葡萄牙 布拉加, Portugal Braga, June 15-18 2024

劳伦斯

布拉加是葡萄牙最北部也是最古老的一座城市。它的原名是布拉卡拉奥古斯塔，由罗马人于公元前 16 年建立！ 布拉加虽然不大，但因其30多座教堂而被誉为“葡萄牙的罗马”。布拉加也是圣詹姆斯朝圣之路--葡萄牙路线上的重要一站。

Braga is the northernmost and the oldest city in Portugal. Its original name was Bracara Augusta, and it was founded by the Romans in 16 BC! Although Braga is not big, it is known as the "Rome of Portugal" because of its more than 30 churches. Braga is also an important stop on the Camino de Santiago - the Portuguese route.

乘坐火车的车速并不快，但是车身不停地摇晃。二小时后我到了布拉加。

The train ride was not very fast, but kept shaking. I arrived in Braga in two hours.

下午茶在街边一个面包店，我要了咖啡，还随便挑了一块点心。点心太甜，只吃了三分子一就离开了。

I had my afternoon tea at a bakery on the street. I ordered a cup of coffee and a dessert. The dessert was too sweet, so I ate one-third of it and left.

餐厅晚上营业时间最早的是七点半开始，而且离开酒店有点距离。酒店附近有一家快餐店正在营业，名字叫“美味的弗朗西斯“。弗朗西斯是葡萄牙北部地区的典型美食。是一种烤奶酪三明治，里面塞满了多层肉。

The restaurants dinner time started at 7:30, and were also a little far from the hotel. I found a fast-food restaurant near the hotel, called "Manjar das Franesinhas". Franesinha is a typical delicacy in the northern region of Portugal. It is a grilled cheese sandwich stuffed with layers of meat.

我点了店里特色弗朗西斯三明治，配米饭。

三明治上覆盖着“特色酱汁”，“应该怎么个吃法？”我在研究。我干脆拨开了酱汁一层一层地吃：先看到的是一个太阳蛋，接着是烤奶酪，猪肉块、二种火腿，意大利肠片，一小块薄牛排，最后才是面包土司。一大碗的米饭拌有柠檬汁，在炎热的气温里吃点酸酸咸咸很开胃。还搭配了清凉的啤酒，很不错！

I ordered the restaurant's specialty, the Francis sandwich, which came with rice.

The sandwich was covered with its "special sauce". "How do I eat it? " I tried to figure out. I spooned away the sauce and started to eat by layers: a sunny-side-up egg came first, then the grilled cheese, some pork cubes, two kinds of ham, e few Italian sausage slices, a small thin piece of steak, and finally, the toast. A large bowl of rice, seasoned with lemon juice, was very appetizing. Paired with a cool beer, it was a great meal in the hot summer weather!

仁慈耶稣圣殿是这座城市的主要景点，它位于圣山顶，有小径，缆车或者从楼梯上去。山顶上，教堂后面有一个美丽的公园，里面有几个小教堂、花坛、僻静的长凳和被植被包围的洞穴。

The main attraction of the city is the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which is located on the top of Monte Santo. It is reachable by a trail, the Bom Jesus funicular or walking up the stairs. At the top of the mountain, there is a beautiful park behind the church with several chapels, flower beds, secluded benches and caves surrounded by vegetation.

我乘坐巴士的来到了山顶。这样也好，先在山顶上参观，慢慢再走楼梯下山，省力。

The bus dropped me off at the top of the mountain. It was not bad; I could first visit the church and then slowly walk my way down the stairs.

我开始从楼梯下来。上山的楼梯有600 多级台阶，楼梯分为17层。每一层都有不同的喷泉，表现信仰、希望和慈善的美德。虽说爬上通往新古典主义风格教堂的台阶似乎是一种忏悔，因为每一层楼梯都非常漂亮，这也是许多人选择爬楼梯的重要原因之一。

I started to go down the stairs. The stairs have more than 600 steps and are divided into 17 levels. There are different fountains on each floor, showing the virtues of faith, hope and charity. Although climbing the steps leading to the neoclassical church seems like a penance, each level of the stairs is very beautiful, and is one of the important reasons why many visitors choose to climb the stairs.

