling like an ant on a hot cauldron, my heart burning with anxiety. Yet, when I concentrated my mind and pondered calmly, it dawned on me that in such a heavenly and blessed land of the cave, how could there be no way out? So, with composure, I walked slowly, holding a flashlight to illuminate the dark walls, and carefully searching for signs. In an instant, amidst the jagged cave walls, I caught a faint glimpse of a marker indicating the exit, ecstatic as if I had found a priceless treasure. I then followed the mark upwards, climbing swiftly for a long time, and finally saw a ray of sky light, like a long-trapped miner suddenly beholding the sun, and then I mustered all my strength to climb out of the cave entrance.</p> <p class="ql-block">私は慌てふためきながら、急いで道を探して戻ろうとしたが、周りを見渡しても茫然として、その道を識別できず、熱釜の上の蟻のように感じ、心は焦りで燃え上がった。しかし、心を凝らして静かに考え込んでみて、この洞天福地にはまさか生路はないのでしょうかと悟った。そこで、気持ちを鎮め、ゆっくりと歩き、懐中電灯を持って暗い壁を照らし、細心の注意を払って標識を探した。間もなく、ごつごつした洞の壁の間で、出口を示すマーカーをかすかに見つけ, 至宝を手に入れたように、狂喜した。そこで私はそのマーカーを辿って登り始め、しばらく激しく登った末、ついに一筋の天の光が見え, 長く鉱山の穴に閉じ込められていた人が突然太陽の光を見た時の喜びのように感じ、それから思いきり力を振り絞って洞窟の出口 を登り出た。</p> <p class="ql-block">Upon emerging from the cave, I was utterly exhausted, feeling my legs jelly-like, muscles limp, bones seemingly loosened, and flesh scattered, as if my body were filled with lead, rendering it difficult for me to take even a single step. Yet, looking back into the dark depths of the cave, it felt as if I had traversed a journey through time and space, from ancient times to the present, stirring an inexplicable sensation within me. The rock cave is not merely a natural landscape; it is more like the embodiment of a wise being, silently narrating the earth’s past, allowing me in an instant to grasp the flow of time and the insignificance of life. </p><p class="ql-block">Thus, I recorded this experience here to share it with all my WeChat friends.</p> <p class="ql-block">洞窟を出た際、すでに限界まで疲れ果てており、足が軟らかく筋力が抜け、骨が緩み肉がばらばらで、体がまるで鉛を注がれたかのように重く感じ、一歩さえも踏み出しにくいほどであった。しかし、その幽暗たる洞穴を振り返ると、まるで太古の昔から現在に至るまでの時空の旅を経たかのようで、心の中には名状しがたい感じが湧いてきた。岩洞は単なる自然の景観ではなく、それはむしろ知者の化身のようなもので、黙々と地球の昔のことを語り、私に一瞬の間に、時の流れと生命の小ささを悟らせてくれた。</p><p class="ql-block">それでこの経験を記録し、ウィーチャットフレンドの皆様と共有することにした。</p>