瑞士行 – 日内瓦

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日内瓦的历史可以追溯到公元前3世纪，当时居住着凯尔特人。公元前58年，罗马人征服了日内瓦，成为罗马帝国的一部分。罗马帝国崩溃后，日内瓦经历了多次权力更替，包括法兰克王国和勃艮第王国的统治。中世纪时，日内瓦逐渐发展成为一个重要的贸易中心。1536年神学家加尔文（John Calvin）到达日内瓦，开启了轰轰烈烈的宗教改革运动，使日内瓦成为欧洲宗教改革的中心。日内瓦在1815年成为瑞士联邦的一部分，正式加入瑞士。
日内瓦现在是多个国际组织的总部所在地，如联合国欧洲总部、红十字国际委员会和世界卫生组织。这使得日内瓦成为一个重要的国际政治和外交中心。日内瓦也是全球著名的金融中心，以其银行和金融服务业闻名。日内瓦拥有丰富的文化活动和设施，包括博物馆、剧院和音乐会。日内瓦大学是瑞士最古老和最有名的大学之一。隶属欧洲核子研究组织（CERN）的世界最大型粒子对撞加速器（Large Hadron Collider，LHC）就坐落在日内瓦近郊，为国际高能物理学领域做出了许多重要发现。
日内瓦最吸引人的地方是日内瓦湖的湖光山色和人文景观。日内瓦湖（Lac Léman）面积约为580平方公里。湖呈弯曲的月牙形，长约73公里，最宽处约14公里，最深处约310米，是西欧最大的淡水湖。由于阿尔卑斯山鲜活的雪水常年不断地注入，水质清澈见底，湖面宽阔明亮，碧波浩淼，如同一位明眸皓齿的丽人美艳夺目。和风吹煦里，成群结队的白天鹅悠闲自在地浮游湖面，加之湖的四周层峦叠翠，宛如天界。最让人吃惊的是当地人的自然享受和开放程度。湖中有个大型水上俱乐部，里面的妙龄女郎们个个不穿上装，赤裸着雪白胴体尽情享受日光浴。更有甚者，湖边的公园草坪上居然有年轻人经不住美景的诱惑，众目睽睽之下公然做爱，旁若无人。俗话说得好，一方水土养一方人，谁让瑞士拥有这般美妙的自然赐予呢，外地游客只能怪自己少见多怪罢了。请跟随这集风光图片，让我们一起来品旅游，学文化。
【English edition】
The history of Geneva dates back to the 3rd century BCE when it was inhabited by the Celts. In 58 BCE, the Romans conquered Geneva, making it part of the Roman Empire. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Geneva experienced multiple changes in power, including rule by the Frankish Kingdom and the Kingdom of Burgundy. During the Middle Ages, Geneva gradually developed into an important trade center. In 1536, the theologian John Calvin arrived in Geneva, initiating a significant religious reform movement, making Geneva a center of the Reformation in Europe. Geneva became part of the Swiss Confederation in 1815, officially joining Switzerland.
Today, Geneva is home to numerous international organizations, such as the United Nations European headquarters, the International Committee of the Red Cross, and the World Health Organization. This makes Geneva an important hub for international politics and diplomacy. Geneva is also a renowned global financial center, famous for its banking and financial services industry. The city boasts a rich array of cultural activities and facilities, including museums, theaters, and concerts. The University of Geneva is one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Switzerland. The Large Hadron Collider (LHC), the world's largest particle collider, operated by CERN, is located in the outskirts of Geneva and has made significant contributions to the field of high-energy physics.
One of the most attractive features of Geneva is the scenic beauty of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) and its cultural landmarks. Lake Geneva covers an area of approximately 580 square kilometers. The lake has a curved, crescent shape, stretching about 73 kilometers in length, with a maximum width of about 14 kilometers and a maximum depth of about 310 meters, making it the largest freshwater lake in Western Europe. The lake's water is crystal clear, fed continuously by the fresh snowmelt from the Alps, with its vastly bright and sparkling surface resembling a beautiful woman with radiant eyes. In the gentle breeze, flocks of white swans leisurely float on the lake's surface, while the surrounding verdant hills create a celestial landscape. What's most astonishing is the local people's enjoyment of nature and openness. The lake hosts a large water sports club where young women sunbathe topless, embracing the sun's rays with their bare, white bodies. Even more surprising, on the lawns of lakeside parks, young people sometimes succumb to the beauty of the scenery, engaging in public displays of affection and even making love in plain sight, seemingly oblivious to onlookers. As the saying goes, "A unique environment nurtures unique inhabitants." Switzerland's natural beauty is a gift to be cherished, and visitors from elsewhere can only marvel at the spectacle. Let's embrace travel and learn about culture together.

