葡萄牙 吉马良斯, Portugal Guimarães, June 16, 2024

劳伦斯

吉马良斯

葡萄牙

城堡

纪念碑

布拉加

阿方索

巴士

广场

恩里克

玛多

吉马良斯是葡萄牙北部的一座城市。 它以保存完好中世纪的建筑而闻名。吉马良斯地处布拉加东南面的25公里。有来往的城际巴士可以到达。今天就坐巴士去吉马良斯一日游。

Guimarães is a city in northern Portugal. It is famous for its well-preserved medieval architecture. Guimarães is located 25 kilometres southeast of Braga. There are intercity buses between the two cities. Today I would take a day trip Guimarães.

酒店前台的人告诉我巴士站就在酒店的对面。我到了对面马路看不到哪里有巴士站的标记。布拉加的长途汽车站离开酒店步行要20分钟。干脆还是步行去长途汽车站吧。走到了巴士站我发现开车的时间比较网上的时间早了。还好我是早到了10分钟，正好赶上马上要出发的下一班巴士。巴士一出站就上了高速公路。我暗自庆幸自己的直觉，没有听从酒店的人在酒店的对面等侯，不然，今天就去不成了。这20分钟的步行太值了。

The person at the hotel front desk told me that the bus stop was at the street across the hotel. When I got there, I didn’t see any sign of the bus stop. Braga's bus terminal is a 20-minute walk from the hotel. I might as well walk to the bus terminal. Aftr I arrived at the bus station, I found that the bus schedule was earlier than the information online. Fortunately, I arrived 10 minutes early and just caught the next bus departing for Guimarães. The bus got onto the highway as soon as it left the station. It was right that I listened to my intuition, otherwise I would still wait near the hotel and wouldn't be able to visit Guimarães today. The 20-minute walking was well worth it.

吉马良斯是一座小城，2023年的人口才刚过四万。葡萄牙第一位国王阿方索·恩里克斯就是在吉马良斯出生的。曾经发生在附近的圣马梅德之战被称为是葡萄牙之战，是葡萄牙王国建国历史过程中的重大事件。因此吉马良斯通常还被称为“葡萄牙的诞生地”或“摇篮城市”。

Guimarães is a small city with a population of just over 40,000 in 2023. The first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, was born in Guimarães. The battle of São Mamede, which took place nearby, is called the Portuguese Battle. It is a major event in the history of the founding of the Kingdom of Portugal. Therefore, Guimarães is often called the "Birthplace of Portugal" or the "Cradle City" (Cidade Berço in Portuguese).

市中心的奥利维拉广场是老吉马良斯的历史中心。以广场中的老橄榄树命名，中世纪时期就有人在此定居。这里有许多著名的建筑见证了历史的演变，至今都被完好地保存了下来。

The Oliveira Square, Largo da Oliveira, named after the old olive tree in the square, is the historical center of Old Guimarães. There were people settlement here since the Middle Ages. Many famous buildings in the square that had witnessed the evolution of history, have been well preserved to this day.

广场上“萨拉多纪念碑”。是一座国家纪念碑，纪念1340年萨拉多战役的胜利。在这场战役中，卡斯蒂利亚人和葡萄牙基督教联军打败了北非穆斯林的马林尼德人。这是后者入侵伊比利亚半岛的最后一次尝试。

在广场上我最初找不到这个纪念碑，因为我想象中是一个高大的石碑。几个圈转下来发现这个亭子的位置就应该是这个纪念碑。前面介绍的牌上有说明，萨拉多纪念碑树立在亭子里，十字架在顶部。

The Padrão do Salado in the square, is a national monument commemorating the victory of the Battle of Salado in 1340. In this battle, the allied Castilian and Portuguese Christian coalition defeated the Muslim Marinids from North Africa. This was the latter's last attempt to invade the Iberian Peninsula.

Initially I couldn't find the monument, because I imagined it to be a tall stone monument. After circled the square a few times, I found that the location of the pavilion should be the monument. A signage in the front, explained that the Salado Monument was erected in a pavilion with a cross on the top.

位于广场上的奥利维拉圣母学院教堂。曾经是阿方索·恩里克斯于 12 世纪创建的修道院。

The Collegiate Church of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira in the square, was once a convent founded by Afonso Henriques in the 12th century.

奥利维拉圣母学院教堂里面有珍贵的阿尔贝托·桑帕约博物馆 。博物馆成立于1928年，它有14至 16 世纪时期2000多件的珍贵宗教艺术藏品，其中包括一件罕见的国王约翰一世使用过的背心。遗憾的是博物馆正在装修没有机会进去参观。

The Collegiate Church of Our Lady of Oliveira houses the valuable Alberto Sampaio Museum. Founded in 1928, it contains a rich collection of more than 2,000 pieces of religious art from the 14th to the 16th centuries, including a rare vest used by King John I. Unfortunately, the museum was closed during the renovation.

