川西环线自驾游(3)A wonderful journey to Western Sichuan with my wife by driving ourselves

闻鸡起舞

<p class="ql-block">行程5 理塘-四姑娘山景区,435公里, 车程约9小时,外加中途停车休息时间。</p><p class="ql-block">Section 5 Traveled and enjoyed the tour from Litang to Siguniangshan snow mountains, 435km, 9 hours drive plus extra time for stops and rests on the way m a few times.</p> <p class="ql-block">今天从理塘开车到四姑娘山路途时间比较长。为了赶路,5:30起了个大早,整理好东西,酒店餐厅还没开门也<span style="font-size: 18px;">没吃早餐,</span>6:30理塘的天还没亮(比北京时间时差晚约1小时),我们就开车离开了酒店<span style="font-size: 18px;">(海拔4014m),</span>进入了张孟线,路上还黑灯瞎火呢,个别地方路面结了薄冰,<span style="font-size: 18px;">一路爬坡,</span>小心谨慎驾驶,安全第一。</p><p class="ql-block">7:15 天刚刚亮,煦暖的晨曦几乎与地平线平行地投射过来,为川西高寒山区的早晨增添了温馨浪漫的色彩。我们到了东来二村路边停车休息区,停车<span style="font-size: 18px;">放松</span>一下。停车场建筑物上有一行大字“甘孜州公路建设服务中心.卡子拉山货车司机之家”,更使人心里感觉到暖暖的。</p><p class="ql-block">My wife and I got up early this morning 5:30 before dawn. We left the town Litang at a altitude of 4014 meters about 6:30 in the morning for next destination Siguniangshan snow mountains. It was very dark while we drove along <span style="font-size: 18px;"> the first section of the </span>highway.</p><p class="ql-block">7:15 stopped at the village park for rest a while. </p> <p class="ql-block">继续沿着张孟线-泸聂线(<span style="font-size: 18px;">国道</span>G318)<span style="font-size: 18px;">一路东行</span>, 再次经过天路十八弯、一路下行,轻车熟路,穿行于崇山峻岭h和深川峡谷之中,已经没有了第一次走这里时心里发怵的那种感觉了,正所谓“曾经沧海难为水,除却巫山不是云”。</p><p class="ql-block">8:15 过了卡子拉山垭口,海拔4718米,很快就来到了康巴汉子观景台,海拔4288米。</p><p class="ql-block">瞧,俺也充当一会儿<span style="font-size: 18px;">康巴汉子哈😄</span></p><p class="ql-block">We past over the pass of Kazila Mountains with a altitude of 4718 meters and then stopped at the Viewing Platform of <span style="font-size: 18px;">Kangba Man at a altitude of </span>4288 meters, took photos of the snow mountains in front of us.</p> <p class="ql-block">看雪山、高山原始森林和草原,崇山峻岭,连绵不断,碧空如洗,<span style="font-size: 18px;">风景如画</span>,真让人赞叹不已。</p> <p class="ql-block">318国道是川西运输干线,双向两车道,大卡车、油罐车多。自驾车在陡坡急拐弯处要特别注意对面是否有大卡车、长油罐车过来,大车因为车身超长,拐弯时往往会跨过这边半个车道,而且一般<span style="font-size: 18px;">速度都很快,自驾车需要注意观察避让,以免发生意外</span>。俺每到急弯处总是小心一点慢一点开,牢记百度地图导航常说的一句话“安全才是最重要的交通法则”。</p><p class="ql-block">Should be careful when you meet big oil tanker and trucks at the sharp V-shaped turns on the highway.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">金秋彩林,一路皆美景。</p><p class="ql-block">Beautiful scenery of colorful forests on all the way.</p> <p class="ql-block">又一次路过<span style="font-size: 18px;">康定</span>新都桥,进入国道G248,金秋网红公路。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">又一次经过了<span style="font-size: 18px;">甘孜藏族自治州道孚县</span>八美镇,13:00到了木雅噶达<span style="font-size: 18px;">景区观景台</span>,<span style="font-size: 18px;">4A</span>级景区,高山草甸、河滩和彩林,犹如精致<span style="font-size: 18px;">美丽的</span>油画。