体验土耳其（3）：看古今 — Istanbul故事仍在上演

路口等你

探人生（第一篇）和玩心跳（第二篇）无法跟了解当地历史文化割裂。从2010年上海世博会看到土耳其馆就惦记着，如今在土耳其各地体验，起伏的地貌、历史的更迭、文化的交汇都时时展现在眼前流动于耳际，回来之后仍在学习。而随着时间的沉淀，网红打卡的照片已渐渐淡漠，反而是对所到之处的后续研究使我对宗教、种族间的征战与磨合越发感兴趣。比如，土耳其人敬仰的凯末尔在希腊人心中是什么形象？那被导游们淡化的一百年前土耳其和希腊人口交换的背景又有多少？被当作tourist attraction的希腊村ghost town有多少血泪？

Istanbul这座迷人的城市似乎汇集了这些矛盾体，而把它放在时间长河、人类博弈的背景下，一切又有着缘由。比如，令我最难忘的是Ayasofya又于2020年8月重新被作为了清真寺，而同时St. Antoine Church 门前陈列着Francis of Assisi 冒生命危险跨越十字军东征线会见埃及苏丹的历史，以纪念不同宗教与种族的交流。这座城市又会给后人留下什么样的故事？

希腊土耳其矛盾

天主教穆斯林关系

此篇因有照片集锦就不在配图上下功夫了，而名胜简介也只贴了链接，着重双脚丈量Istanbul的流水账和简单思考。

体验土耳其（1）：探人生

体验土耳其（2）：玩心跳

人口近一千五百五十万，是纽约2.7陪的Istanbul必须单独成文。历史缘故，虽然土耳其大部分位于亚洲，却把自己当欧洲国家，比如Istanbul被称作欧洲人口最多的城市。在亿万富翁数量排行榜上列第四位。

亿万富翁排行榜

源自东亚的民族对欧洲的影响

11/20晚: Istanbul攻略是儿子做的。下飞机当晚去Saltanahmet Square看夜景（注意古埃及的方尖碑等等）、a small bazaar，晚餐时近距离观察whirling dervish 表演。与其说是表演不如称ceremony，因为有宗教背景。虽然难免商业化，但因我座位就在旁边，看到舞者面部祥和的表情，儿子和我很被吸引。想到之前听到Rick Steves访谈里土耳其导游对13世纪波斯诗人哲人Rumi（a Sufi mystic, a dervish himself）的崇拜以及他对后人的影响。他的诗被编成二哥传唱。接下来的音乐和演唱都非常精彩，我们坐旁边也没少互动。

Sultanahmet Square

11/21 从早上宾馆顶楼早餐赏日出，去Istanbul Archeological Museum, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Süleymaniye Mosque, 到了grand bazaar周日关门，绕着Istanbul University 围墙走了一圈（不让进）。

Süleymaniye Mosque高居Istanbul七个山坡之一的顶部，俯瞰Golden Horn，虽然不是最大却是最雄伟美丽的一个清真寺。

Süleymaniye Mosque 简介

最令我萦绕在心的是Hagia Sophia （土耳其语 Ayasofya）, 这座见证了历史变迁的雄伟建筑（在意大利圣彼得大教堂建成前是最大的教堂）有多少故事，从下面两段可窥一斑，而最近的就是2020年8月被现在的领导人重新变为清真寺。

Built in 537 as the patriarchal cathedral of the imperial capital of Constantinople, it was the largest Christian church of the eastern Roman Empire (the Byzantine Empire) and the Eastern Orthodox Church, except during the Latin Empire from 1204 to 1261, when it became the city's Latin Catholic cathedral. In 1453, after the Fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire, it was converted into a mosque. In 1935, under the direction of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the secular Republic of Turkey established it as a museum. In 2020, under the direction of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, it re-opened as a mosque.

This redesignation is controversial, invoking condemnation from the Turkish opposition, UNESCO, the World Council of Churches, the Holy See, and many other international leaders. In August 2020, he also signed the order that transferred the administration of the Chora Church to the Directorate of Religious Affairs to open it for worship as a mosque. Initially converted to a mosque by the Ottomans, the building had then been designated as a museum by the government since 1934.

