葡萄牙 波尔图, Portugal Porto, June 19-22 2024

劳伦斯

下一站是波尔图，葡萄牙的第二大城市。 它在布拉格西南面大约60公里。 有城际巴士来往，路程大约一个小时。单程票价欧元3.49。 网上订票还可以选坐位，要另加收欧元2.99。我挑选了靠近司机的第一排位子，可以一览无遗沿途的风景了。

Porto was the next stop on this trip, the second largest city in Portugal. It is about 60 kilometres southwest of Braga. The intercity buses connect two cities. The ticket costs 3.49 euros with the seat selection option, which adds another 2.99 euros. I selected the first-row seat near the driver, where I could have the full view along the way.

布拉格巴士站的二楼有餐厅，里面坐满了人。有三个服务员穿梭于餐桌之间招呼客人。一个服务员和在一张小桌子上吃饭的老人讲了几句话，她把桌子整理一下，示意我过来坐下。我听说过葡萄牙北部有分享餐桌，分享美食的风俗习惯。真没有想到在这里就体验到了。我谢谢这位老人，也就坐下了。
我也点了他正在吃的炸鱼块。很快我的炸鱼餐就来了。四大块鱼堆在满满的米饭上，量太多吃不完。老人已经吃得差不多了，正在喝葡萄酒。我拿了一块鱼示意请他帮助。他看着我，没有表示拒绝，我放进了他的盘子。
我用手机翻译再次感谢他让我一起和他用餐。他说我点的是套餐，还配有饮料和甜点。我就要了一瓶水，把甜点再次请他帮忙吃了。
我们开始聊天，我用手机翻译勉强互相沟通了。他还等我吃完了，才一起起身， 然后握手道别。真的很绅士！

The restaurant on the second floor in the bus terminal was almost full. Three waitresses were busy serving guests. A waitress spoke to an old man who was eating at a small table. She re-arranged the table, and then motioned me to sit down. I have learned that there is a custom of sharing tables and food in northern Portugal, but I didn't expect to experience it here. I thanked the old man and sat down.
I ordered the fried fish filet, the same as he was eating. Soon my fried fish came. Four big pieces of fish were piled on a plateful of rice. It was too much. The old man had almost finished eating and was drinking his wine. I took a piece of fish and motioned for him to help. He looked at me and didn't refuse, so I put it on his plate.
I used the phone translator to thank him again for letting me eating with him. He told me that my order was a set, which also included the drink and a dessert. I asked for a bottle of water and requested his help again to finish the dessert.
We started to chat; the mobile phone translator app helped us communicate with each other. He waited until I finished my lunch before getting up. We shook hands and said goodbye. What a great gentleman!

波尔图是葡萄牙西北部的一座沿海城市。几个世纪前就有人在这里定居了。它是欧洲最古老的城市之一。

Porto is a coastal city in the northwestern Portugal. There were settlements here in centuries ago. The city is one of the oldest cities in Europe.

第二天早上我先去了证券交易所大楼，大楼前面的广场树立着航海家亨利王子的雕像。参观证券交易所需要预约。我订了明天中午的时间再回来。

The next morning, I first went to the stock exchange, Palácio da Bolsa. The statue of Prince Henry, the Navigator, stood in the square in front of the building. Advance reservation is required, I booked an appointment at the noon time tomorrow.

圣弗朗西斯科教堂位于交易所和杜罗河游客区之间，以其奢华的巴洛克风格内部装饰和华丽的镀金雕刻而闻名。教堂使用了超过 200 公斤的黄金。遗憾的是不让拍照留念，参观全程有保安监视。

Located between the Palácio da Bolsa and the Douro River tourist area, the Church of São Francisco is a famous church for its luxurious Baroque interior and ornate gilded carvings. The church used more than 200 kilograms of gold. Taking photos inside is strictly prohibited, the security personnels were posted throughout the visit.

杜罗河边的里贝拉广场，葡萄牙语意为河畔广场。河边林立一排色彩鲜艳的房子是波尔图的标志。众多的房子里开设了餐厅，上面楼台面对杜罗河。狭窄蜿蜒的鹅卵石街道上餐厅，咖啡馆连接不断。游客在这里欣赏著名的路易斯一世大桥和杜罗河的美景。

Praça da Ribeira, which means Riverside Square in Portuguese, is a busy area along the Douro River. The row of colourful houses is the renowned symbol of Porto. Many houses have restaurants and terraces facing the Douro River. The narrow winding cobblestone streets are lined with restaurants and cafes. Visitors here could relax and enjoy the beautiful view of the famous Luis I Bridge and the Douro River.

