<p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">这次在布拉格选择住在老城对面的The Lesser Quarter，MOOo by the Castle，一家精致的Apartments，喜欢得不愿离开。晚上溜达到Charles Bridge经过圣尼古拉教堂，广场上人们吃饭散步，虽然三月初还挺冷，这边还算热闹。几天出出入入都看着教堂的圆顶。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">要去机场前的早上，自己再次溜达到Prague Castle，看St. Vitus Cathedral 早七点有mass，但7:30走到门口没见人。问了卫兵对方说不知道，又问了两位工作人员，都建议我去问信息台。周六的大早上能开门吗？我也没去试，就看着圆顶返回，溜达到St. Nicholas Church。先进星巴克吃了croissant，等教堂九点开门进去，然后回旅馆拿行李叫Bolt（非常便宜）赶往机场。另：在布拉格三晚听了两场歌剧，都是Bolt叫车，从老城到Lesser Quarter的旅馆分别是135和95捷克crown （相当于$4-$6）。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">有趣的是一位Bolt司机小帅哥跟我聊了一路，介绍布拉格去哪玩。从老城回我们旅馆车辆每次必经警察检查，小哥解释说是美国和德国使馆所在地（见图）。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">圣尼古拉教堂是欧洲最美的巴洛克式教堂之一，里面金碧辉煌、雕塑精美，壁画讲述从尼古拉到圣本笃时期的生活场景，展示了捷克雕塑艺术。1746年莫扎特在布拉格时在此演奏，二战期间捷克军队曾驻扎在这里，现在的夏天也举行音乐会。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">看过捷克最近几十年的历史得知捷克人目前是least religious，偏偏布拉格遍布历史悠久造型独特的教堂，是游客养着这些古迹吧？另一感慨是无论二战时希特勒或几十年后的苏联都没有摧毁这些建筑，听过希特勒尤其钟爱布拉格、还把宝贝都存于此（有待查证）</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">“希特勒决定在布拉格建立一个“ 灭绝种族博物馆”。出于这个原因，他收集了来自被占领国家的贵重物品，并在此收集到了欧洲最多的属于犹太民族的收藏品。”</span></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://travel.ifeng.com/world/detail_2015_07/19/41073259_0.shtml" target="_blank" style="font-size:20px;">希特勒都舍不得毁掉的城市</a></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">。这一篇先把最后进的教堂贴出来。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">更多介绍见链接</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">https://www.prague.fm/zh-hans/7185/圣尼古拉大教堂st-nicholas-church/</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">往返Lesser town必经的车辆检察岗。“The Lesser Quarter (or “Malá Strana” in Czech) is one of the most historic districts in all of Prague. Often called “Lesser Town”, the area’s name comes from its position on the west bank of the Vltava River, just below the Prague Castle and its grounds, and across the Charles Bridge from the larger New and Old Town areas.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">Though the district is one of the oldest in Prague, Baroque architecture dominates the area due to fires destroying much of the original architecture in 1541. The area offers a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle across the bridge, with lots of picturesque alleyways and winding cobblestone streets.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">Visitors to the area should be sure to check out Wallenstein Palace, a wonderful Baroque era building with five courtyards and a French-style garden. The palace currently houses the Czech Senate. Among the many churches in Malá Strana, St. Nicholas Church is perhaps the finest and most prominent with its wonderful apotheosis of St. Nicholas set in the dome of the church.</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">Any trip to Prague must include a stroll across the Charles Bridge to the quiet charm and beauty of the Lesser Quarter.”</span></p><p class="ql-block"><a href="https://www.welcometoprague.eu/lesser-quarter" target="_blank" style="font-size:20px;">The Lesser Quarter 介绍</a></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">住处MOOo by the Castle 别致的院子布置。细心的旅馆人员还给我们手写欢迎卡片以及送了红酒🍷。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">布置精心的Apartments，令人不愿离开。写了Google、 booking、trip advisor review。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">前台可以帮助叫出租，但Bolt更便宜又快捷。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">3/11/2023 早上独自走到Prague Castle，空无一人。 </span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">St. Vitus Cathedral：看介绍早七点有mass，但或许7:30已经结束，或许我没找到入口，没看到。3/8/2023已经来过一次，那时工作人员正准备第二天总统就职（后续）。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">料峭春寒，还有小雪花飘下。在Castle顶部看Lesser Quarter红屋顶的景致，怎么看也看不够，不禁再次感叹虽然捷克近百年来几易其手，统治者（入侵者）并未毁坏历代建筑，使得布拉格成为欧洲最吸引世界各地旅游者的城市之一。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">从Castle顶部看Lesser Town全景</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">建筑微雕公园</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">望着St Nicholas教堂圆顶从Castle走回中心，进星巴克小憩，等早九点刚开门就进去，没有游客，因对这些精美的雕塑、壁画等等一时间不够了解，只能看个大概，留底以后学习吧。</span></p><p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">布拉格游记以倒叙开始，待慢慢回味，以飨读者。</span></p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">圣尼古拉教堂内部小视频</span></p> <p class="ql-block">Castle </p> <p class="ql-block"><span style="font-size:20px;">布拉格被称为City of 1000 Spires 大概来源于St Vitus Cathedral 的尖塔。</span></p>