<p class="ql-block">After writing the title of this travelogue, when I put the cover image, I fell into the difficulty of choosing, because there are so many beautiful photos, and none of them can represent all of Alaska ! </p> <p class="ql-block">In my imagination, Alaska is cold and snowy, and you can go anywhere with a dog cart, and in there, you must wear the thickest down jacket and pants, and snow boots. </p><p class="ql-block">Fortunately, I did my homework in advance and didn't bring a thick down jacket.</p> Because it"s warm then. Norwegian Cruise, the ship went to Alaska in Vancouver, We will board on August 19 afternoon. <p class="ql-block">So, what do we do in the morning of the 19th? my friend Jun arranged to go to the Vancouver's famous nudist beach, Wreck Beach.</p> Do not take pictures of others↓ Only to take pictures of ourselves😀↓ <p class="ql-block">We had 8 days in Cruise. </p><p class="ql-block">This image is an overview of the trip.↓</p> On August 20th, we ate, drank and had fun on board. On August 21st, we landed in Ketchikan.<br><br> <p class="ql-block">We had a watching whale tour.</p> <p class="ql-block">We walk around the Ketchkan downtown. </p> <p class="ql-block">Ketchikan is the southernmost city in Alaska, from today , we will get colder deep every day, which means that the autumn colors are getting more and more beautiful!</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block"> Ketchikan is most famous for its salmon migration.</p> This river is the Ketchikan Creek, a channel where salmon migrate and spawn. Salmon swim against the current <p class="ql-block">Took photos of the sunset in the room on the ship. </p> On August 22, landed in Juneau, the capital of Alaska.<br><br> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">The main purpose of Juneau is to see the Mendenhall Glacier and the salmon's dying of giving birth.</p> Arrive at the gate of Mendenhall Glacier，we shaw the salmon spawning and dying. <div><br></div> Every day the staff keeps notes. This picture shows how the salmon food comes from. <div>Mendenhall Glacier。</div><br> The glacier melts and flows into Mendenhall Lake.<div><br></div> <p class="ql-block">From ship, looked out at the beautiful harbor.</p> <p class="ql-block">On August 23rd, landed in Skagway.</p><p class="ql-block">we had the Best of Skagway & White Pass Railway Tour，It took 6 hours, bus first and then train.</p> Today's map. <p class="ql-block">The bus stopped at any good view.</p> Enjoy the silence. <p class="ql-block">Get off the bus and transfer to the sightseeing train, all the way to the top of the White Pass mountain, there is no chance to get off.</p> After getting off the train to a small village for lunch. Grilled salmon <br><div>On August 24th, landed in Hoonah</div> We enjoyed the ZIPLINE。 Here are 3 of us😩 It's down the hill in 90 seconds, but it's really fun and exciting. A trail to Hoonah Downtown，beautiful。 City Hall. <p class="ql-block">On August 25th, without getting off the boat, the boat sailed to the Hubbard Glacier. </p><p class="ql-block">to see the glacier from the ship. </p> It was foggy Online pictures↓ The scenic around the glacier is very beautiful <p class="ql-block">On August 26th, ended the cruise and arrive at Homer. And from that day, We began drive trip. </p> Today's map. <p class="ql-block"><br></p> fishing boy His brother just get a fish ,dolly <p class="ql-block">Meet swans</p> On August 27th, drove to Anchorage.<br> <p class="ql-block">In Anchorage downtown</p><p class="ql-block">Captain Cook</p> <p class="ql-block">Lake Hood, a place for seaplanes. In Alaska, 10% of people have an airplane license.