瑞士行 - 苏黎世

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瞩目瑞士已经多年，那里有欧洲最高最壮丽的阿尔卑斯山脉（Alps）。第一次看到它是十年前去希腊开学术会议时飞临其上空，从机窗下望，被那一望无际雄奇壮丽的连绵雪峰和冰川所深深吸引。后来去奥地利旅游，站在德国南部希特勒建筑的鹰巢上远眺阿尔卑斯山莽莽群峰，乱云飞渡，更加心生敬意，多了一分向往。
瑞士地处中欧内陆，分别与德国、法国、意大利和奥地利等国接壤，其历史可以追溯到古罗马时期。中世纪时瑞士的各个州（或称为“坎顿”）逐渐形成，并开始联合起来形成联盟。1291年，乌里、施维茨和翁特瓦尔登三个坎顿缔结了瑞士邦联的最早联盟，被视为瑞士建国的起点。14世纪和15世纪通过一系列军事胜利（如莫尔格滕之战、森帕赫之战），瑞士巩固了其独立地位。1648年，《威斯特伐利亚和约》正式确认了瑞士的独立地位，从神圣罗马帝国中独立出来。19世纪初拿破仑战争期间，瑞士被法国占领，建立了短暂的赫尔维蒂共和国。1848年，瑞士通过了一部新的联邦宪法，确立了现代瑞士联邦的基础。两次世界大战中瑞士保持中立，并成为许多国际组织的总部所在地，包括红十字会和联合国日内瓦办事处。
瑞士现在是一个联邦制国家，拥有26个州（坎顿）。其政治体系由公民通过公投，直接影响国家政策。瑞士政府由七名联邦委员组成，每名委员轮流担任一年一度的总统职务。瑞士是全球最富裕的国家之一，经济高度发达，主要依赖于金融服务、制药、钟表制造、机械和旅游业。瑞士使用瑞士法郎（CHF）货币，是全球最稳定的货币之一。瑞士有四种官方语言：德语、法语、意大利语和罗曼什语。不同语言区拥有独特的文化和传统。瑞士不是欧盟成员，但与欧盟保持紧密的经济和政治联系。瑞士也是联合国、世界贸易组织等重要国际组织的成员。瑞士以其高质量的生活水平、优质的教育和医疗系统以及美丽的自然风光而闻名，但生活消费非常昂贵。
2024年6月终于来到向往已久的瑞士旅游。由于地处阿尔卑斯山脉地区，瑞士水系特别发达，沿途瀑布、河流、湖泊众多，滋润得山川秀美，大地草绿，浑然天成。即使是都市，也都被河流和湖泊包围着，美仪美姿美轮美奂，一样的世外仙境。一路拍了许多图片，让我们一起来品旅游，学文化。

【English version】

A Trip to Switzerland

I have been fascinated by Switzerland for many years, a place home to the highest and most magnificent Alps in Europe. My first glimpse of it was ten years ago when I was flying over the Alps en route to a scientific conference in Greece. Looking down from the airplane window, I was deeply captivated by the endless, majestic, and magnificent snow-capped peaks and glaciers. Later, during a trip to Austria, I stood at Hitler's Eagle's Nest in southern Germany and gazed out at the vast peaks of the Alps, where clouds drifted across the sky, further inspiring my admiration and longing.
Switzerland is located in central Europe, bordered by Germany, France, Italy, and Austria. Its history can be traced back to ancient Rome. In the Middle Ages, various Swiss cantons gradually formed and began to unite into a confederation. In 1291, the cantons of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden formed the earliest alliance of the Swiss Confederation, marking the founding of Switzerland. During the 14th and 15th centuries, through a series of military victories such as the Battle of Morgarten and the Battle of Sempach, Switzerland consolidated its independence. In 1648, the Treaty of Westphalia officially confirmed Switzerland's independence from the Holy Roman Empire. In the early 19th century, during the Napoleonic Wars, Switzerland was occupied by France and briefly became the Helvetic Republic. In 1848, Switzerland adopted a new federal constitution, laying the foundation for the modern Swiss Confederation. Switzerland remained neutral during both World Wars and became the headquarters for many international organizations, including the Red Cross and the United Nations Office in Geneva.
Switzerland is now a federal state with 26 cantons. Its political system allows citizens to directly influence national policy through referendums. The Swiss government is composed of seven federal councilors, with each councilor taking turns serving as president annually. Switzerland is one of the wealthiest countries in the world, with a highly developed economy primarily reliant on financial services, pharmaceuticals, watchmaking, machinery, and tourism. The Swiss currency, the Swiss Franc (CHF), is one of the most stable currencies globally. Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian, and Romansh, with different linguistic regions possessing unique cultures and traditions. Although not a member of the European Union, Switzerland maintains close economic and political ties with the EU. Switzerland is also a member of important international organizations such as the United Nations and the World Trade Organization. Switzerland is renowned for its high quality of life, excellent education and healthcare systems, and beautiful natural scenery, though living costs are very high.
In June 2024, my wife and I finally visited the long-awaited Switzerland. Due to its location in the Alps, Switzerland has an extensive water system, with numerous waterfalls, rivers, and lakes along the way, enriching the landscape with lush green mountains and vibrant, verdant terrain. Even the cities are surrounded by rivers and lakes, creating a picturesque, fairy-tale-like scenery. We took many photos along the way and are happy to share this travel experience and cultural journey.