圣克拉拉修道院建于1548 年, 一直由修女居住，里面有美丽的回廊和花园。1968 年，它被征收指定为吉马良斯市政厅，还设立有市政档案馆。周日对公众开放可以免费参观，今天刚好是周末它关闭休息。

The former Convent of Santa Clara was built in 1548 and inhabited by nuns. It hides beautiful cloisters and gardens. In 1968, it was designated as the Guimarães City Hall and also houses the Municipal Archives. It is free to visit on the weekdays, but closed today over the weekend.

花岗岩外墙上镶嵌着圣克拉拉细致精美的雕塑。

The Baroque granite exterior is inlaid with intricate sculptures of Santa Clara.

布拉干萨公爵宫建于 1420 年至 1422 年之间，为巴塞罗斯伯爵阿方索而建造。他是葡萄牙国王若昂一世的私生子，后来赋予为布拉干萨公爵。宫殿内设有博物馆；二楼是共和国总统官邸。这座宏伟的中世纪建筑散发着独特的吉马良斯精神。如今，布拉干萨公爵宫被列为国家纪念碑。

The Palace of the Dukes of Bragança was built between 1420 and 1422 for Afonso, Count of Barcelos, the bastard son of King João I of Portugal, and the Duke of Bragança. The palace houses a museum and the first floor is the official residence of the President of the Republic. This magnificent medieval building exudes the unique spirit of Guimarães. Today, the Palace is classified as a National Monument.

吉马良斯城堡。这座城堡建于 10 世纪，由 穆玛多娜·迪亚斯伯爵夫人下令修建。她修建城堡的目的是保卫城市免受穆斯林的侵扰。穆玛多娜·迪亚斯伯爵夫人被誉为伊比利亚半岛西北部最有权势的女性之一。这座城堡最初的名字由穆玛多娜·迪亚斯伯爵夫人命名为“圣马梅德城堡”。

第一任国王阿方索·恩里克斯就出生在这座城堡里，因此许多人将其视为国家圣地。每年会在这里举行庆祝国王生日的弥撒。

Guimarães Castle. This castle was built in the 10th century on the orders of Countess Mumadona Dias, with the purpose was to defend the city from Muslim invasions. Countess Mumadona Dias was known as one of the most powerful women in the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula, and the castle was originally named "Castle of São Mamede", also by Countess Mumadona Dias.

The first king, Afonso Henriques, was born in this castle, so people consider it a national shrine. Mass in honour of the King’s birthday is still celebrated here every year.

这座城堡保存完好，是葡萄牙的历史象征。它已被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。我沿着狭窄的台阶爬到塔顶，观赏城市的壮丽景色。

This well-preserved castle is a symbol of Portugal's history. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I climbed the narrow steps to the top and was rewarded by a stunning view of the city.

何塞·吉马良斯国际艺术中心正举办纪念出生在该市著名艺术家的作品回顾展。

The José Guimarães International Art Centre is hosting a retrospective of the work of famous artists who was born in the city.

何塞·吉马良斯国际艺术中心 (CIAJG) 将何塞·吉马良斯五十年来收藏的三部分的藏品：非洲部落艺术、前哥伦布时期艺术（墨西哥、秘鲁、危地马拉和哥斯达黎加）和中国古代艺术，与艺术家本人的作品和其他当代艺术家的作品以及民间、宗教和考古遗产相结合，形成为一条精神和象征性的路线，描绘出一条地理和时间的弧线。从他的家乡吉马良斯开始，跨越三大洲的文明，丰富而复杂的文化，最后再回到他的出生地吉马良斯。整个展览提供了对一种多样性思考而构成的特性形式。CIAJG 就像一张地图集，把来自遥远文化的物品、图像和想法建立起之间的关联。

The José Guimarães International Art Center (CIAJG) combines the works from three collections that José Guimarães has collected over five decades: the African Tribal Art, the Pre-Columbian Art (Mexico, Peru, Guatemala and Costa Rica) and the Ancient Chinese Art, with the artist's own works and those of other contemporary artists, as well as folk, religious and archaeological heritage, to form a spiritual and symbolic route that charts a geographical and temporal arc. The display begins in his hometown of Guimarães, crosses three continents of civilizations, rich and complex cultures, and ends with his birthplace. The entire exhibition offers a form of identity that is constituted by a reflection on diversity. CIAJG is like an atlas that establishes connections between objects, images and ideas from distant cultures.

吉马良斯长途车站上面是一个大型的商场。我在美食广场点了煎鲷鱼和南瓜汤。

There is a big shopping mall above the bus terminal. In the food court I ordered a fried sea bream and a bowl of pumpkin soup for lunch.


回到布拉加已经是傍晚时分。布拉加的人们穿着古老的民族服装，兴高采烈地唱歌跳舞，庆祝为期11天的圣约翰节。今天还正值星期天，街上更是人头攒动更加热闹非凡。圣若昂游行队伍喧闹的打鼓，草药运输、大卫王之舞，和牧羊人之车的表演更是吸引了大批人观看。

It was already evening when I returned to Braga. The people of Braga wore ancient national costumes, sang and danced enthusiastically to celebrate the 11-day St. John Festival. Today was Sunday and the streets were filled with more people and even more lively. The noisy percussion instruments, the herb transportation, the King David dance, and the shepherd's chariot performances from the São João procession, attracted a large number of people to watch.