</p> Before taking off on the water Flying That afternoon，hiking in Eklutna Lake park。 We saw the introduction of what fish eat in Alaska again. <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">I felt the light autumn that day.</p> <p class="ql-block">August 28, drove to Talkeetna </p><p class="ql-block">Take a helicopter to see the Denali. </p> Talkeetna town, very small A museum. <p class="ql-block">I saw that the Climbers from all over the world who get to the top of the Denali , they will hang a small national flag in this small museum, sign their names, and there are about nearly 100 national flags.</p> <p class="ql-block">I wanted to find a China flag. I got it. The climber is Wang Shi（王石），a famouse guy in China. He is the boss of Wanke Real Estate Company. When he got to the top of the Denali ,he was 51 years old.👍👍👍</p> boarding pass The tour included glacier landing walk.,but due to weather conditions it was canceled ice cave <p class="ql-block">on the way to the hotel. </p> The hotel is a lodge near Denali National Park, which is a loft. There is a beautiful creek next to my lodge. reception desk <p class="ql-block">August 29, Denali National Park,</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">One day I was shocked by the beautiful scenery!</p> The map of Denali National Park，the red line is our drive line, and the grey is not allowed drive，we must take the bus on the grey line.是我们今天汽车要走的线路，灰色线路不允许自驾车开往，必须报公园的tour才能进入，而且每年开放的公里数也不一样，今年公园的车最远能到达53迈处，前两年都还能更远一些，今年不行，不知道什么原因。 That morning drove in the park, and took a trail. That trail along the river. <p class="ql-block">It's so beautiful ！</p><p class="ql-block">The nature colors means late autumn!</p> <p class="ql-block">Saw The Denali in the bus. </p> <div><br></div> <p class="ql-block">In the bus, I kept taking photos useing my cell phone in the aisle seat, and after the first stop, one guy gave me the window seat👍👏 </p><p class="ql-block">Look at this beauty!</p> <p class="ql-block">There are many moose in park.</p> Another one <p class="ql-block">This is the scenery that I was shocked again after the Torres del Paine National Park and Antarctica! </p> <p class="ql-block">A female grouse</p> With a double rainbow 🌈we ended today's trip <p class="ql-block">We Stayed in a youth hostel at night in Fairbank, the owner is an old lady, my friends DJ and LF are living in a large open room, just like a dormitory, people who live here are cooking by themselves, there are many young people from different countries , chatting and cooking together, very interesting.</p> <p class="ql-block">Staying here is to see the aurora in the middle of the night, but we didn't see the aurora at that night. </p> <p class="ql-block">August 30th, Schedule: Dalton Highway, </p><p class="ql-block">Arctic Circle</p> <p class="ql-block">Actually, the car broke down😭</p><p class="ql-block">There is no cellphone signal there. </p><p class="ql-block">There are very few cars on the road, finally came 2 cars, we stopped it, at the beginning they did not stop, drove more than 50 meters, that 2 cars turned around and came back, they were together 6 young people, did not stop at the beginning because the speed was too fast!</p><p class="ql-block"> They were very nice. </p><p class="ql-block">Luckily, the young people had a satellite phone, but the satellite phone could only send text messages, and they sent it to their friends, who called the car rental company and replied that the car rental company said they knew. And their friend also sent our location to the car rental company, and we had to wait for the car rental company to come to pick us up.