苏黎世（Zurich）

在瑞士旅游，第一站我们来到了瑞士的最大城市苏黎世。苏黎世在罗马帝国时期被称为“图利卡姆”（Turicum），是一个贸易和税收中心。公元853年，法兰克国王路易二世在苏黎世建立了女子修道院，成为该市历史上的一个重要里程碑。中世纪晚期，苏黎世成为一个重要的贸易和手工业中心，并在1351年加入瑞士邦联，成为第一个加入邦联的城市州。16世纪，乌尔里希·茨温利（Ulrich Zwingli）在苏黎世发起了宗教改革，成为瑞士宗教改革的中心。18世纪和19世纪，苏黎世逐渐工业化，特别是在纺织和机械制造领域取得了显著发展。19世纪末和20世纪初，苏黎世经历了快速的城市化和现代化基础设施，如电力系统、公共交通和大学。第二次世界大战期间，苏黎世保持中立，成为许多政治难民和知识分子的避难所。

苏黎世是全球金融中心之一，拥有众多国际知名银行、保险公司和金融机构。苏黎世证券交易所是世界上最重要的证券交易所之一。除金融业外，苏黎世还在制药、信息技术和高科技制造等领域具有重要地位。苏黎世是瑞士的教育和研究中心，拥有瑞士联邦理工学院（ETH Zurich）和苏黎世大学等世界知名的高等教育机构，在科学、技术和人文学科方面的研究享有国际声誉。苏黎世拥有众多博物馆、剧院和音乐会场馆，如瑞士国家博物馆、苏黎世艺术馆和歌剧院。苏黎世老城区保存了许多历史建筑和景点。城市环境优美，位于苏黎世湖畔，周围环绕着阿尔卑斯山脉，是户外活动和自然爱好者的天堂。苏黎世在金融、教育、研究和文化等方面的领先地位，使其成为瑞士乃至欧洲的重要城市之一。

苏黎世虽然没有巴黎、伦敦的金碧辉煌和磅礴气势，也没有罗马、雅典的千年历史，却透出了一种恬淡和安雅，利马特湖（Limmat River）在市区汨汨注入苏黎世湖（Zurichsee），从地图上看像一个长长的气球下面挂着一根长线。我们漫步在苏黎世中世纪风味的整洁街道上，人们和善热情，笑容可掬。沿着河岸和湖岸观景，那些像火柴盒般整齐排列的历史建筑物仿佛向我们叙述着这座城市的古往今来。干净清洁的环境让人称赞不已，也吸引了许多白天鹅来到这里，浮游水上，仙姿妙曼，赋予了一种其它都市少有的诗画情趣。

