葡萄牙 科英布拉, Portugal Coimbra June 11-14 2024

劳伦斯

今年的夏天我选择到葡萄牙来旅游。6月11日到达里斯本，直接乘火车去北面的科英布拉，接下去布拉加，吉马良斯，波尔图，阿威罗，最后一站是西班牙的圣地亚哥·孔波斯特拉。全程约700公里，几乎是一条直线地向北走。

里斯本的机场有地铁，坐三站地铁就到里斯本火车东站，转车去科英布拉，非常方便。
在地铁站售票机的地方有近十个人在排队，大概都是从飞机上下来的人， 不太熟悉机器买票，速度很慢。

有一个年轻人好像在帮助指导买票的人。这个人没有穿制服，也没有戴工作人员的胸牌。既然他一直在帮助大家，我要赶去火车站。轮到我的时候，也请他指导。我告诉他要去火车东站。他先插了一张卡进售票机， 然后开始按机器。还按了三张票，我对他开始有点警觉。没有时间去追根问底了。请他改成一张票，我投入了现金。
I chose Portugal for this summer vacation. I arrived in Lisbon on June 11th and took a train directly to Coimbra. From there I
visited Braga, Guimarães, Porto, Aveiro, and finally Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The whole journey was about 700 kilometres, almost in a straight line heading north.

There is a subway at the Lisbon airport. It takes three subway stops to get to Lisbon East Railway Station, where I transferred to Coimbra. It was quite convenient. There were about ten people queuing at the ticket machine, probably all the passengers who had just gotten off the plane and were slow to figure out buying tickets from the machine.

There was a young man who seemed to be helping and guiding people to buy tickets. The young man was not in a uniform and did not have a name badge either. Since I had to rush to the train station, I asked him for help. I told him that I was going to the East Railway Station. He first inserted a card into the ticket machine and then started pressing the machine. He pressed for three tickets, and I began to be a little wary of him. There was no time to ask him for why. I told him to change it to one ticket and inserted cash.

科英布拉是葡萄牙中部的一座古老河滨城市。它曾经是葡萄牙民族引以为傲的前首都，拥有保存完好的中世纪老城区，和历史悠久的科英布拉大学。科英布拉有两个区域：上城区（阿尔塔），那里是科英布拉大学、乔阿尼娜图书馆和老教堂；下城区是该市的老城区，商业气息浓厚，有许多餐馆。

我的酒店在下城区，步行十分钟就到了圣克鲁斯修道院，这里埋葬着葡萄牙前二位国王。圣克鲁斯修道院因此拥有国家先贤祠的地位

Coimbra is an ancient riverside city in central Portugal. It was once the proud former capital of the Portuguese nation, with a well-preserved medieval old town and the historic University of Coimbra. Coimbra has two areas: the upper section (Alta), where the University of Coimbra, the Joanina Library and the Old Church are located; the lower section (Baixa) is the old part of the town, which is more commercial with restaurants, and tiny tascas (budget eateries).

My hotel is in the lower section, a ten-minute walk from the Santa Cruz Monastery, where the first and second kings of Portugal were buried. The Santa Cruz Monastery therefore has the status of a national pantheon.

到上城区要经过阿尔梅迪纳拱门和塔楼，塔楼是老城城墙的一部分。走出拱门是一条小巷，它的历史可以追溯至 8 世纪。我沿着小巷一阶阶的台阶“爬山”到上城区的老教堂广场。

I passed the Almedina Arch and Tower, which is part of the old city wall. Out of the arch there is an alley that dates back to the 8th century. I climbed the steps to the Old Church Square in the upper section (Alta) of town.

老教堂广场上坐落着 12 世纪的罗马式大教堂，是该市的第一座大教堂。这座类似堡垒的教堂由葡萄牙第一任国王阿方索·恩里克斯出资建造。

The Old Church Square is home to the 12th-century Romanesque cathedral, the city's first cathedral. The fortress-like structure was financed by Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal.

科英布拉大学建在一座前宫殿的遗址上，这座大学是世界上仅有的五所被列为世界遗产的大学之一。科英布拉市因此也被称为“知识之城”。

The historic University of Coimbra is built on the grounds of a former palace, is one of only five universities in the world listed as a World Heritage Site. Coimbra is therefore often called the “City of Knowledge”.