历代战乱毁坏了多少建筑以及文物，奥斯曼帝国却保留了Sophia教堂，把它用作清真寺期间用石膏覆盖了浮雕，只在外面盖了宣礼塔，才使无价之宝能被展示给世人。

11/21 刚在水边晚餐水烟袋赏夜景后，溜达夜里Istanbul小巷，没有了游人的喧闹。回到旅馆后儿子还要去溜街头，看着grandma做大饼又饿了，走在美食街上被好多饭馆拉着看菜单，我已经走到街尾，儿子过来告诉一家老板给他折扣，被我所在的店主听到说要给更好的待遇。没想到吃饭也给折扣呢，也就不好意思再bargain，看了pottery lamb kebab帅哥的表演，跟他聊了一阵。

11/22 当年读Dan Brown小说时想按图索骥 Basilica Cistern 遗憾暂时关闭，只能以后再寻美杜莎（Medusa）了。

地下水宫

Basilica Cistern 拜占庭文明

旅馆出来转角到了有1600年历史的Theodosius Cistern（水宫）美轮美奂的灯光秀讲述历史文化风情（有耶稣和凯末尔等影像）。只有身临其境才能体会，所以不建议看太多视频（存底），包括YouTube上的，给自己一个惊喜吧。

Theodosius Cistern介绍

https://www.serefiyesarnici.istanbul

看完水宫灯光秀，去了正在修建的Blue Mosque，因事先看了两位女生的视频知道不需要花时间在里面，就赶去New Mosque、Rutem Pasha Mosque，路过了前一天关闭的大巴扎（underwhelmed ）、广场、Eminönü渡口、奔着Galata Tower和儿子热衷的Taksim Square。经过满是垂钓者的Galata Bridge，一路爬坡到了历史悠久的Galata Tower，看了现代土耳其国父凯末尔葬礼的图片（前文有介绍他）。

Galata Tower 简介

下了Tower，在去Taksim Square的路上去了两家颇有历史的教堂，燃了蜡烛🕯️。

1. The Church of Santa Maria Draperis, located in the vibrant pedestrian street “Istiklal Caddesi”, is one of the oldest and most beautiful churches in Istanbul. However, it remains hidden next to the fame of the Saint Antoine de Padoue Church, which lies a bit further away. A staircase leads down to the entrance, which is located behind iron gates.

https://istanbul-tourist-information.com/en/experience-istanbul/places-of-worship-in-istanbul/church

2. Istanbul最大的罗马天主教堂之一：著名的Saint Antoine Catholic Church

“Saint Antoine was a Portuguese Catholic priest who lived in between the years 1195 and 1231 under the disciple of St. Francis of Assisi. He was known for his being a miracle worker, as well as the patron saint of finding people and things.”

恰好听了Rick Steves讲 St. Francis of Assisi的生平，以及在意大利Assisi常被信徒朝拜的 Basilica of St. Assisi. 富家出身的他舍弃世俗舒适遵从基督教导以及简朴生活方式的短暂一生应该是信徒朝拜的重要因素之一，而其中一点就是他会见埃及苏丹展示坚定信仰的事迹。

八百年前，血腥的第五次十字军东征时期，两位坚定自己信仰的领袖会面是什么样子？2019年世界各地都有纪念活动。

这所教堂前的照片讲述了此过程。

教堂简介

还被拍成了纪录片

纪录片简介

800 years ago, the unlikely meeting in 1219 of two men of strong faith, considered polar opposites – St. Francis of Assisi, the poor and humble Italian Catholic friar, and Sultan of Egypt al-Malik al-Kamil, the ruler of the Ayyubid Sultanate centered in Egypt. It was an encounter of peace between a Christian and Muslim in the midst of the bloody Fifth Crusades.

八百多年前St Frances and Sultan的会面

这一天直到三点半才吃饭。因为儿子要坐下才能吃饭，我是赶路走着都能吃的主，我俩一路上想着到下个点儿再说，就吃点零食继续。

因前一天看Topkapi Palace读到很多宝贝都在Domabahçe Palace, 想赶过去，一看周一关门。粗心的娘俩分别把巴扎和皇宫的时间表忽略，也算扯平了。

有了体力一路到了Taksim广场（underwhelmed）。儿子心中的大概是个年轻人喜欢的chic place，到了一看颇有失望。而我看着雕塑不远处一方形建筑高兴地说这个广场简直和哈尔滨博物馆一带太像了！而后者中间也是类似形状的雕塑；那建筑和北方剧场如出一辙。要说真是情不自禁想起家乡：地标圆顶的索菲亚大教堂、博物馆一带、江畔公园。因哈尔滨有一些俄式建筑，我才格外觉得Istanbul亲切。

其实吃饭时我在google map上sightseeing near me已经看到了Taksim square的照片，只是没想先给儿子过目。他倒是觉得走几条时髦街道的过程比目的地更好玩。

又去了一处小山顶的清真寺，找到了Colorful Stairs and Instagrammable Wall 这俩网红地儿，回到水边已经很累了。正犹豫是走路过桥还是坐轮渡时，我看到了Bosphorus cruise。儿子做攻略时原本是想白天做这个三小时的轮渡，中间下船去castle。但我们一查因疫情，这条线不开。售票厅一问夜里有个90分钟的cruise，就又把疲乏都脑后直接买票了。