【English version】

1. Zurich

On our first stop in Switzerland, we arrived in Zurich, the country's largest city. Zurich, known as "Turicum" during the Roman Empire, was a trade and tax center. In 853 AD, Frankish King Louis II established a women's monastery in Zurich, marking an important milestone in the city's history. In the late Middle Ages, Zurich became a significant trade and craft center and joined the Swiss Confederation in 1351, becoming the first city-state to do so. In the 16th century, Ulrich Zwingli initiated the Reformation in Zurich, making it the center of the Swiss Reformation. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Zurich gradually industrialized, achieving notable development in the textile and machinery manufacturing sectors. At the turn of the 20th century, Zurich experienced rapid urbanization and modernization, with advancements such as the establishment of electricity systems, public transportation, and universities. During World War II, Zurich remained neutral, becoming a refuge for many political exiles and intellectuals.
Zurich is one of the world's financial centers, home to numerous internationally renowned banks, insurance companies, and financial institutions. The Zurich Stock Exchange is one of the most important stock exchanges globally. Besides the financial industry, Zurich also holds significant positions in the pharmaceutical, information technology, and high-tech manufacturing sectors. Zurich is Switzerland's educational and research hub, hosting world-renowned institutions such as ETH Zurich (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology) and the University of Zurich, which are internationally acclaimed for their research in science, technology, and the humanities. The city boasts numerous museums, theaters, and concert venues, including the Swiss National Museum, Kunsthaus Zurich, and the Zurich Opera House. Zurich's old town preserves many historical buildings and landmarks. The city's beautiful environment, situated by Lake Zurich and surrounded by the Alps, makes it a paradise for outdoor activities and nature lovers. Zurich's leadership in finance, education, research, and culture makes it one of the most important cities in Switzerland and Europe.
Though Zurich lacks the splendor and grandeur of Paris and London, and the millennia-old history of Rome and Athens, it exudes a sense of tranquility and elegance. The Limmat River flows through the city and into Lake Zurich, appearing on the map like a long balloon with a string hanging beneath it. As we strolled along Zurich's clean, medieval streets, we encountered friendly and warm people, smiling kindly. Along the river and lake banks, the neatly arranged historical buildings seemed to narrate the city's past and present. The pristine environment is commendable and attracts many white swans that gracefully float on the water, adding a poetic and picturesque charm rarely found in other cities.

利马特河风光（Limmat River）

流经苏黎世老城区的利马特河两岸风景。（The scenery along the banks of the Limmat River flowing through Zurich's old town.） 左边的绿顶教堂是苏黎世圣母教堂（Frauenkirche），哥特式风格。右边是圣彼得教堂（St. Peter Kirche），以其巨大的钟表而闻名，钟表直径达8.7米，是欧洲最大的钟表之一。（On the left, the green-roofed church is the Fraumünster Church in Zurich, showcasing Gothic architecture. On the right is St. Peter's Church, renowned for its enormous clock face with a diameter of 8.7 meters, making it one of the largest clock faces in Europe.） 苏黎世圣母教堂外观。（The exterior of the Fraumünster Church in Zurich.） 苏黎世圣母教堂内观。（The interior of the Fraumünster Church in Zurich.） 苏黎世圣母教堂外位于苏黎世明斯特广场的汉斯·瓦尔德曼（Hans Waldmann，1435年出生，1489年逝世）骑马雕像。由奥古斯特·普尔卡特（August Böcklin）设计并于1937年揭幕。（The equestrian statue of Hans Waldmann (1435-1489) located outside the Fraumünster Church in Zurich, at Münsterhof Square. Designed by August Böcklin and unveiled in 1937.）
** 瓦尔德曼是苏黎世的军事指挥官，在对抗哈布斯堡王朝的战争中表现卓越。 1473年，瓦尔德曼当选为苏黎世市长，在任期间实施了一系列改革措施，致力于加强城市的政治和经济力量。（Waldmann was the military commander of Zurich and performed excellently in the war against the Habsburg dynasty. In 1473, Waldmann was elected mayor of Zurich, during which he implemented a series of reforms aimed at strengthening the city's political and economic power.）
圣彼得教堂。 苏黎世大教堂（Grossmünster），其历史可以追溯到12世纪。内部不让拍照。（The Grossmünster in Zurich dates back to the 12th century. Photography is not permitted inside.） 利马特河中浮游着许多白天鹅。（Many white swans float on the Limmat River.） 河中还有骨顶鸡。（There are also Eurasian coots in the river.） 桥灯柱装饰。（The bridge lamp posts are adorned with decorations.） 从湖岸桥看利马特河两岸风景。（The view of the Limmat River's banks from Quaibrucke Bridge.） 苏黎世湖风光。（The scenery of Lake Zurich.） 苏黎世湖奇特的柏树。（The unique cypress trees around Lake Zurich.）