回到市中心已经是中午，我进了一家叫Hibiscus素食店。这家店介绍每天营业前半小时都会在其脸书网站上公布当日的菜单。除了香料沙拉、烤面筋、印度豆腐等传统菜肴，不时有新品葡国的素食。

At noon, I went to a vegetarian restaurant in the city centre called Hibiscus. Every day, the daily menu is announced on its Facebook page half an hour before the opening. In addition to traditional dishes such as spice salad, grilled gluten, Indian tofu, etc., there are new and improved Portuguese vegetarian dishes from time to time.

布拉加正在举行圣约翰节，是当地古老、盛大的传统节日。街道上到处张灯结彩，街道边沿路摆着展览。

Braga was holding its St. John Festival, an ancient and grand traditional festival in the area. The streets were decorated with lights and there were exhibitions along the streets.

公理会大教堂是一座 18 世纪的葡萄牙巴洛克式大教堂。建筑师是出生于布拉加的安德烈·索亚雷斯。在18 世纪他在葡萄牙北部地区设计建造的很多教堂遗留至今。

The Basílica dos Congregados is an 18th century Portuguese Baroque cathedral. The architect was André Soares, who was born in Braga. In the 18th century he designed and built many churches in northern Portugal that still exist today.

位于共和国广场上的拉帕教堂是一座新古典主义教堂，建于 18 世纪中叶。教堂最显著的特征之一是反映当时艺术感的外墙，上面装饰着精雕细琢的花瓶。

The Church of Lapa is a neoclassical church, built in the mid-18th century, on Republic Square. One of the most notable features of the Church of Lapa is its façade, adorned with intricately carved vases. The façade's neoclassical design reflects the artistic sensibilities of the period.

米尼奥省大学

University of Minho

新拱门是布拉加城堡历史要塞的遗迹。是中世纪时期通往这座古老城市的西面大门。这是一座巴洛克和新古典主义风格的凯旋门。凯旋门顶部的人物是代表布拉干萨大主教的徽章。布拉在宣传推广活动中都使用了凯旋门的形象。这座新拱门也是由安德烈·索亚雷斯于 18 世纪末设计。

The Arch of the New is the western gate of a medieval city walls and is a remnant of the historical fortification of Braga Castle. It is a triumphal arch in Baroque and Neoclassical styles. The figure on top of the Arch represents the Bragança’s coat-of-arms. Braga uses the image of the Archway in its promotional activities. This Archway was also designed by Andrés Soares at the end of the 18th century.

科英布拉教堂是一座曼努埃尔式教堂。自 1910 年以来，它被列为国家纪念碑。

The Chapel of the Coimbras is a Manueline chapel. It has been classified as a National Monument since 1910.

拉约宫是一座巴洛克时期的住宅，也是葡萄牙建筑师安德烈·索亚雷斯设计的晚期巴洛克、早期洛可可装饰风格的典范而闻名。

The Palace of Raio is a Baroque era residence. It is an example of the late Baroque, early Rococo style of decoration by Portuguese architect André Soares, notable for his influence in the northern Baroque movement.

17 日早上下着雨。我乘坐公交车前往萨梅罗圣母圣殿。它位于布拉加郊外的萨梅罗山山顶上，公交车程预计要44分钟。

巴士沿着蜿蜒的道路向山顶驶去。车上只剩下我一个人。司机误以为我想去在圣山的仁慈耶稣朝圣地（也许那里是所有游客最喜欢的地方），示意我不要下车，然后往下开。我看着手机的地图觉得不对劲。他在半山把我放下，就开车下山了。这里是圣山的仁慈耶稣朝圣地，我两天前已经来过了。等下一班上山的巴士还要45 分钟。我查了地图，有一条一直向上的小路，步行时间需要40 分钟。不如就步行上山吧。

It was raining on the morning of the 17th. I took a city bus to the Santuário de Nossa Senhora do Sameiro. It is located on the top of the Sameiro Mountain outside Braga, and the bus journey would take about 44 minutes.
The bus drove up the winding road towards the top of the mountain. I was the only one left on the bus. The driver mistakenly thought that I wanted to go to the Basilica of Bom Jesus on Mount Santo (perhaps it is the favourite place of all tourists), so he motioned for me not to get off the bus and drove down. I looked at the map on my phone and felt something was wrong. He dropped me off halfway up the mountain and continued his way down the mountain. I recognized that I had been to this place two days ago. The next bus would take another 45 minutes to arrive. I found that there was a small path going straight up to the top of the Sameiro Mountain. I decided to walk up the mountain instead of waiting here for the next bus.