大学校园旁边的露台可以欣赏蒙德古河的景色，并俯瞰整个城镇！

The terrace next to the university campus offers views of the Mondego River and overlooks the entire town!

科英布拉大学也是世界上最古老的大学之一。科英布拉大学拥有世界上最好的图书馆之一乔安妮图书馆而闻名。这是葡萄牙国王若昂五世于 18 世纪初赠送的礼物，馆内藏有 30 万册书籍，陈列在奢华的镀金展柜中。被认为是具有无价历史价值的国家古迹。

参观要预约，必须要跟随导游，还有保安人员“陪同”，不可以拍照，不能够触摸。 金碧辉煌的皇宫格局，一排排奢华的镀金书籍。让人感叹不已。

The University of Coimbra is also one of the oldest universities in the world. It hides what is recognized as one of the world’s finest libraries, Biblioteca Joanina (King John’s Library)，which was a gift of King João V in the early 1700s, filled with 300,000 books displayed around an extravagant display of gilt. It is considered a national monument of invaluable historical value.

An advanced reservation is required to visit. It is a guided tour and be "accompanied" by security personnel. The visitors are not allowed to take pictures or to touch. The magnificent palace layout and rows of luxurious gilded books are just amazing.

圣米格尔教堂或圣迈克尔教堂是科英布拉大学里的一座教堂。圣米格尔教堂最初是科英布拉皇宫的一部分，该皇宫于 1597 年由大学从皇室手中收购。即使在购买后，它仍保留了皇室特权。精美的瓷砖墙砖、色彩鲜艳天花板。卡佩洛斯礼拜堂曾经用作考试室。

São Miguel Chapel or Saint Michael's Chapel, is a chapel of the University of Coimbra. The chapel was originally part of the Royal Palace of Coimbra, which was acquired by the university from the royal family in 1597. It retained royal privilege even after the purchase. The chapel features beautifully tiled walls and brightly colored ceilings. The Capellos Chapel was once used as an examination room.

在大学的食堂就午餐。

I had my lunch in the university cafeteria.

科英布拉大学里的化学系对外开放。

The Faculty of Chemistry at the University of Coimbra is open to the public.

在化学系边上是新大教堂，它最初是一座耶稣会教堂，经过一百多年的缓慢建成。内部装饰覆盖着华丽的巴洛克祭坛画。

Next to the Chemistry Faculty is the New Cathedral, Sé Nova，originally a Jesuit church that was slowly built over a hundred years. The interior is covered with splendid baroque altarpieces.

大学校园里的马查多德卡斯特罗国家博物馆是葡萄牙最重要的博物馆之一。该博物馆以其绘画、雕塑、金制品和艺术品收藏而闻名。

The Machado de Castro National Museum inside the University is one of the most important museums in Portugal. The museum is famous for its collection of paintings, sculptures, goldwork and art collections.

马查多德卡斯特罗国家博物馆坐落在古罗马遗址上。这条地下拱形走廊，建于公元一世纪或二世纪，在古罗马时期市政宗教中心的广场地下，它是葡萄牙珍贵的历史遗迹。

The Machado de Castro National Museum is located on ancient Roman ruins. This underground vaulted corridor, built in the first or second century AD, is a precious historical relic of Portugal under the square of the municipal religious centre of the ancient Roman period.

科英布拉大学正门的山下是圣塞巴斯蒂安渡槽。圣塞巴斯蒂安渡槽建于罗马中期16 世纪。优雅的拱门将水引入城市，促进了当时城市的发展。

At the foot of the main entrance of the University of Coimbra is the Aqueduct of São Sebastião. The Aqueduct of São Sebastião was built in the mid-Roman period of the 16th century. The elegant arches brought water into the city, which helped to fuel its development at the time.

酒店步行十分钟不到有一家名为 Solar do Baclha 的鳕鱼餐厅。

鳕鱼是葡萄牙饮食中根深蒂固的传统食材。许多葡萄牙人由于宗教信仰，在一年中有三分之一的时间不能吃肉。鳕鱼是肉类的绝佳替代品。从城市的贵族家庭到偏远山区和乡村最贫穷的家庭，一小块鳕鱼就足以给汤或简单的蔬菜和土豆菜肴增添美味。因此鳕鱼在葡萄牙被称为忠实的朋友“fiel amigo”。到葡萄牙来吃咸鳕鱼是体验葡萄牙美食之一。

Less than ten minutes’ walk from the hotel is a bacalhau restaurant called Solar do Baclha.