里贝拉区是城市的历史中心，被联合国教科文组织指定为世界遗产。自中世纪以来一直是商业和制造业活动的中心。从那时起，里贝拉广场上就有许多商店，出售鱼、面包、肉类和其他商品。目前已经完全是游客中心。

The Ribeira district is the historic centre of the city, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. There were many shops selling fish, bread, meat and other goods since the Middle Ages. Today, it is entirely a tourist centre.

从河边的狭窄的小路可以通向上城区的历史中心。波尔图人对每天这样上山下山习以为常。

There narrow alleyways lead to the historic centre of the upper city. The people in Porto are used to going up and down the stairs every day.

真理圣母礼拜堂建于十七世纪，是圣地亚哥朝圣之路的驿站。她为经过波尔图的朝圣者提供食宿。

The Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Verdades was built in the 17th century as a Welcome Centre for the pilgrims of the Camino de Santiago. It provided accommodation for pilgrims passing through Porto.

波尔图大教堂 位于城市最高的山丘上，是波尔图的地标建筑。从大教堂前的要塞广场可以欣赏到整个城市和杜罗河流的壮丽景色。大教堂内部是美丽的哥特式风格。连接大教堂旁边是一座修道院。修道院里有安东尼奥·维塔尔绘制的蓝白色瓷砖墙板。

The Porto Cathedral is located on the highest hill in the city and is a landmark of Porto. From the Terriero da Se Fortress Square in front of the cathedral, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the entire city and the Douro River. The interior of the cathedral is a beautiful Gothic style. Attached to the cathedral is a monastery. The monastery has blue and white tile wall panels painted by António Vital.

路易斯一世大桥是波尔图杜罗河上最著名的拱桥。这座桥梁长 400 米，由古斯塔夫·埃菲尔（埃菲尔铁塔的设计者）的合伙人设计。桥的下半部供机动车通行，上半部供地铁通行，两边是步行通道。

The Dom Luis I Bridge is the most famous arch bridge over the Douro River in Porto. The 400-meter-long bridge was designed by a partner of Gustave Eiffel (who designed the Eiffel Tower). The lower level of the bridge is for cars, the upper level for the metro, and the pedestrian walkways on both sides.

波特酒是葡萄牙最著名的出口产品之一，以波尔图命名。通过路易斯一世大桥可以到达汇聚所有著名酒窖的加亚新城。这次的行程我不够时间去到那里，希望今后有机会去看。

Port wine is one of Portugal’s most famous exports, named after Porto. Vila Nova de Gaia, where all the famous wine cellars are, can be reached via the Dom Luis I Bridge. I didn’t have enough time on this trip, but I hope to have a chance to see it in the future.

在市区中心快餐店点了猪肉丝汉堡包，我坐在店外面的一张小桌子，休息一下和享受美好的天气。 这里的鸽子习惯和游客在一起，大概也是到了它们“午餐”的时间了。


I ordered a pulled pork hamburger at a fast-food restaurant in the city centre. I sat at a table outside, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful weather. The pigeons here are used to being with tourists, and it was perhaps their "lunch time" too.

市中心的圣本笃火车站是葡萄牙最重要的火车站之一。也是波尔图最著名的游览地方之一，所以我也要必须来打卡。
在 19 世纪建造火车站之前，这里是一座修道院。车站大厅采用画家豪尔赫·科拉索绘制的瓷砖画。他以美丽蓝白色的瓷砖描述葡萄牙北部的历史。

The São Bento train station in the city centre is one of the most important train stations in Portugal. It is also one of the most famous places to visit in Porto, so I came to check it out.
The train station was built on a monastery in the 19th century. The station hall features tile paintings by the painter Jorge Colaço. The beautiful blue and white tiles describe the history of northern Portugal. 

几个世纪以来沙丁鱼一直是葡萄牙人的主食，是他们古老捕鱼传统的重要组成部分，也是他们文化不可分割的一部分。沙丁鱼曾被认为是“穷人的食物“。他们最重要的传统之一是庆祝圣安东尼，他是一位方济各会修士，也是穷人的忠实守护神。葡萄牙人每年六月都会庆祝里斯本的守护神，人们几乎每天都吃沙丁鱼。 

Sardines have been a staple of the Portuguese diet for centuries, a vital part of their ancient fishing traditions, and an integral part of their culture. Sardines were once considered as the "poor man's food.” One of their most important traditions is the celebration of Saint Anthony, a Franciscan friar and a dedicated patron of the poor. The Portuguese celebrate Lisbon’s Patron Saint every June, and people eat sardines almost daily. 

