2023 TMB Trip(1) - Preface

Lijun Chen

<p class="ql-block">In September 2023, my friend and I arrived in Geneva, Switzerland. We strolled along the shores of Lake Geneva, enjoying the crisp autumn air and the serene blue waters, eagerly anticipating our early morning journey to Chamonix, which was just over an hour's drive away. We had dreamt of this for over a year and spent the better part of six months preparing for our Tour du Mont Blanc hike, so our excitement was palpable!</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">Some say that the Alps are like a colossal mushroom cloud hanging over Italy, and looking at a map, it does seem a bit like that. This magical mountain range is a tremendous gift from nature to the European continent, offering numerous breathtaking landscapes, sporting activities, and unbeatable tourist attractions to the countries it spans. In 2019, my family and I hiked in the Swiss Alps in Wengen, Murren, and Zermatt. In May 2023, we ventured to the northern Italian Dolomites for another hiking adventure. Returning to the Alps with my friend to take on the classic Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) trail, I was genuinely curious about the unique experience that awaited us.</p> <p class="ql-block">The Tour du Mont Blanc, often referred to as TMB, is a classic hiking route that circumnavigates the highest peak in the Alps, Mont Blanc. It stretches for 170 kilometers, with an elevation gain of 10,000 meters, crossing three countries: France, Switzerland, and Italy. Along the way, hikers can admire ancient glaciers, towering peaks, lush meadows, pastoral landscapes, charming villages, and picturesque villages. This trail has been ranked by National Geographic Magazine as one of the 50 must-do treks in a lifetime.</p> <p class="ql-block">A typical Mont Blanc hike takes around 7-11 days and can be done independently or with a guided tour. During our initial research, we found that independent hiking required extensive planning, including studying maps, carefully scheduling daily itineraries, and booking accommodations in mountain refuges along the route. Failing to secure suitable refuges would mean either walking extra distances or finding alternative transportation to reach lodging. Opting for a guided tour, on the other hand, meant having a knowledgeable guide, all accommodations and meals included, and the convenience of daily luggage transport by the tour company. This allowed us to carry only a small backpack with essential items like rain gear, water, lunch, and other necessities.</p><p class="ql-block">In the end, we decided to join a guided TMB tour in September with Altitude Mont Blanc (https://www.altitude-montblanc.com/), which lasted nine days and followed the clockwise route around Mont Blanc. It turned out to be a wise decision in hindsight.</p> <p class="ql-block">Because it was a guided tour, our itinerary was quite straightforward:</p><p class="ql-block">Day 1: Fly to Geneva.</p><p class="ql-block">Day 2: Arrive in Geneva around noon, take a train to the city center, walk to the hostel, and spend half a day exploring Geneva.</p><p class="ql-block">Day 3: Take a FlixBus from Geneva to Chamonix, a journey of about one and a half hours. In the afternoon, visit the Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix and explore the beautiful town in the evening.</p><p class="ql-block">Day 4: The first day of the TMB hike. Starting point: Fa Flegere Cable Car at Le Praz.</p><p class="ql-block">Day 12: The last day of the hike, with the endpoint at Prarion Cable Car at Les Houches. Take a SwissTours bus back to Geneva Airport and stay at a nearby hotel.</p><p class="ql-block">Day 13: Return from Geneva.</p> <p class="ql-block">The preparation work before hiking essentially involved continuing our regular fitness routine: daily speed walks or jogs to build endurance, upper and lower body strength training every other day, and occasional uphill load-bearing exercises. As for equipment, the main gear and tools that the two of us brought included:</p><p class="ql-block">1. eBag Mother Lode Travel Backpack: This was recommended by a colleague who frequently travels to Europe. It served as carry-on luggage and had been tested during our May trip to Italy. It proved to have a large capacity and convenient access, making it ideal for travel that doesn't involve backpacking.</p><p class="ql-block">2. A Backpack: We each had either an Osprey Mira Hydration Pack 32L or a Gregory Mountain Products Juno Hiking Backpack 30L. The Osprey backpack is known for its comprehensive features and design, including a built-in hydration pack, making it a top choice for hikers. However, it's slightly larger and heavier than the Gregory pack. Since the Osprey couldn't fit into the Mother Lode Travel Bag, I reluctantly chose the Gregory pack. During plane rides and non-hiking segments of the trip, I could easily fit the Gregory backpack into the larger travel bag, simplifying transportation.</p><p class="ql-block">3. Sun Protection Gear: While September's weather isn't extremely sunny, we knew we'd be exposed to strong UV rays in the mountainous terrain every day. So, we made sure to bring essential sun protection items, including sunscreen, sunglasses, and a wide-brimmed hat.</p><p class="ql-block">4. Waterproof Hiking Gear: We packed waterproof hiking boots (as regular water-resistant boots can get soaked in heavy rain), a rain jacket, a pair of lightweight rain pants (or waterproof hiking pants), and a backpack rain cover. Some people also brought rain ponchos, which proved to be a good idea.</p><p class="ql-block">5. Clothing: Our clothing choices included three dry-fit short-sleeve shirts, three long-sleeve dry-fit shirts, a thin down jacket, three pairs of hiking socks (Costco often has wool hiking socks in the fall), 2-3 pairs of hiking pants (we recommend good hiking pants that are water-resistant and breathable; Columbia Hiking Pants worked well), quick-dry underwear (non-cotton), and a pair of lightweight sandals suitable for short walks (mountain refuges typically provide flip-flops).