市容 （Cityscape）

日内瓦湖景色。（The scenery of Lake Geneva.） 日内瓦地标“日内瓦大喷泉”（Jet d’Eau de Geneve），最初建于1886年，起初作为一个安全阀，用于调节日内瓦的水力发电系统中的水压。1891年，喷泉被移至现址，成为一座独立的观光景点。喷泉高度达140米，每秒钟喷出500升水，水速可达每小时200公里，是世界上最高的喷泉之一。（The landmark of Geneva, the "Jet d’Eau de Genève" (Geneva Water Fountain), was initially constructed in 1886. It was originally designed as a safety valve to regulate the water pressure in Geneva's hydraulic power network. In 1891, the fountain was relocated to its current site, becoming an independent tourist attraction. The fountain reaches a height of 140 meters, ejects 500 liters of water per second, and the water speed can reach up to 200 kilometers per hour, making it one of the highest fountains in the world.） “人马”雕塑（Human and horse sculpture）。 巴基浴场（Bains des Pâquis）是日内瓦湖畔的一个著名公共浴场和休闲场所。浴场建于1872年，最初是木质结构。1930年代进行了重建，改为今天的混凝土结构。浴场有开放的游泳池、日光浴区、桑拿和蒸汽浴室。浴场里的女性大多裸露着上身，是湖中一道独特的风景线。（Bains des Pâquis is a famous public bath and leisure spot located on the shores of Lake Geneva. The bath was originally built in 1872 with a wooden structure. In the 1930s, it was rebuilt using concrete, giving it the structure it has today. The facility includes open swimming pools, sunbathing areas, saunas, and steam rooms. Many women at the bath sunbathe topless, creating a unique scene on the lake.） 老城区的“英国花园”（Jardin Anglais）紧邻日内瓦湖，建于1855年。花钟是英国花园最著名的景点之一，建于1955年，象征着日内瓦传统的制表工业。（The "Jardin Anglais" in the Old Town is located next to Lake Geneva and was established in 1855. The Flower Clock, one of the most famous attractions in the English Garden, was created in 1955 and symbolizes Geneva's traditional watchmaking industry.） “英国花园”里的喷泉。（The fountain in the "Jardin Anglais".） 湖边绿地。（Lakeside green space.） 勃朗峰纪念碑（Monument Brunswick）。
** 卡尔·弗里德里希·勃朗峰（Charles II, Duke of Brunswick）公爵是一位富有的贵族，他在1873年去世后，将其巨额财产遗赠给日内瓦市，以换取为他建造一座宏伟的纪念碑。纪念碑于1879年完工，由建筑师Jean Franel设计，采用哥特式建筑风格，灵感来源于意大利维罗纳的Scaligeri家族墓。纪念碑顶部装饰有公爵的雕像，周围环绕着象征性的狮子雕塑和其他历史人物的雕像。（Charles II, Duke of Brunswick, was a wealthy nobleman who, upon his death in 1873, bequeathed his vast fortune to the city of Geneva in exchange for the construction of a magnificent monument in his honor. The monument was completed in 1879 and was designed by architect Jean Franel in a Gothic architectural style, inspired by the Scaliger Tombs in Verona, Italy. The top of the monument is adorned with a statue of the Duke, surrounded by symbolic lion sculptures and statues of other historical figures.）
万国宫（联合国总部，Palais des Nations）。万国宫由五位不同国家的建筑师合作设计，是全球最大的国际会议中心之一。万国宫始建于1929年，1938年完工，作为国际联盟（League of Nations）的总部。二战后，随着联合国的成立，万国宫成为联合国的一个主要办事处。万国宫内设有多功能的会议厅，包括著名的大会堂（Assembly Hall）、理事会厅（Council Chamber）和多功能会议厅（Room XX）。这里是联合国在欧洲的主要办事处，如世界卫生组织（WHO）、国际劳工组织（ILO）等。万国宫是全球和平与合作的象征，它在促进国际对话和合作方面发挥了重要作用，对全球事务具有深远影响。（The Palais des Nations，United Nations Headquarters， was designed collaboratively by architects from five different countries and is one of the largest international conference centers in the world. Construction began in 1929 and was completed in 1938, originally serving as the headquarters for the League of Nations. After World War II, with the establishment of the United Nations, the Palais des Nations became one of the main offices of the UN. The building features multifunctional conference rooms, including the famous Assembly Hall, the Council Chamber, and Room XX. It serves as the main UN office in Europe and houses various UN agencies such as the World Health Organization (WHO) and the International Labour Organization (ILO). The Palais des Nations is a symbol of global peace and cooperation and plays a significant role in promoting international dialogue and cooperation, having a profound impact on global affairs.） 万国宫前的“断腿椅”（Broken Chair）塑像，高12米，木材制成。由瑞士艺术家丹尼尔·伯塞特（Daniel Berset）设计，并于1997年由瑞士木匠路易·吉诺（Louis Genève）建造。（The "Broken Chair" statue in front of the Palais des Nations stands 12 meters tall and is made of wood. It was designed by Swiss artist Daniel Berset and constructed in 1997 by Swiss carpenter Louis Genève.）