幸运的是雨停了，小路还是有点湿滑。我开始小心地慢慢地向上走，并不算太难。

Fortunately, the rain had stopped, but the path was still a little slippery. I slowly and carefully walked up the path, it was not too bad.

十分钟后，我注意到后面有一位女士也向上走。我们几乎是同时到达了山顶。她向我笑笑，大概表示我们都成功地走完了这一段湿滑的山路的意思。

After walking for ten minutes, I noticed a lady behind me also walking upwards. We reached the top of the mountain almost at the same time. She smiled at me, probably meaning that we both had successfully finished walking through this slippery mountain road.

迎接我们的是一个美丽的公园，一座宏伟的教堂。

We were greeted by a beautiful park and a magnificent church.

萨梅罗圣母圣殿是葡萄牙最受崇拜的圣母圣地之一，这里还有一个博物馆。每年都有许多信徒来到这里， 特别是在六月的的第一个星期天和八月的第三个星期天的朝圣期间。

The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro is one of the most worshipped shrines in Portugal and also houses a museum. Every year many devotees come here, especially at times of pilgrimage on the first Sunday of June and the third Sunday of August.

萨梅罗圣母圣殿位于萨梅罗山山顶，比布拉加市高出 350 多米，在这里俯瞰城市和米尼奥山谷的壮丽景色。感到之前爬山付出的辛苦完全值得。

The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro is located on top of Mount Sameiro, more than 350 meters above Braga, and offers a magnificent view of the city and the Minho Valley. I felt that the effort of climbing the mountain was well worth it.

当我参观完萨梅罗圣母圣殿的时候天又开始下雨了。这对我来说已经不再重要了。在半露天的巴士站我等了半个小时，然后坐公共汽车回到市中心。

It started to rain again when I finished visiting the Basilica of Our Lady of Sameiro. It didn't matter to me anymore. I waited for half an hour at the semi-open bus shelter, and then took a bus back to the city centre.

当我来到市政市场的时候，农产品，鱼类海鲜，肉类的摊档已经收了，有几个小饭店和咖啡面包店还在营业。在一个烤乳猪店前面有六位老太太刚买了烤乳猪三明治。我想要一盘烤乳猪来奖励自己早上付出的辛苦。女服务员没有注意到我指点的是乳猪盘，她还是给我做了三明治。也许，我是不应该吃得太多。

When I arrived at the Mercado Munnicipal, the stalls selling produce, fish, seafood, and meat had all closed, but a few small restaurants and bakery shops were still open. In front of a suckling pig shop, six old ladies bought suckling pig sandwiches. I wanted a plate of suckling pig meat to reward myself for the hard work in the morning. The waitress didn't notice that I pointed to the suckling pig plate, instead she also made a sandwich for me. Maybe it meant that I shouldn't eat too much.

乳猪，葡萄牙语中称为 leitão，是一道葡萄牙北部地区的菜肴。猪皮酥脆，肉质嫩滑。

不过这家快餐店的烤乳猪早就剪成小块，夹在三明治中的烤乳猪皮已经不再酥脆。大概是这个原因搭配了一包酥脆小薯片吧。我还是很享受品尝葡萄牙特色菜的乐趣。

Suckling pig, or leitão in Portuguese, is a dish from northern Portugal, known for its crispy skin and the delicate tender meat.

The suckling pig in this fast food restaurants had long been cut into small pieces. The suckling pig sandwiched in the sandwich was no longer crispy, which is probably why it was served with a bag of crispy potato chips. However, I did enjoy the pleasure of tasting the Portuguese specialty gourmet food.

布拉加大教堂 (Sé de Braga)是我游览布拉加的最后一个景点，它是葡萄牙的第一座大教堂，是布拉格的地标。这座大教堂融合了多种建筑风格。葡萄牙第一位国王的父母 D. Henrique 和 Dona Teresa 埋葬于此。以至于有这样的说法：“大教堂比布拉加更古老”。

Braga Cathedral (Sé de Braga) was the last attraction on my list visiting in Braga. It is the first cathedral and a landmark in Braga. This cathedral is a fusion of many architectural styles. D. Henrique and Dona Teresa, the parents of the first king of Portugal, was buried here. So much so that there is a saying that "the cathedral is older than Braga".