Bacalhau, cod, is a traditional ingredient deeply rooted in the Portuguese diet. Many people in Portugal cannot eat meat for one-third of the year due to religious beliefs. Cod is an excellent substitute for meat. From the noble families in the city to the poorest families in remote mountains and villages, a small piece of cod is enough to add flavour to soups or simple vegetable and potato dishes. Therefore, cod is called "fiel amigo" in Portugal, a faithful friend. Eating salt cod in Portugal is one of the best ways to experience Portuguese cuisine.

餐厅的鳕鱼有煎，煮，炖，汤，传统或现代风味不同的做法。同样的做法，鳕鱼不同的部位价格又各不相同。看着图解，我点了最厚，最肥的上身部位，当然价格也最贵。

The restaurant’s menu offers cod cooking in different styles: fried or boiled, stewed or souped, and with traditional or modern flavours. The prices vary depend upon different parts of the cod. Checking against the illustration, I ordered the fattest and thickest upper body part, which was also the most expensive.

科英布拉市区的巴士过一半是电动巴士。比亚迪的电动巴士占了很大的比例。

More than half of the buses in Coimbra are electric buses, and BYD's electric buses accounted for a large proportion.

波塔赫姆广场是科英布拉下城区的中心。周围还保持着不少历史建筑。

Largo da Portagem is the centre of Coimbra's lower section. There are many historical buildings around it.

科英布拉蒙德戈河的两岸由三座主要桥梁连接：阿库德桥、圣克拉拉桥（最古老的桥）和圣赖尼亚桥（也称为欧罗巴桥）。佩德罗和伊内斯人行桥是最近建成的桥梁，也是该市唯一的人行桥。

The two banks of Mondego River at Coimbra, are linked by three main bridges: the Ponte do Açude, the Ponte de Santa Clara (the oldest bridge) and Ponte Rainha Santa, also known as Ponte Europa. The Ponte Pedonal de Pedro e Inês is the most recently constructed bridge and the only footbridge in the city.

科英布拉蒙德戈河西岸的圣克拉拉老修道院建于1330年。自17世纪以来一直在河边下沉。经过了二十年的整修，我今天看到的还是大门紧锁，空无一人， 更像是被废弃的建筑。

The Santa Clara-a-Velha Monastery on the west bank of the Mondego River in Coimbra was built in 1330, that had been sinking by the river since the 17th century. It is said that the building has undergone 20 years of careful renovation. What I saw today was still empty and locked, more like an abandoned building.

向山上走二十来分钟是新的（“nova”）圣克拉拉修道院。当旧的（“velha”）圣克拉拉修道院开始浸水和下沉时，决定必须建造一座新的（“nova”）圣克拉拉修道院。 地址选择在不是很远的山顶上，绝对不会出现洪水的问题。 它没有保留哥特式建筑，而是按照当时的巴洛克风格设计。 它是献给圣伊莎贝尔女王的，教堂还拥有宏伟的镀金祭坛画。

About twenty minutes up the hill is the new ("nova") Monastery of Santa Clara. When the old ("velha") Monastery of Santa Clara began to flood and sink, it was decided that a new ("nova") Monastery of Santa Clara had to be built. The site was chosen not too far up the hill, so there would be no problem with flooding. It was not a reproduction of Gothic architecture, but was designed in the Baroque style of the time. It was dedicated to Queen Santa Isabel and the church given a magnificent gilded altarpiece.

在回程的路上看到一家巴西烤肉店，网上评论很不错。刚一坐下来就马上不停地有服务员拿出烤猪肉，烤牛肉，烤鸡， 烤肠。。。。我只要了菜，黑豆，和二小块烤肠。

On the way back, I saw a Brazilian barbecue restaurant with good reviews online, called Prazeres da Carne. As soon as I sat down, the server kept bringing out the roast pork, the roast beef, the roast chicken, and grilled sausages.... I ordered only some vegetables, black beans, and a couple pieces of the grilled sausages.