这家沙丁鱼专卖店里成列着几十种包装的沙丁鱼罐头，琳琅满目。我问了店员哪一种比较好。他说罐头里面的鱼都一样，仅仅是包装不同！他倒是还挺实在的。

This sardine specialty store has dozens of different cans of sardines on display. I asked the clerk which one is better. He said that the fish in the cans are all the same, only the packaging is different! He's quite honest.

我在博豪市场倒是很有收获，买了好几罐不同口味，不同牌子的沙丁鱼罐头。

I had a lot of fun at Mercado do Bolhão, where I bought a few canned sardines of different flavours and different brands.

我在预约的时间到了证券交易所宫。波尔图的证券交易所大楼是一座非常重要的历史古迹。这栋十九世纪的建筑以前是一个股票市场，是为了吸引潜在的欧洲投资者而建造的。参观需要跟随导游走。

I arrived at the Palacio de Bolsa at the scheduled time. The Palacio de Bolsa in Porto is a very important historical monument. This 19th century building was previously a stock market and was built to attract potential European investors. The visitors were arranged into groups, and each group led by a tour guide. 

宫殿中阿拉伯房间的金丝装饰风格华丽突特，是证券交易所展览馆里的特别亮点。

The Arabian rooms in the palace are enormously decorated with the gold threads, which is the highlight of the Palacio de Bolsa’s exhibition hall.

这两天几次经过一个雕刻塑像，我记下了她的位置。下午特地过来看。原来这里是波尔图区的司法法院，门前的塑像名为正义雕像。

I passed by a sculpture several times in the past two days. I noted down its location and came to see it in the afternoon. The location turned out to be the Porto District Court of Justice, and the statue in front of the door is the Statue of Justice.

司法部里正在举办“冲突的艺术“展览，可以免费参观。法院毕竟不是展览馆，进去安检要严格得多了。

The Ministry of Justice was holding an "Art of Conflict" exhibition, which was free to visit. After all, the Ministry of Justice is not a public area, and the security check is much more stricter.

“那些不知不觉中正在拯救世界的人“

“Those who are saving the world without knowing it”

正义者, 作者：霍尔格·路易斯·博尔赫斯

一个按照伏尔泰的意愿耕种花园的人。
一个感谢音乐存在的人。
一个乐于追溯词源的人。
两个工人在南方的一家咖啡馆里默默地下棋。
一个陶瓷工在思考一种颜色和一种形式。
一个印刷工把这页排版得很好，尽管他可能自己不喜欢。
一个女人和一个男人，读着某个篇章的最后三行诗。
一个抚摸着一只熟睡动物的人。
一个为对他犯下的过错辩解,或希望的人。
一个感谢史蒂文森的存在的人。
一个希望别人是对的的人。
这些人不知不觉地在拯救世界。

The JUST by Horge Luis Borges

A man who cultivates his garden, as Voltaire wished.
He who is grateful for the existence of music.
He who takes pleasure in tracing an etymology.
Two workmen playing, in a cafe in the South, a silent game of chess.
The potter, contemplating a color and a form.
The typographer who sets this page well, though it may not please him.
A woman and a man, who read the last tercets of a certain canto.
He who strokes a sleeping animal.
He who justifies, or wishes to, a wrong done to him.
He who is grateful for the existence of Stevenson.
He who prefers others to be right.
These people, unaware, are saving the world.

冲突博物馆

“一次独特的体验，旨在挑战社会与冲突的关系以及解决冲突的法律体系。

要告知...
冲突如何成为社会生活中不可避免的因素，当它发生时，以及各种解决机制。

要质疑...
对法律体系及其参与者的看法。

要转变…
在社会与法律体系之间，增强人们对司法体系的信任。”

Museum of Conflict
A unique experience designed to challenge society's relationship with conflict and the legal system that exists to solve it.

To inform...
on how conflict is an unavoidable element of the life in society, when it occurs, and the various solution mechanisms.

To question...
the perception of what is the legal system and its actors.

To transform...
between the society and its legal systems, promoting trust in the judicial system.

在戈麦斯·特谢拉广场上，有两座教堂紧挨着，左边是 17 世纪的加尔默罗会教堂，右边是卡尔莫教堂。两座教堂之间是波尔图最小的房子，宽度只有一米多。这座小而窄的房子之所以建造，是因为人们过去常说教堂不应该是邻居。

In the Gomes Teixeira Square, there are two churches next to each other, the 17th century Carmelite Church on the left and the Carmo Church on the right. Between the two churches is the smallest house in Porto, with a width of just over one meter. This small and narrow house was built because people used to say that churches should not be neighbours.

