希尔顿黑德岛度假胜地 掠影

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希尔顿黑德岛（Hilton Head Island）位于美国南卡罗来纳州，是一个著名的海滩度假胜地，以其美丽的海滩、高尔夫球场和丰富的户外活动而闻名。2024年4月中旬，我们踏上了前往希尔顿黑德岛的旅程。抵达后，驱车前往预定的度假屋，沿途宽绰的过桥公路两旁出现了湿地和葱郁的树林，立刻勾引起了二三十年前美好的回忆。那时孩子们还小，我们的事业也刚刚起步，还要时常回中国看望年迈的父母和亲友。家庭经济虽不富裕，但我们舍得花钱，带孩子们到世界各地走走，开阔眼界，对她们的成长一定会有帮助。我们先后三次来过希尔顿黑德岛度假，直到孩子们长大，远走高飞。回味往昔，蓦然间感到时光流逝飞快，一切都在不经意间。
大概童年和少年时期海边度假给孩子们留下了深刻美好的记忆，等到她们有了自己的家庭和小不点后，邀约我们一道故地重游，在希尔顿黑德岛重聚，我们自然欣然答应，并大包大揽地承担了大部分费用。我们在靠近海边的Forest Beach Dr大道上靠近科利尼海滩（Coligny Beach）的地方租了一栋两层楼的独立私家屋，四间卧室加客厅和饭厅，后院还有一个私人温水游泳池。出租屋设备齐全，客厅宽敞，可以自己烹饪。住处附近有几家超市，我们很快将冰箱塞得满满的。
希尔顿黑德岛拥有12英里的白沙海滩，虽然时令尚早，海滩上已经有了不少游客。他们有的散步，有的戏水，有的躺在沙滩椅上享受大海的欢腾和天边云彩的滚动。远近各种鸟类更是不甘寂寞，在浅滩和深水里探鱼和寻找贝壳，忙得不也乐乎。一群不知哪里来的灰色鹈鹕，在海浪上飞翔，矗着一尺多长的大嘴十分搞笑，嘬起鱼来一点也不含糊。阳光洒在白沙滩上，海风吹拂，我们将小外孙胖胖的双脚放进海水里，随着阵阵海浪涌来，他兴奋得手舞足蹈，拍着双手大叫，和他妈妈小时候一样，童趣可爱。希望宽阔的海洋能够在他的脑海里也留下无限的空间和想象力，面对未来世界的开拓挑战。
海滩科利尼广场一带有各种各样的餐馆，玩累了我们就尽情享受各种美食，餐桌上大谈以往来这里的奇闻趣事，忍禁不住时发出的朗朗笑声感染到了邻桌。
除了海滩，希尔顿黑德岛上有许多保护区，还有不少休闲景点。希尔顿黑德岛是高尔夫爱好者的天堂，有超过20个高尔夫球场，包括著名的海港镇高尔夫球场（Harbour Town Golf Links），这里每年举办PGA巡回赛的RBC传统高球赛。海港镇上的标志性建筑是1969年建的灯塔，登上塔顶，可以俯瞰全岛的周边海域和沼泽地。据介绍高尔夫球赛的最后一杆总是朝向灯塔的方向。
海洋探索博物馆（Coastal Discovery Museum）也是一个值得去的景点，里面的展览内容丰富多样，既有关于当地生态系统的介绍，也有关于岛屿历史的详细描述，对了解岛屿的自然历史和文化遗产很有帮助。希尔顿黑德岛最早是由美洲原住民居住的，他们在岛上生活了数千年。这些早期居民包括谢尔克族（Shell Ring People），留下了许多考古遗址。1521年，西班牙探险家Francisco Gordillo首次到达该地区。1663年，英国航海家威廉·希尔顿（William Hilton）探索并命名了该岛。18世纪初，英国殖民者在岛上定居，发展农业，特别是种植水稻和靛蓝。1861年南北战争期间，联邦军队在波特罗亚尔战役中占领了希尔顿黑德岛，并将其作为联邦军的军事和医疗中心。美国历史上第一个由解放奴隶建立的自治社区也位于希尔顿黑德岛。这里有独特的非洲裔Gullah文化，由非洲奴隶的后裔传承，形成了自己的语言、音乐、艺术和传统。
1956年，查尔斯·弗雷泽（Charles Fraser）开始开发希尔顿黑德岛，建立了第一个环保计划社区Sea Pines Resort。沿着这个可持续发展理念，希尔顿黑德岛的开发严格遵守环保法规，保护了大量的湿地、海岸线和野生动物栖息地。博物馆四周就是一个野生动物保护区，具有典型的美国南方地方特色，可以欣赏到各种鸟类和野生动植物。特别是里面的参天榕树遮天蔽日，树身上披挂着一种叫西班牙苔藓 (Spanish Moss)的藤曼，飘飘洒洒，随风而动，有点像中国古装剧里的罗裙。
除此之外，希尔顿黑德岛有超过60英里的自行车道和众多徒步小径。游客可以享受皮划艇、风帆、划船和深海垂钓等多种水上活动。一不小心，你会看到路边鳄鱼的出没和海龟的探头探脑。一回头，不经意间从树的背后踱出一只蓝鹭，警惕地观察路人。岛上的花草也开得那么绽放别致，带着南方的丰美湿润。阳光从宽大的树叶里透射下来，这一切像个大乐园，让坐在婴儿推车里的小外孙大喜过望，比划着四肢，嘴里含混不清，念念有词地急于同大自然交流。
岛上处处让人惊喜连连，不胜枚举。拍了一些希尔顿黑德岛上的照片，让我们一起来品旅游，学文化。