</p><p class="ql-block">6. Miscellaneous Items: We packed several travel hangers and clips (available in Temu), a clothesline (two long shoelaces can serve as an alternative), and a lightweight, quick-dry towel (as some mountain refuges may not provide towels).</p><p class="ql-block">Electronic Gear: Included power adapters (European Travel Plug Adapter), phone chargers, and an airplane-approved power bank (most airlines allow power banks with a capacity of up to 27,000mAh).</p><p class="ql-block">7. First-Aid Kit: We carried a small first-aid kit with items like band-aids, alcohol wipes, Neosporin, etc.</p><p class="ql-block">8. Sleeping Liner: We brought a Sea to Summit Premium Blend Silk/Cotton liner. This compact liner, roughly the size of a smartphone when folded, was ideal for nights spent in mountain refuges with uncertain bedding conditions. It's made from durable, lightweight, and comfortable fabric, offering warmth and peace of mind. We also had a thin pillowcase.</p><p class="ql-block">9. Hiking Poles: While I typically don't use hiking poles, I found them helpful, especially during steep ascents and descents in the latter part of the hike.</p><p class="ql-block">10. Water Bottles: We made sure to carry water bottles (if your backpack doesn't have a hydration pack). It's essential to have a minimum of two liters of water with you each day.</p><p class="ql-block">11. SIM Cards: We purchased the appropriate SIM cards on airalo.com. Please note that these eSIM cards can only be used with unlocked phones.</p> <p class="ql-block">Compared to other Swiss cities, Geneva may seem somewhat lacking in terms of tourist attractions. Online travel guides typically mention popular places such as Lake Geneva, the Jet d'Eau (the large fountain), the United Nations headquarters, and St. Pierre Cathedral. Geneva is well-known for its chocolate, and this year they have introduced a Choco Pass, which allows you to spend 30 Swiss Francs to sample delicious chocolates from seven famous chocolate shops within 24 hours, learn about their craftsmanship, and receive a small gift bag. It sounds like an interesting activity, but my friend and I are concerned about our glucose so decided not to participate.</p><p class="ql-block">Although it might not be as famous as other European historic cities, leisurely strolling at the beautiful shores of Lake Geneva, however, with its majestic Jet d'Eau, sailboats dotting the surface, Geneva offers a tranquil and picturesque setting. The streets are clean and orderly, and the city is peaceful and beautiful. Moreover, Geneva is not far from charming towns and stunning mountains in the surrounding area. If you're not in a rush and don't feel the need to chase after tourist attractions, it's safe to say that Geneva is a city where one can enjoy living and I think I would fall in love with it given the time to explore and appreciate at my own pace.</p> <p class="ql-block">On the street, a performer set off a frenzy with their giant soap bubbles, which attracted kids running around joyfully and trying to catch the bubbles. Their contagious laughter spread to the onlookers, creating a heartwarming scene that brought smiles to everyone's faces.</p> <p class="ql-block">Geneva is renowned as a hub for Swiss watchmaking. In 1955, the city created the world's largest clock made entirely of flowers, known as the Geneva Flower Clock (in French, "L'horloge fleurie"). This iconic timepiece has become one of the main attractions in Geneva, highlighting the city's craftsmanship and appreciation for precision and beauty in timekeeping.</p> <p class="ql-block">The headquarter of United Nations:</p> <p class="ql-block">When traveling in Europe, I enjoy the cool and clean drinking water fountains along the streets. I see a great level of humanity, social civilization, and material civilization in the non-stop flow of water.</p> <p class="ql-block">The Cathedral of St. Pierre (Cathédrale St-Pierre) stands at the highest point in the city center and is one of Geneva's essential landmarks. The cathedral's construction began in the 5th century, and over the subsequent centuries, it underwent continuous reconstruction and expansion projects. Starting in the Romanesque style, it later incorporated elements of both Gothic and Romanesque architecture, resulting in its present unified and harmonious architectural style. During the 16th century, it also became a focal point for the Protestant Reformation in the French-speaking area, with the prominent figure John Calvin using it as a place to promote the doctrines of the Reformed faith.</p> <p class="ql-block">The famous rotating roasted meat dishes from Greece and Turkey have flavors that align well with the preferences of Chinese people. These dishes can be served with salads, used in sandwiches, and are used to make Gyros and Kabobs. The day we arrived happened to be one of their national holidays, and many shops were closed. The Greek/Turkish roasted meat, however, gave us a pleasant surprise with the incredibly delicious sandwiches:</p> <p class="ql-block">We stayed at Geneva Hostel, a neat youth hostel conveniently located in the city center. They provided the Geneva City Transport Card, which meant we didn't need to purchase tickets for public transportation (it can be used for trains, buses, and ferries). The hostel also offered a complimentary breakfast. We booked a suite that came with a private shower and a balcony. From the balcony, looking at those sailboats on Lake Geneva and enjoying the cool September breeze was indeed a wonderful experience.</p> <p class="ql-block">Looking forward to setting off for Chamonix tomorrow!</p> <p class="ql-block"><br></p><p class="ql-block">To be continued. Thanks for reading!</p>