** 这座雕塑是由国际反地雷组织（Handicap International）委托制作的，目的是引起人们对地雷和集束弹药危害的关注，并呼吁国际社会签署和履行《渥太华条约》（即《禁止地雷公约》）。断腿椅象征着地雷和爆炸物给人们带来的伤害，尤其是对平民和儿童的残害。它代表了那些因地雷失去肢体的人们，并呼吁国际社会关注和帮助这些受害者。（The sculpture was commissioned by Handicap International with the aim of raising awareness about the dangers of landmines and cluster munitions and calling on the international community to sign and adhere to the Ottawa Treaty (the Mine Ban Treaty). The Broken Chair symbolizes the injuries caused by landmines and explosive devices, particularly their devastating effects on civilians and children. It represents those who have lost limbs due to landmines and serves as a call for global attention and assistance for these victims.）
宗教改革之墙（Reformation Wall）建于1909年至1917年，以纪念加尔文宗教改革四百周年。纪念碑长约100米，高约9米，由石灰岩建成。中央部分突出的四位雕刻高达5米，分别是宗教改革的重要人物：约翰·加尔文（John Calvin）、纪尧姆·法雷尔（William Farel）、泰奥多尔·贝扎（Theodore Beza）和约翰·诺克斯（John Knox）。纪念碑的两侧还有其他宗教改革相关人物的浮雕和铭文。纪念碑的设计由建筑师Charles Dubois、Jean Taillens和Alphonse Laverrière负责，雕刻工作则由著名的法国雕刻家保罗·朗多夫斯基（Paul Landowski）主导完成。朗多夫斯基的其他著名作品包括法国巴黎的“基督君王雕像”（Christ the King Statue）和巴西里约热内卢的“基督救世主像”（Christ the Redeemer Statue）。（The Reformation Wall was constructed between 1909 and 1917 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Calvin's Reformation. The monument is approximately 100 meters long and 9 meters high, made of limestone. The central section features four prominent statues, each 5 meters tall, representing key figures of the Reformation: John Calvin, William Farel, Theodore Beza, and John Knox. On either side of the monument, there are bas-reliefs and inscriptions of other significant Reformation figures. The design of the monument was overseen by architects Charles Dubois, Jean Taillens, and Alphonse Laverrière, with the sculpting work led by the renowned French sculptor Paul Landowski. Landowski's other famous works include the "Christ the King Statue" in Paris, France, and the "Christ the Redeemer Statue" in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.）
** 16世纪的欧洲正处于宗教动荡和改革的时期。罗马天主教会的腐败和滥用权力引发了广泛的不满，促使许多神学家和宗教领袖呼吁改革。这一运动在许多欧洲国家迅速蔓延，形成了广泛的宗教改革浪潮。1536年，法国神学家纪尧姆·法雷尔（William Farel）来到日内瓦推动宗教改革，他成功说服了日内瓦市民反对天主教，改革宗教信仰。加尔文（John Calvin，1509-1564）于1536年首次来到日内瓦，并在法雷尔的鼓励下推进改革工作。加尔文的《基督教要义》（Institutes of the Christian Religion）是宗教改革的重要文献，奠定了加尔文主义的基础。加尔文在日内瓦建立了一套严格的宗教管理制度，强调教会的纯洁和纪律。他设立了教会长老会（Consistory），负责监督市民的宗教和道德行为。加尔文重视教育，认为教育是培养合格基督徒的重要途径。他在日内瓦设立了日内瓦学院（Collège de Genève），培养了大批神学家和牧师，这些人将宗教改革的理念传播到全欧洲。加尔文的宗教改革不仅影响了教会，也深刻改变了日内瓦的社会结构。他的教义强调个人责任、勤劳和节俭。加尔文在日内瓦的成功使得该市成为宗教改革的中心之一。他的思想和学说通过学生和印刷品传播到法国、荷兰、苏格兰和英格兰等地，深刻影响了这些国家的宗教改革和社会发展。日内瓦成为了欧洲宗教迫害难民的避难所。
（In the 16th century, Europe was experiencing a period of religious upheaval and reform. Widespread dissatisfaction arose due to the corruption and abuse of power within the Roman Catholic Church, prompting many theologians and religious leaders to call for reform. This movement quickly spread across many European countries, forming a broad wave of religious reformation. In 1536, French theologian William Farel arrived in Geneva to promote religious reform. He successfully persuaded the citizens of Geneva to oppose Catholicism and reform their religious beliefs. John Calvin (1509-1564) first came to Geneva in 1536 and, encouraged by Farel, advanced the reform efforts. Calvin's "Institutes of the Christian Religion" is a significant document of the Reformation, laying the foundation for Calvinism. Calvin established a strict religious management system in Geneva, emphasizing the purity and discipline of the church. He set up the Consistory, a church body responsible for overseeing the religious and moral behavior of the citizens. Calvin valued education, believing it to be a crucial means of cultivating competent Christians. He founded the Collège de Genève in Geneva, which trained many theologians and pastors who spread the ideas of the Reformation throughout Europe. Calvin's religious reforms not only affected the church but also profoundly changed the social structure of Geneva. His doctrines emphasized personal responsibility, hard work, and frugality. Calvin's success in Geneva made the city one of the centers of the Reformation. His thoughts and teachings spread to France, the Netherlands, Scotland, and England through his students and printed materials, deeply influencing the religious reformations and social developments in these countries. Geneva became a refuge for religious persecution refugees in Europe.）
面对雕塑读书的学生，书名是“Home Body”.( Facing the sculpture, a student was reading the book titled "Home Body.")