</p> Took a photo together. <p class="ql-block">Wait, wait, wait, there is no news, there is no signal. </p><p class="ql-block">In the end, everyone decided to stop another car, in order to take two of us and go to a place with a cellphone signal.</p> We stoped another car. It's a police car。 <p class="ql-block">After explaining the situation to the police, the police said that he could take one person to a nearby road maintenance station for further contact. However, he can only take one person.</p> <p class="ql-block">My friend Jun went with him. </p> It was nearly 2 hours or so of waiting <p class="ql-block">At 17:06PM，The police car came back。</p><p class="ql-block">At the maintenance station, Jun called a towing company and also told the location, and they asked us to wait at the maintenance station.</p><p class="ql-block">结果不理想！手掌到了那个公路养护站，只有有线电话可以用，那里也没有信号，打通了租车公司电话，租车公司说不管，原因是手掌没有在他们公司买保险！但是承诺明天过来换一辆车。没办法，又给她自己的保险公司打电话，联系非常费劲，又慢，最后联系了一家拖车公司，对方答应19点左右到达公路养护站接我们并且拖车！</p><p class="ql-block">警察非常好，把手掌送回来，又开路开着我们和破车后一起到了公路养护站，破车小心翼翼的开，因路程短，没感觉有太大问题。</p><p class="ql-block">到了公路养护站，警察离开了，站里有一个老头在值班，而且还快下班了。</p><p class="ql-block">没有手机信号，没有网络，那真叫叫天天不应，叫地地不灵啊！被动回到了没有通讯网络的时代！</p> <p class="ql-block">Before the maintenance station get off work, we used his computer with Internet access to book the hotel , otherwise we will be no place to stay at night!</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">赶紧在老头下班前，用他有网的电脑把晚上返回fairbanks的酒店订了才是最要紧的事，要不然晚上回去没地方住了！</p><p class="ql-block">而下一站酒店还不给退钱！</p> <p class="ql-block">Wait in the station, wait, wait, wait, it's 19:30, and the trailer hasn't come yet.</p><p class="ql-block">在站里等啊，等啊，19：30了，拖车还没来。老头早就下班，来了新的值班人员，我和手掌又敲开值班人员的办公室，借用电话给拖车公司打，没人接！心里没底。</p><p class="ql-block">值班人员说，下午就在路边看到我们了😭，知道我们车抛锚了，一不留神在当地成了名人！</p> <div>Wait until around 19:50PM, everyone made a decision together, use this broken car to drive back slowly!</div>我把养护站附近把那里都拍遍了。<div>等到19:50左右，大家共同做了个决定，要不然用这辆破车慢速往回开？这拖车公司也不来了吧？</div> <p class="ql-block">On the way back, after 30 minutes, and on a very muddy road, we saw the towing car on the opposite side.</p><p class="ql-block">Press the car horn and shouting, it's useless, they can't hear us. so we missed it! </p><p class="ql-block">往回开的路上，也就30分钟左右，在一段非常泥泞的路上，非常滑，居然看到了对面来的拖车和接人的van！！！按喇叭，喊叫，都没用，对方听不到，就这样华丽丽的错过了！今天咋这么衰？好巧不巧，车又冒烟了！</p> <p class="ql-block">Stop on the side of the road and wait again!</p><p class="ql-block">We thought the towing car arrives and can't find us, they'll come back!</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">路边停下来，等拖车到了找不到我们就会返回来！等着吧，</p><p class="ql-block">等啊等，等不到！LF就截了一辆车搭车养护站去找。剩余我们6个等啊等，又等了很久，拖车返回来了，没看见LF。我们几个跟不要命似的挥手拦车！！！没一会儿，LF也回来了，终于会师了！司机下车，很不高兴，说到了养护站没有我们，又去了我们开始抛锚的地方，还是没有，感觉被放鸽子了！</p> <p class="ql-block">Finally the towing car came</p><p class="ql-block">开始拖车了，见到希望了</p> <div>So tired.</div>我们几个坐上一辆非常破的van，累的东倒西歪。 <div>Arrived at the hotel in the middle of that night.</div>入住酒店时，半夜12点多了！这1天！那个不负责任的租车公司！ <p class="ql-block">On August 31st, the rental company changed car and we continued the route of yesterday's map, but it had to return to Fairbanks on the same day</p><p class="ql-block">8月31号，租车公司换车，继续昨天的地图线路，只是当天必须返回Fairbanks，延续行程中的下一个酒店。</p> <p class="ql-block">The towing cost was $2,200.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">新车换回来，手掌、DJ、LF起大早换的，辛苦了！</p><p class="ql-block">发现，车里多一个备胎，后来才知道，去道顿公路必须2个备胎，而且别租车公司的车都不允许上那条公路，租价还高，租车公司居然没有给我们配好备胎，这个把柄被手掌抓着，后期得以租车公司赔了我们拖车费用2200美元。</p> 今天开到这个地方，才是正式上了道顿公路。距离昨天抛锚的地方1迈😭 <div>Our new car</div><div><br></div>新换的车，底盘上是原车带的备胎，后备箱又给配了一个备胎。 <div>The location where we were in trouble yesterday.</div>昨天被困在这里一整天都没有想着在地图上定个位留个纪念，还好今天想起来了，Livengood ！ <div>The name of the Dalton Highway is a highway named after James W. Dalton.</div><div>道顿公路的名字是用James W.Dalton名字命名的一条公路。