大道上靠近科利尼海滩（Coligny Beach）。 海龟 海滩边的冲澡池。 鹈鹕 蓝鹭。 路边池塘鳄鱼。 雕塑 海港镇 湿地。 榕树。 西班牙苔藓 覆盖满了苔藻的湖水。 在这里可以骑马。 步道旁。

海洋探索博物馆里的黑人油画展。

【English Version】

A Glimpse of Hilton Head Island Beach Resort

Hilton Head Island, located in South Carolina, USA, is a renowned beach resort known for its beautiful beaches, golf courses, and abundant outdoor activities. In mid-April 2024, we embarked on a journey to Hilton Head Island. Upon arrival, we drove to our reserved vacation home. Along the way, the wetlands and lush forests lining the spacious causeway immediately evoked wonderful memories from two to three decades ago. Back then, the children were young, our careers were just beginning, and we frequently returned to China to visit our aging parents and relatives. Though our family finances were not affluent, we were willing to spend money to take the children around the world, broadening their horizons, which we believed would greatly benefit their growth. We had vacationed on Hilton Head Island three times before, until the children grew up and left home. Reflecting on the past, we suddenly felt how quickly time had flown by, with everything changing so subtly.

Probably because beach vacations during their childhood and teenage years left a deep and beautiful impression on the children, when they had their own families and little ones, they invited us to revisit Hilton Head Island with them. We gladly accepted and took on most of the expenses. We rented a private two-story house near the beach on Forest Beach Drive, close to Coligny Beach. The house had four bedrooms, a living room, and a dining room, with a private heated swimming pool in the backyard. The rental was well-equipped, and the living room was spacious, allowing us to cook our own meals. There were several supermarkets nearby, and we quickly filled the refrigerator to the brim. Hilton Head Island boasts 12 miles of white sandy beaches. Although it was still early in the season, there were already quite a few visitors on the beach. Some were taking walks, some were playing in the water, and others were lounging on beach chairs enjoying the lively ocean and the rolling clouds on the horizon. Various birds, near and far, were busily fishing and searching for shells in the shallows and deeper waters. A flock of gray pelicans, from who knows where, flew over the waves with their comically long beaks, expertly scooping up fish. The sunlight shone on the white sandy beach, and the sea breeze gently blew. We dipped our chubby little grandson's feet into the sea, and as the waves rolled in, he waved his hands and feet excitedly, clapping and shouting, just like his mother did when she was little. His childlike joy was delightful. We hope the vast ocean will leave him with a boundless sense of space and imagination, preparing him to face the challenges of the future world. The area around Coligny Plaza near the beach has a variety of restaurants. After playing to our heart's content, we enjoyed various delicious foods, reminiscing about past visits and sharing amusing anecdotes, our hearty laughter infecting the nearby tables.
Besides the beach, Hilton Head Island has many nature reserves and numerous recreational spots. It is a paradise for golf enthusiasts, with over 20 golf courses, including the famous Harbour Town Golf Links, which hosts the RBC Heritage PGA Tour event every year. The iconic structure in Harbour Town is the lighthouse built in 1969. Climbing to the top offers a panoramic view of the island's surrounding waters and marshlands. It is said that the final shot of the golf tournament always aims towards the lighthouse. The Coastal Discovery Museum is also a worthwhile attraction, offering a wide variety of exhibits. It features information about the local ecosystem and detailed descriptions of the island’s history, which helps in understanding the natural history and cultural heritage of the island. Hilton Head Island was originally inhabited by Native Americans who lived on the island for thousands of years. These early residents included the Shell Ring People, who left numerous archaeological sites. In 1521, Spanish explorer Francisco Gordillo first reached the area. In 1663, British navigator William Hilton explored and named the island. In the early 18th century, British colonists settled on the island, developing agriculture, especially rice and indigo plantations. During the Civil War in 1861, Union forces captured Hilton Head Island in the Battle of Port Royal, using it as a military and medical center. The island is also home to the first self-governed community of freed slaves in American history. Hilton Head Island has a unique African-American Gullah culture, preserved by the descendants of African slaves, characterized by its own language, music, art, and traditions. In 1956, Charles Fraser began developing Hilton Head Island, establishing the first environmentally planned community, Sea Pines Resort. Following this sustainable development concept, Hilton Head Island’s development strictly adheres to environmental regulations, preserving extensive wetlands, coastlines, and wildlife habitats. The museum is surrounded by a wildlife reserve, featuring typical Southern U.S. characteristics, where visitors can enjoy various bird and wildlife species. Especially notable are the towering live oak trees, draped with Spanish Moss, which sways gently in the wind, resembling the flowing robes in ancient Chinese dramas.

In addition, Hilton Head Island boasts over 60 miles of bike paths and numerous hiking trails. Visitors can enjoy various water activities such as kayaking, sailing, boating, and deep-sea fishing. You might even spot an alligator along the roadside or a sea turtle poking its head out. A blue heron might casually stroll out from behind a tree, cautiously observing passersby. The island's flowers and plants bloom beautifully, reflecting the lush, humid southern climate. Sunlight filters through the broad leaves, creating a playground-like atmosphere that delights our little grandson in his stroller, causing him to excitedly gesture and babble, eager to communicate with nature.
The island offers endless surprises and delights. I took some photos of Hilton Head Island. Let's enjoy the journey and learn about the culture together.

2024.05.22. STP16

作者简介
旅行家，作家，兼摄影师，现为美国医学院教授。出版有长篇小说《海鸥教授》，《杜鹃花开》，《玫瑰血》，《生命是用来虚度的》，中篇小说《留学生》，《寒星》，短篇小说《悔恋》，《小倩绝恋》，《年夜》，《真实的谎言》等，并著有大量散文，游记，摄影专集。