</p> <p class="ql-block">进入<span style="font-size: 18px;">国道</span>G 248丹巴秘境环线路段向北行驶,一路上与<span style="font-size: 18px;">雪山、彩林相伴,美不胜收。</span></p> <p class="ql-block">亚拉雪山观景台,海拔3800米。</p> <p class="ql-block">美丽的亚拉雪山近在眼前。</p><p class="ql-block">亚拉雪山,也称<span style="font-size: 18px;">雅拉雪山,</span>藏语全称为“夏学雅拉嘎波”(意为东方白牦牛山),位于四川甘孜州康定、道孚和丹巴三县的交界处,海拔5884米,是康巴地区一座著名的神山,雅拉河即发源于此。</p><p class="ql-block">Yala Snow Mountains with the peak of 5884 Meters above sea level.</p> <p class="ql-block">沿着国道G248中国熊猫大道🐼<span style="font-size: 18px;">北行</span>,穿过丹巴县城,向南进入阿坝小金县。亚拉雪山融化的雪水流入小金川河,<span style="font-size: 18px;">自南向北流到丹巴与大金川河交汇进</span>入大渡河,四姑娘山融化的雪水则流入沃日河,<span style="font-size: 18px;">由北向南</span>流到丹巴汇入大渡河,使得这里的水源极为丰沛,峡谷中溪流潺潺,树林茂密,一派秀美风光。</p> <p class="ql-block">进入小金县,净土阿坝.熊猫家园🐼</p><p class="ql-block">Drove along the Road of Pandas, getting into Aba Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, home of pandas 🐼 </p> <p class="ql-block">穿过小金县城区</p> <p class="ql-block">17:30到达四姑娘山景区酒店,海拔约2900米。小女帮预定的四姑娘山双桥沟民宿,有11间小木屋,依山傍水,幽静恬适,甚好。</p><p class="ql-block">Arrived at Siguniang Mountains at 17:30</p><p class="ql-block">in the afternoon, stayed at the small hotel with accommodation of 11 guest rooms on the riverbank, very beautiful place, and very comfortable hotel. </p> <p class="ql-block">这民宿紧挨着山涧,听流水潺潺,悠然自得。</p> <p class="ql-block">四姑娘山风景名胜区核心景点为双桥沟、长坪沟、海子沟。</p><p class="ql-block">1994年被列为国家重点风景名胜区,1996年被载入国家级自然保护区名录,2001年成为国家首批4A级旅游区,2005年被批准为国家级地质公园。</p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">双桥沟景区</span>双桥沟是四姑娘山三条沟中开发最深入、设施最完善、景色最丰富、游客最多的景区,全长40余公里,<span style="font-size: 18px;">有17个观景点54个景点。</span>景区内全程可乘坐景区观光车,停靠5个站。每个车站的景点都有观光木栈道,适合各类人群观光游玩。</p> <p class="ql-block">进入四姑娘山景区,沟口海拔约2900米,乘坐景区大巴车到最高处景点红杉树站,<span style="font-size: 18px;">爬升至</span>海拔3840米。今天是星期天,瞧这大巴车一辆接一辆的上来,游客还真有点多,据说这周末日游客人数超过了1万人,是川西环线中游客最多的景区。</p><p class="ql-block">Shuangqiaogou tourism spot, and saw the landscapes of Siguniang Mountains with highest peak 6250 meters above the sea level.</p> <p class="ql-block">这里前一天刚下过雪,树阴下地面还有好多积雪。</p><p class="ql-block">It snowed two day ago and we saw a lot of snow in the shadows of forests.&nbsp;</p> <p class="ql-block">下雪过后,天空放晴,阳光、蓝天、白云、雪山和红杉树,构成一道靓丽的风景线。</p><p class="ql-block">It turn to be clear with strong sunshine and blue sky today, so beautiful scenery of the snow mountains colorful forests under blue sky. </p> <p class="ql-block">这里是玉兔峰,海拔5280米。玉兔峰四周海拔4600米左右形成了现代冰川,俗称“万年雪”,是现代雪线的标志。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">雄鹰展翅峰</p> <p class="ql-block">从红杉树站乘坐景区大巴车下行到了布达拉(宫)峰站。<span style="font-size: 18px;">布达拉峰</span>海拔5240米。</p> <p class="ql-block">四姑娘山双桥沟景区视频,雪山环绕,一览众山小。