</div><div>他1937年毕业于阿拉斯加大学矿业学院采矿工程专业。在阿拉斯加北部和亚北极采矿和建筑领域工作了六年后，于 1943 年加入美国海军海蜂队，寻求在北极阿拉斯加担任巡逻预备队的职务。1946 年，作为一名民用工程师，道顿加入了海军的阿拉斯加石油勘探项目，并一直工作到项目完成。道顿对没有道路的北坡、难以进入的北冰洋、该地区的资源、艰巨的挑战的了解 - 这些知识在 20 世纪 60 年代帮助阿拉斯加州官员选择了已被证明是宝贵的石油生产资源的州土地。</div> 道顿公路人迹罕至，景色旷视无敌，道路维护频率估计不高，所以这条道路阿拉斯加法律不允许很多车在上面行驶，Alaska Auto Rental公司是唯一一家有可以上道顿公路的车出租，等于他们垄断，也就可以不负责任吧。<div>但在我看来，这条公路没什么啊，呼伦贝尔为了深度游，公路都是这样！</div> <div>Crude oil pipelines。</div><div>阿拉斯加除了金矿，银块、铜矿，还以原油管道而著名，采自北冰洋的石油，经这条管道向往输送。下图中有石油管道。</div><div>阿拉斯加原油管道是世界上第一条从北极地区外输的原油管道。从美国阿拉斯加北坡的普鲁德霍湾油区起，纵贯整个阿拉斯加地区，翻过髙1463m的布鲁克斯山脉，到达该区南海岸的瓦尔迪兹港。全长1277km,管径为1220mm。管道经过地区的最低气温-57，经过700km的永冻土地带，其中680km架空敷设，用厚lOOnim的隔热层保温。全线共设11个中间泵站，总装机功率近4780000kW,设计输油能力1亿米3/年。规划设计、施工历时9年,耗资近80亿美元，1977年7月一期工程投产。<br></div> <p class="ql-block">There are also gold, silver, copper, and oil in Alaska, which the United States bought from Russia for only $7.2 million in 1867.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">插一段我感兴趣的历史故事：</p><p class="ql-block">又有金矿、银矿、铜矿，还有石油的阿拉斯加，美国是如何以700万美元及20万美元手续费从俄罗斯手里买走了呢？</p> <div>以下内容是我百度来的：</div>1742年航海家维塔斯·白令随同俄罗斯海军在北极地区进行了一次探险，他们沿着俄罗斯西伯利亚北部海岸线一直航向到了北美洲阿拉斯加地区，并发现了阿拉斯加的阿留申群岛、科曼多尔群岛和白令岛。1784年，俄罗斯人在科迪亚克岛的三圣徒湾建立了他们的首个殖民地。<div>由于人烟稀少，多年来阿拉斯加没有为俄国带来任何贡献，反倒增加驻军经费。1853年到1856年，沙俄在克里米亚战争中被英国和法国联军击败，国库空虚；另一方面，由于英国进一步加强在北美殖民地的发展，特别是在西部的英属哥伦比亚，令俄国担心日后最终会战败而失去这个易攻难守的阿拉斯加。俄国希望拉拢美国以牵制日渐强大的英国的扩张。因此俄国于1859年首次向美国提议卖出阿拉斯加，以图制衡英国。<br></div><div><br></div> 1859年俄国首次接触美国希望出售阿拉斯加，由于美国正值发生南北战争，因此计划告吹。后来美国北方的林肯政府胜出，沙皇亚历山大二世指示时任首相再就阿拉斯加的买卖和美国国务卿威廉·西华德谈判。谈判由1867年3月初开始，并最终于1867年3月30日凌晨四时成交。图中左二坐者为西华德，当时许多美国人并不认同这桩买卖，揶揄阿拉斯加为“西华德家的大冰箱”。<div><br></div> 俄美双方最终以700万美元加20万美元手续费成交，平均每英亩土块仅值两美分。而买卖的条约亦在1867年4月9日在美国参议院以37票支持，2票反对的情况下获得通过 言归正传，继续我们的旅程。 今天的行程中，道顿公路上只有到了这里才有加油的地方。 <p class="ql-block">由于把2天的行程压缩到了一天，所以，道顿公路再美，我们也不被DJ允许停车拍景，必须全队服从命令，一路向北，终于在下午15点多抵达北极圈！</p><p class="ql-block">继2022年进入南极圈后，今天，我又进入了北极圈！</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">After entering the Antarctic Circle in 2022, today, I am in the Arctic Circle !</p> 进入北极圈是个象征意义，非常遗憾没有再加1天继续北上前往deadhorse，那样就抵达北冰洋了。 <p class="ql-block">刚到北极圈标志，就看见一个导游带领他的团队进行入圈仪式，他还带了一块红毯让仪式更庄重。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">A tour guide leading his team to the circle ceremony, he also brought a red carpet to make the ceremony more solemn.</p> 受到启发的我们也借用他的红毯如法炮制了一下。<div><br></div><div>It's me😝</div> <p class="ql-block">没有时间停留太久，必须尽早回返。</p><p class="ql-block">无独有偶，今天又是人品爆棚的一天，在一天的收官之际，老天又给了一道美丽的彩虹🌈</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">On the way back to hotel, another rainbow。</p> <div>晚上入住切纳温泉度假村Chena Hot Springs Resort，是为了泡温泉，但是当晚太累，根本没有泡温泉的欲望。结果晚上发现房间里没有洗澡水，真是服了，不泡都不行！</div> <p class="ql-block">On September 1st, the end of the trip, we walked the trail near the spa hotel, walked around the city of Fairbanks, and flew back to Minneapolis in the evening.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">9月1号，旅行结束日，温泉酒店附近走trail，Fairbanks城市转转，晚上飞回明尼艾普利斯。</p> 酒店周边风景宜人<div><br></div><div>Around the spa hotel.</div> 走了大概近2个小时的trail，开车前往Fairbanks Downtown。 城市不大，干净舒服 <p class="ql-block">最后，去看了圣诞老人，据说他出生在这里。反正在北极的地方都说自己的家乡是圣诞老人出生的地方，比如挪威。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Finally, we went to see Santa Claus, who is said born here.</p> 美国人都带小孩子来这里购买礼物。<div><br></div><div>Gift house.</div> <p class="ql-block">到此，所以旅程结束，DJ和LF去还车，返回机场后，我们席地而坐，打牌😛直至登机。最后在明尼艾普利斯挥手告别，他们回弗吉尼亚和马里兰，我回罗杰斯特。</p> <p class="ql-block">番外：</p><p class="ql-block">回家后经手掌的努力，跟租车公司发邮件据理力争，租车公司将我们的拖车费用2200美元承担了🌷</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">Extra:</p><p class="ql-block">After returning home, after working hard and sending an email to the car rental company, the car rental company covered the cost of our towing car 2,200 US dollars.</p>