市区拾遗（Urban discoveries in the city）

乌尔里希·茨温利（Ulrich Zwingli，1484-1531）是瑞士宗教改革的奠基人之一，雕像位于苏黎世市中心的瓦萨教堂（Wasserkirche）旁。（Ulrich Zwingli (1484-1531) was one of the founders of the Swiss Reformation, and his statue is located next to Wasserkirche in the city center of Zurich.）
** 乌尔里希·茨温利于1484年出生于瑞士，在1506年成为一名天主教神父。茨温利受到人文主义思想的影响，尤其是伊拉斯谟的作品。1519年，他被任命为苏黎世的大教堂牧师，开始在布道中提出对天主教会的批评，反对赎罪券的销售和教会的腐败。在茨温利的领导下，苏黎世市议会于1523年召开了一次宗教辩论会，决定支持茨温利的改革。这标志着苏黎世正式开始了宗教改革。改革包括废除天主教弥撒、拆除宗教偶像、简化礼拜仪式等。瑞士宗教改革导致了瑞士宗教的多样化，不再完全受天主教会的控制。苏黎世和日内瓦成为新教的重要据点，瑞士各州在宗教上也表现出更多的独立性。瑞士改革强调教会和国家的关系。茨温利认为市政当局应该监督教会事务，而另一位宗教改革者让·加尔文（John Calvin）则在日内瓦建立了一个神权政治，教会直接影响政府政策。宗教改革还促进了印刷术的发展，因为新教徒重视个人阅读《圣经》。在今日瑞士，新教占据了主导地位。瑞士宗教改革不仅改变了瑞士的宗教格局，还对整个欧洲的宗教、政治和社会产生了深远影响。（Ulrich Zwingli was born in Switzerland in 1484 and became a Catholic priest in 1506. Influenced by humanist ideas, especially the works of Erasmus, he was appointed as the pastor of Zurich's cathedral in 1519. There, he began criticizing the Catholic Church in his sermons, opposing the sale of indulgences and church corruption. Under Zwingli's leadership, the Zurich city council convened a religious debate in 1523, deciding to support his reforms, marking the official beginning of the Reformation in Zurich. The reforms included the abolition of the Catholic Mass, the removal of religious idols, and the simplification of worship services. The Swiss Reformation led to religious diversity in Switzerland, reducing the control of the Catholic Church. Zurich and Geneva became important centers for Protestantism, with Swiss cantons exhibiting greater religious independence. Zwingli emphasized the relationship between church and state, believing that municipal authorities should oversee church matters, while another reformer, John Calvin, established a theocratic government in Geneva where the church directly influenced government policy. The Reformation also promoted the development of printing, as Protestants valued individual reading of the Bible. Today, Protestantism is predominant in Switzerland. The Swiss Reformation not only transformed the religious landscape of Switzerland but also had a profound impact on the religious, political, and social dynamics of Europe as a whole.）
位于苏黎世湖边的Geiserbrunnen 喷泉。（The Geiserbrunnen fountain located by Lake Zurich.） 有轨电车站。（Tram stop） 有轨电车。（Tram） 苏黎世火车站是欧洲最大的火车站。（Zurich Hauptbahnhof is the largest railway station in Europe.） 苏黎世及瑞士各个大城市的大街小巷遍布这种饮水龙头。水很干净，方便人们饮用。（Zurich and various major cities in Switzerland are filled with these drinking fountains. The water is very clean and convenient for people to drink.） 放学的小学生。（Elementary school students after school.） 瑞士人酷爱运动，体格强壮。这是正在举行的苏黎世三项全能比赛（Zc3）。（The Swiss are passionate about sports and are physically fit. This is the ongoing Zurich Triathlon.） 2024.07.12-14，STP16.

作者简介
旅行家，作家，兼摄影师，现为美国医学院教授。出版有长篇小说《海鸥教授》，《杜鹃花开》，《玫瑰血》，《生命是用来虚度的》，中篇小说《留学生》，《寒星》，短篇小说《悔恋》，《小倩绝恋》，《年夜》，《真实的谎言》等，并著有大量散文，游记，摄影专集。