</p><p class="ql-block">Video shot for the snow mountains&nbsp;</p> <p class="ql-block">白度母峰、尖子峰和猎人峰,海拔分别为5400米、5472米和5430米。</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">四川红杉(Larix potaninii),是<span style="font-size: 18px;">我国四川特有树种,一般</span>生长于海拔2300-3500米的四川盆地西北缘高原山地,地处大雪山至邛峡山以东,是国家二级重点保护野生植物,列入《世界自然保护联盟濒危物种红色名录》(IUCN 2010年 ver 3.1)。</p><p class="ql-block">四姑娘山红杉林主要分布于海子沟、长坪沟和双桥沟海拔3200-4300米之间的阴坡中上段,略高于暗针叶林的林线。</p><p class="ql-block">到了深秋季节,<span style="font-size: 18px;">四姑娘山红杉林</span>经风霜雪冻,变成了金黄色的彩林,美不胜收。</p> <p class="ql-block">斯拉古措,海拔3588米,位于猎人峰(海拔5430米)脚下,为古冰川侵蚀形成的冰川悬谷湖泊。澄澈的湖水与雪山彩林倒影,精彩纷呈。</p> <p class="ql-block">隆珠措,是第四纪冰川在四姑娘山景区留下的冰碛(冰川搬运的石头)堰塞湖,湖中的古沙棘树形状奇特,在湖水的倒影与周围雪山彩林构成一幅壮丽画卷,使隆珠措成为双桥沟里景区的一个明星景点。</p> <p class="ql-block">人参果坪景点,海拔3320米 ,高山草甸 。</p><p class="ql-block">Ginseng Fruit Plateau at a altitude of 3320 meters.</p> <p class="ql-block">古老沙棘树,树龄超过540年,当地人称<span style="font-size: 18px;">沙棘为</span>人参果,可食用、药用。</p> <p class="ql-block">古老的沙棘树上结满了橙红色的沙棘果,果浆特别的酸甜,口味浓厚,可生产饮料,晒干可入药。</p> <p class="ql-block">人参果坪景点高山河流上的藏式伸臂桥,其结构、承载力学原理和美学堪称一绝。</p><p class="ql-block">藏式伸臂桥史称“飞桥”,历史悠久,是川西横断山脉山区和青藏高原地区桥梁史上的代表性杰作。伸臂桥集数学、力学、美学于一体,建筑之奇、结构之巧,堪称世界一绝。伸管桥架设方法是从两岸分别层层压木,每一层均用砂石填充,各伸出数尺。当两岸层木相距一丈时,再用大圆木连接为梁。在其上横向密铺长数尺的细圆木作桥面,两端用木钉或牛皮条绑扎固定即成。</p><p class="ql-block">结构独特,悬挑式梁木形成一道粗犷的圆</p><p class="ql-block">弧,这一建筑堪称中国桥染活化石,已被载入中国桥梁建筑大全。</p><p class="ql-block">Overhanging wooden bridge of Tibetan style, invaluable treasure of the Chinese bridge history&nbsp;</p> <p class="ql-block">很多人来四姑娘山游玩都是去双桥沟,景区设施完善,景点多样化,雪山环绕,还有高山湖泊,丰富多彩,但是在<span style="font-size: 18px;">双桥沟里四姑娘山被其他山峰挡住了,看不到四姑娘山四座雪山大峰、二峰、三峰和幺妹峰的尊容。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">要想看到四姑娘山,还需到长坪沟。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">于是,我们</span>第二天8:30从双桥沟酒店出发,开车15分钟,到了四姑娘山长坪沟景区。与双桥沟相比而言,<span style="font-size: 18px;">长坪沟沟口更开阔,山坡林密,彩林更美。小镇有一条街,街面很整齐,有各色风味餐厅和小店铺。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">到了长坪沟景区,需要乘坐景区大巴车上山,下了车,就是四姑娘山长坪沟景区标志性观景台,四姑娘山的四座山峰映入眼帘。</span></p><p class="ql-block">We went to visit Changpinggou tourism spot in the morning of the second day, and saw the beautiful scenery of Siguniang Mountains with highest peak 6250 meters above the sea level.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">长坪沟虽是半开发状态,却是徒步游览四姑娘山的理想路线。1982年,四姑娘山被列为我国十大登山名山之一,<span style="font-size: 18px;">长坪沟</span>被誉为户外徒步登山爱好者的天堂,长29公里,分布有21个景点。</p><p class="ql-block">Hiking along Changpinggou route </p> <p class="ql-block">长坪沟景区开始很长一段路是木栈道,质量上乘。景区游客稀少,很清静。</p><p class="ql-block">景区内雪山和地质地貌多样。沟内<span style="font-size: 18px;">气候独特,</span>沿途流水潺潺,空气湿润,动植物种类丰富,古柏高大挺拔,红杉树枝密叶茂。</p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size: 18px;">四姑娘山靓照,自右向左四位靓丽姑娘依次为:</span>大峰海拔5355米,二峰海拔5454米,三峰海拔5664米,<span style="font-size: 18px;">幺妹峰海拔6247.8米(2023年新公布数据)。