波尔图大学
University of Porto

在波尔图大学的图书馆里有几个图片展。

其中一个主题为“穿过陌生的天空”，纪念两名葡萄牙飞行员一次空中探险100周年的图片吸引了我。

“一次穿越奇异天空的旅程
对于飞行员来说，没有国界。我们的世界就是天空。牺牲精神高于一切情感。一项航空壮举，无论探险者来自哪个国家，总会在那些懂得飞行的大家庭中激起兴奋之情。”

There were several photo exhibitions in the library of the University of Porto.

 
One of them, titled "Through strange skies", attracted my attention with the pictures commemorating the 100th anniversary of an aerial expedition by two Portuguese pilots.

“A journey through the strange sky
For aviators there are no borders. Our world is the sky. The spirit of sacrifice prevails above all other feelings, and an aeronautical feat, whatever the nationality of those who perform it, always makes the large family of those who know what to fly vibrate.”

当年报纸标题：”返回的飞行员：对未来的兴奋和信心“。作为一个经常坐飞机的我被他们的英雄壮举而震撼：

一百年前，在1924 年4月7日由两名葡萄牙飞行员萨尔门托·德·贝雷斯和布里托·派斯首次从葡萄牙空中穿越经欧洲、北非洲和亚洲历时了两个月十三天，经过23个地方的起降，完成了 16,760 公里（10,414 英里）行程，于6月20日到达澳门。总共飞行了 117 小时、41 分钟。这是一个以生死搏斗完成的空中探险故事。飞行员用肉眼识别飞行航向，把看到的地方与仍然不完整和有缺陷的地图上的标记进行比较。当飞机前方突然出现地图上没有提及的山脉时，他们迅速改变飞机航线，在大气涡旋的气流中不受控制地升起，在巨大气流下突然颠簸下降，或者在没有机场的地方紧急迫降。这是第一次重大的国际飞行旅程，这次探险成为未来环球飞行的先河。二位飞行员他们因此被誉为葡萄牙的民族英雄。

Newspaper headline at the time:
"Returning pilots: Excitement and confidence in the future." As a frequent flyer, I was struck by their heroic stories:

One hundred years ago, on April 7, 1924, two Portuguese pilots, Sarmento de Beires and Brito Pais, flew from Portugal for the first time through Europe, North Africa, and Asia. It took two months and thirteen days, with stopovers in 23 places, to complete a journey of 16,760 kilometres (10,414 miles), arriving in Macau on June 20. The total flight time was 117 hours and 41 minutes. It is a story of an aerial adventure completed with a life-and-death struggle. The pilots identified their orientation with their naked eyes, comparing the places they saw with the markings on the still incomplete and flawed maps. When a mountain range that was not mentioned on the map suddenly appeared in front of the plane, they quickly changed the plane's route. Their plane rose uncontrollably in the air currents of the atmospheric vortex, suddenly descended in the turbulent under the huge air currents, or made an emergency landing in a place without an airport. This was the first major international flight journey and became a precedent for future round-the-world flights. They were hailed as national heroes in Portugal.
另一个画展，“惊愕“

“选择、品味、语言与收藏行为直接相关。这些与好奇心、知识、不安、直觉等联系在一起。“

Another exhibition, Surprise (Espanto)

“Choice, taste, language are directly related to the act of collecting. These are linked to curiosity, knowledge, restlessness, intuition, etc.”

索亚雷斯多斯雷斯国家博物馆已有两百多年历史，是葡萄牙最古老的公共博物馆，也是波尔图最著名的博物馆。博物馆的藏品包括版画、古董、陶瓷和玻璃制品。

The Soares dos Reis National Museum is more than 200 years old. It is the oldest public museum in Portugal and the most famous museum in Porto. The museum's collection features include prints, antiques, ceramics and glassware.

博物馆其中一些最宏伟的作品是由 1847 年出生的葡萄牙雕塑家安东尼奥·索亚雷斯·多斯·雷斯创作的。博物馆在获得他的作品时以这位艺术家的名字命名。

Some of the most majestic works were created by Antonio Soares dos Reis, a Portuguese sculptor born in 1847. The museum was named after the artist when it acquired his work.

明天将去波尔图南面50公里的阿威罗一日游。

Tomorrow’s schedule would be a day trip to Aveiro, a small city 50 kilometres south of Porto.