我俩坐水边台阶上等着，看着一位男士用个简易炉子烧水准备卖茶水，有条不紊，旁边一个露台，也许夜里有演出？

上了游船，两岸美景尽收眼底！还看到了没时间去参观的castle。

做游船前累得无法再走路的双腿又来了精神，没见出租，也没想用biTaksi叫车，又走回了旅馆。准备早上4点起床去机场（另成文）。

印象中Istanbul所剩的基督教和犹太教的痕迹不多，看了下面简介感到了这所城市里宗教的多元化。可是如前所述，看着Ayasofia的变迁想着这些教堂今后又会见证些什么？

教皇为Ayasofia又被改为清真寺而痛苦

There are numerous churches from different denominations in Istanbul such as Catholic, Lutheran, Orthodox, Armenian, Protestant and Syrian churches, which are used and run by the local Christian communities of Istanbul.

The historical urban development contributes significantly to the fact that a religious diversity like this still prevails in Istanbul.

Istanbul的教堂

下篇Cappadocia可以看出早期基督教的影响。

Cappadocian Christianity started in the first century. The first Jesus-followers in the region were actually Jews who visited Jerusalem during Pentecost in 33 AD (Acts 2). They heard the apostle Peter preach, received the Holy Spirit, and returned to Cappadocia as “Messianic Jews.” Then around 62 AD, the letter of 1 Peter was written to Christians in Cappadocia, so indirectly confirms a first-century church presence.

“The Church is designed by Giulio Mongeri and Eduardo de Nari, the two well-known architects in neo-Gothic style. If we look at the façade, we’ll see that it reflects the 14th century tuscanlombard style and with a latin cross shaped building.”

注：St. Francis of Assisi 是基督教最受崇敬的人物之一。纽约也有教堂。旧金山因此得名。

San Francisco：named in Spanish for St. Francis of Assisi; the name first recorded in reference to this region 1590s, reinforced by long association of the area with the Franciscan order.

加州另一城市Santa Clara （以Francis 最早的跟随者之一，Clare of Assisi命名，见Order of Poor Sisters ）, Los Angeles.

Francis of Assisi简介

11/30上午

Dolmabahçe 是土耳其最大的皇宫，奥斯曼帝国建筑的代表，还融汇了其他几种风格。儿子和我改了从Izmir到Istanbul凌晨4:40的飞机票，Antigen test后寄存了行李，就坐出租奔着它来。

皇宫占地4万5千平方米，有285个房间、46个走廊、68个卫生间，里面的水晶灯和各种宝藏更是精美。不由想到奥斯曼土耳其帝国曾经拥有550万平方公里的土地，是现在土耳其的七八倍，而建此宫殿恰逢衰败期间。

Dolmabahçe Palace 简介

世界上最漂亮的皇宫之一

而Dolmabahçe Mosque又在下雨时收留了疲乏的母子俩还有另一位躺在地上休息的男士。前文写过工作人员看到我坐在女性祷告间就没有进来吸地。我们也捐赠了一点。期间我冒雨拍到了隔博斯普鲁斯海峡看对岸日出、海鸥翻飞的独特魅力。Istanbul在儿子和我心中的地位被最后一天早上的风景再次拔高。之前儿子都想改机票再转几天这座迷人的城市，还有亚洲区的古老Castle，bustling districts housing mosques, churches and synagogues 等等没仔细体会呢。

Dolmabahçe Mosque

Istanbul风情集锦（1）

Istanbul 风情集锦（2）

下面是11/22的笔记存底

去了正在修缮的The Blue Mosque, The New Mosque and the Rustem Pasha Mosque, 赶上prayer。Rutem Pasha Mosque tile设计加入了中国蓝白相间的元素。https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rüstem_Pasha_Mosque

The designs combined traditional Ottoman arabesque patterns with Chinese elements. The change was almost certainly a result of active intervention and patronage by the recently established Ottoman court in Istanbul who greatly valued Chinese blue-and-white porcelain. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iznik_pottery

Mimar Sinan 建筑师介绍

He is considered the greatest architect of the classical period of Ottoman architecture and has been compared to Michelangelo, his contemporary in the West.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mimar_Sinan

他最有名的设计是Suleymaniye Mosque，也葬在其旁边。

As with other imperial mosques in Istanbul, the Süleymaniye Mosque was designed as a külliye, or complex with adjacent structures to service both religious and cultural needs. The original complex consisted of the mosque itself, a hospital (darüşşifa), primary school, public baths (hamam), a caravanserai, four Qur'an schools (medrese), a specialized school for the learning of hadith, a medical college, and a public kitchen (imaret) which served food to the poor. Many of these structures are still in existence, and the former imaret is now a noted restaurant. The former hospital is now a printing factory owned by the Turkish Army.

Just outside the mosque walls, to the north is the tomb of architect Sinan.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Süleymaniye_Mosque