</span>幺妹峰为四姑娘山主峰,是邛崃山脉的最高峰,四川第二高峰,被称为“蜀山皇后”,横断山脉第三高峰。几天前在新都桥看到的贡嘎雪山主峰海拔7508.9米(2023年官方最新公布数据),是四川省最高的山峰,被称为“蜀山之王”。</p> <p class="ql-block">步道沿途所见古树参天,尤其是方枝柏树龄高达951年。</p> <p class="ql-block">行至深山老林,山麓密林郁郁葱葱,山涧流水潺潺,处处充满着诗情画意。读宋黄伯思《东观馀论·跋蜀道图后模木》“云势岫色,林谷明霭,皆有逸趣。”随赋诗一首:</p><p class="ql-block">林深不见人,</p><p class="ql-block">清泉石上流。</p><p class="ql-block">雪峰伴我走,</p><p class="ql-block">逸趣乐同游。</p> <p class="ql-block">清澈的溪流潺潺不绝,<span style="font-size: 18px;">风光</span>秀美,人称“东方的阿尔卑斯”。</p> <p class="ql-block">湖光山色,相得益彰。千年树木,虽死犹荣。原始生态,绝美佳境。</p> <p class="ql-block">木栈道结束,开始走山路。</p><p class="ql-block">幽静神秘的原始森林,阳光透过林荫,洒下万缕金光。</p> <p class="ql-block">徒步穿行长坪沟,是远离喧嚣尘念、陶冶性情、锻炼身体的好去处。</p> <p class="ql-block">与马队同道,崎岖不平,部分路段融雪与马粪之间相互搅合,泥泞不堪,马粪臭味熏人。</p> <p class="ql-block">下午13:00 ,下干海子,海拔3505米。</p><p class="ql-block">最佳<span style="font-size: 18px;">摄影点</span>婆缪峰,海拔5413米,为花岗岩尖峰,邛崃山脉最昂扬的山峰。</p><p class="ql-block">高山草甸、湖泊置于群山环抱之中,蓝天、白云、雪山和澄澈的湖水相映成趣。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">两河口冰川,这里是观赏四姑娘山和冰川的最佳位置。<span style="font-size: 18px;">四姑娘山被誉为</span>“蜀山皇后”,"东方的阿尔卑斯"。</p><p class="ql-block">看精彩视频,如同身临其境。</p><p class="ql-block">Video shot for Siguniang snow mountains.</p> <p class="ql-block">四姑娘山以雄峻挺拔闻名,周围有85雪山海拔超过5000米,山体陡峭,冰雪覆盖,银光照人。</p><p class="ql-block">四姑娘山最高峰幺妹峰(海拔6247.8米,2023年新公布数据))和U型谷现代冰川。</p><p class="ql-block">Siguniang Mountains with 85 peaks at altitude over 5000 meters are known as the Eastern Alps, We saw the highest peak of 6250 meters above sea level named as the Youngest Sister Peak , and the modern glaciers in the U-shaped valley.</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">蓝天下幺妹峰峻秀非凡,惊艳四座。</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">18:30回到了酒店,看了一下手环,今日高海拔山路徒步36300步,这是继稻城亚丁之后又一次挑战了体力和耐力的极限。</p><p class="ql-block">晚餐,<span style="font-size: 18px;">两人份</span>:<span style="font-size: 18px;">牦牛肉炒</span>芹菜88元,<span style="font-size: 18px;">麻婆豆腐26元,</span>炝炒圆白菜28元,一共142元。四姑娘山真是个景色瑰丽,而且好吃不贵的好去处。</p><p class="ql-block">My wife and I hiked along Changpinggou route. My wristband pedometer showed 36300 steps for the hiking today. It was great challenge for both of us with age of 65 to hike at the mountain area with altitude about 4000 meters. Anyway it was fine with us although we&nbsp; felt so tired when got back to the hotel at 6:30 in the evening.</p><p class="ql-block">I ordered the foods at the hotel restaurant: stirred yak meat, doufu ( Bean curd ) <span style="font-size: 18px;">with Sichuan hot favor</span> and vegetables, 142 RMB for us two persons, very delicious and cheap. Better but not expensive is&nbsp;my favorite and my philosophy of the life.&nbsp;</p>