畅游日内瓦湖

乘坐游轮在日内瓦湖区作深度游。一路青山绿水伴行，岸边倩丽豪华的住宅和自然村镇在绿树的掩映下忽隐忽现，飘扬的瑞士红色十字国旗在蓝天白云下显得格外醒目。看过世界上许多漂亮的湖泊，但规模都没有如此巨大，日内瓦湖是我见过的世界上最美丽的湖泊之一。（Take a cruise for an in-depth tour of the Lake Geneva area. As we sail, we are accompanied by lush green mountains and waters. Elegant, luxurious homes and quaint villages peek out from behind the greenery along the shore, while the red Swiss flag with its white cross stands out vividly against the blue sky and white clouds. Having seen many beautiful lakes around the world, none compare in scale to this one. Lake Geneva is one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen.）

乘坐游轮在日内瓦湖区作深度游。一路青山绿水伴行，岸边倩丽豪华的住宅和自然村镇在绿树的掩映下忽隐忽现，飘扬的瑞士红色十字国旗在蓝天白云下显得格外醒目。看过世界上许多漂亮的湖泊，但规模都没有如此巨大，日内瓦湖是我见过的世界上最美丽的湖泊之一。（Take a cruise for an in-depth tour of the Lake Geneva area. As we sail, we are accompanied by lush green mountains and waters. Elegant, luxurious homes and quaint villages peek out from behind the greenery along the shore, while the red Swiss flag with its white cross stands out vividly against the blue sky and white clouds. Having seen many beautiful lakes around the world, none compare in scale to this one. Lake Geneva is one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen.） 小学生。（Elementary school students.） 日内瓦市区一瞥。（A glimpse of downtown Geneva.） 帕基灯塔（Phare des Pâquis）。 途中码头。（Midway pier.）

法国花镇

因为和法国隔水相望，游轮载着我们去了湖对岸法国的一个著名古典花镇伊瓦尔（Yvoire），一探芳容。伊瓦尔（Yvoire）是法国东部罗讷-阿尔卑斯大区上萨瓦省的一个美丽小镇，位于日内瓦湖的南岸。伊瓦尔以其保存完好的中世纪风貌和丰富的历史文化遗产，被誉为法国最美丽的村庄之一。伊瓦尔的历史可以追溯到14世纪，当时由萨瓦伯爵阿梅迪五世（Amédée V）建立。由于其战略位置，伊瓦尔曾在中世纪时期是一个重要的防御据点。小镇建有坚固的城墙和城堡，旨在保护其居民免受敌人的侵袭。今天，许多这些历史建筑依然保存完好，成为游客观赏的焦点。随着时间的推移，伊瓦尔从一个军事据点转变为一个繁荣的农业和渔业小镇，并逐渐发展成为一个受欢迎的旅游胜地。漫步在中世纪狭窄蜿蜒的街道上，各家各户花团锦秀，五彩缤纷，如诗如画，漫溢着浓郁厚重的历史艺术氛围。伊瓦尔有许多咖啡馆和餐馆，是享受法国美食的好地方，且价格比瑞士便宜许多。小镇有许多小型工艺品商店，出售当地手工制作的艺术纪念品，如陶器、纺织品和珠宝等。有意思的是从日内瓦湖入境法国，居然没有边防关卡，自由通行。（Due to its location across the water from France, our cruise took us to the famous classical floral town of Yvoire on the opposite shore of the lake. Yvoire is a beautiful town in the Haute-Savoie department of the Rhône-Alpes region in eastern France, situated on the southern shore of Lake Geneva. Known for its well-preserved medieval appearance and rich historical and cultural heritage, Yvoire is acclaimed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Yvoire's history dates back to the 14th century when it was established by Count Amédée V of Savoy. Due to its strategic location, Yvoire was an important defensive stronghold during the medieval period. The town was built with sturdy walls and a castle to protect its residents from enemy attacks. Today, many of these historical buildings remain intact and are key attractions for visitors. Over time, Yvoire transitioned from a military stronghold to a thriving agricultural and fishing town, gradually developing into a popular tourist destination. Strolling through the narrow, winding medieval streets, you are greeted with an abundance of colorful flowers, creating a picturesque, poetic scene filled with a rich historical and artistic atmosphere. Yvoire has numerous cafes and restaurants, making it a great place to enjoy French cuisine at prices much cheaper than in Switzerland. The town also has many small craft shops selling locally made artisanal souvenirs such as pottery, textiles, and jewelry. Interestingly, entering France from Lake Geneva, there are no border checkpoints, allowing for free passage.）
花镇码头。（Yvoire Pier） 圣潘克拉斯教堂（St Pancras Church），其历史可以追溯到14世纪，为纪念圣潘克拉斯而建。圣潘克拉斯是一位早期的基督教殉道者，因其坚定的信仰而广受尊崇。（St Pancras Church, whose history dates back to the 14th century, was built to commemorate St Pancras. St Pancras was an early Christian martyr widely revered for his steadfast faith.） 伊瓦尔城堡（Château d'Yvoire），建于14世纪。城堡内部不对公众开放。（Château d'Yvoire, built in the 14th century, is not open to the public.） 花镇午餐-法式摊饼。（Lunch in Yvoire – French crepes.）
** 瑞士餐馆的食物非常昂贵。在日内瓦一家装潢不错的中餐馆吃了一顿晚餐，点了一盘青菜和一盘不大的鲈鱼，居然花了90多瑞士法郎(相当于100多美元，将近1千元人民币)，而且量小没有吃饱。同团的一位俄国女士喝了一杯咖啡，收了46瑞士法郎。相比之下，法国的食物便宜许多。游湖时导游让我们把肚子留着，到法国这边吃：）（Food at Swiss restaurants is very expensive. At a well-decorated Chinese restaurant in Geneva, a dinner with a plate of vegetables and a small bass costed over 90 Swiss francs (about 100 USD, nearly 1,000 RMB), which still did not feel full. A Russian lady in our group had a coffee and was charged 46 Swiss francs. In comparison, food in France is much cheaper. Our guide advised us to save room for meals on the French side of the lake.）
2024.07.25-30， STP16.

作者简介
旅行家，作家，兼摄影师，现为美国医学院教授。出版有长篇小说《海鸥教授》，《杜鹃花开》，《玫瑰血》，《生命是用来虚度的》，中篇小说《留学生》，《寒星》，短篇小说《悔恋》，《小倩绝恋》，《年夜》，《真实的谎言》等，并著有大量散文，游记，摄影专集。