Taiwan, A Gem On The Pacific Ocean，寶島台灣（上）

念怡

We visited Taiwan in the spring of 2019, and had a 14-day self-driving trip.

It was a little wet in the April of Taiwan.

As the first visit to Taiwan, we toured Taipei, Sun-Moon Lake, Alishan, Taroko, Hualien, Jiufen and other central and northern areas of Taiwan. The itinerary was a little tight but we really enjoyed it!

Before the trip, many of our Taiwanese friends kindly opposed our self-driving plan. We were told that the narrow roads there were full of motorcycles and pedestrians. “With such well developed public transportation, it is really not a good idea to risk yourselves”, they said. However, considering the heavy gear of photo equipments and other factors, we decided to take the chance. It was hard, but fortunately we made it.

我們在桃花盛開的四月來到嚮往已久的寶島台灣，開始了為期14天的遊歷和攝影。

四月的台灣乍暖還寒，雖未正式進入雨季，但陰雨的天氣依然頗多。

作為首次台灣行，我們主要走訪了台北、日月潭、阿里山、清境、太魯閣、花蓮、宜蘭、九份等中、北部地區。行程十分匆忙，可謂走馬觀花。即使這樣，寶島的青山綠水和高度文明還是給我們留下了至為美好的印象。

此次游台，我們採取的照例是自駕行。行前諸多好友皆反對這一自駕計劃，告知台灣路窄人多，外來人員自駕行駛弊多利少。且公共交通發達，何苦趨害避利？但我們慮及攝影器材繁重及其他因素，仍決定鋌而走險。此行雖然挑戰重重，慶幸我們還是堅持了下來。

Our first stop was the prestigious Grand Hotel in Taipei. This is the former state guesthouse built by the former First Lady, Soong Meiling. Today it is a four-star hotel which by itself is an attraction in Taiwan； It has the unique beauty of the Chinese culture and architectural style.

我們首先來到的是久負盛名的圓山大飯店。這是蔣夫人宋美齡主建的、曾經的國賓館，今天这是一座四星级民用賓館。它外觀綺麗，集華夏文化和建築美學於一身，令人赏心悦目。

圓山飯店的內部華麗而典雅。

The interior of the hotel is grand and elegant.

从圆山饭店远眺台北101

View of Taipei 101 from the Grand Hotel.

During our stay, the Grand Hotel was hosting a Russian Culture Festival. There were performances by a Russian youth art ensemble. Their devoted and superb performances awed everyone there.

我們下榻期間，正值圓山飯店舉辦俄羅斯文化節，每天有兩次俄羅斯少年歌舞團的演出。孩子們極其認真、極其投入的演出，以及美妙的俄羅斯旋律，看得中外觀眾們如痴如醉。

The next day we went to the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall in the center of Taipei to pay tribute to the legacy of the former president of the Republic of China. This is one of the most important icons and most visited attractions In Taiwan.

次日我們來到台北市中心的中正紀念堂，瞻仰中華民國前**蔣公中正的遺容。這里是台灣最受矚目的地標性建築和觀光地點之一。

网络资料照片⬇️

Photo from the web

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Is a magnificent building on a big land (250,000 square meters).

It has two levels with Cultural Exhibition Hall, movie room, art gallery, Zhongzheng Library, Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Room, etc. At the center of the top floor is the statue of Chiang Kai-shek. The statue is 6.3 meters high with Chiang's will engraved on the base.

All affairs of the memorial hall are carried out by volunteers, which is very touching.

中正紀念堂佔地寬廣（250000平方米）、高屋建瓴、恢宏肅穆。

正堂分上下两层，内有文物展示室、电影室、艺廊、中正图书馆、蒋介石纪念室等。顶楼后方居中则为蒋介石的坐姿铜像，铜像高6.3米，基座上刻有蒋的遗训。铜像两旁驻守着卫兵，每个小时均定时有换班仪式。

諾大的建築机构，内外事物（包括参观接待）全部靠義工維持，令人震撼和感動！

As the first president of the Republic of China, Chiang Kai-shek created the “Ten Golden Years” (1928 - 1937) that was an important era in the modern history of China, in which the country had a big leap in education and economy.

During the Second World War, President Jiang led the Chinese people and fought an arduous eight-year resistance war against the Japanese invasion and won the final victory.

Despite losing the civil war, Chiang Kai-shek and his National Party rewrote the history of modern China and East Asia.

The Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall was designed by Yang Zhuocheng, the chief architect of the Grand Hotel. The top of the building is “Temple of Heaven” and the body a pyramid. The colors of the exterior are mainly blue and white, symbolizing "freedom and equality."

The roof of the building is an octagon representing the eight virtues in Chinese culture: "loyalty, respect, benevolence, love, honesty, righteousness, harmony, and peace."

中正紀念堂採用圓山大飯店的設計者楊卓成的設計：天壇之頂、金字塔之體，外表以藍、白兩色為主调，象徵「自由、平等」。紀念堂建於3層寬廣基礎之上，平面为方形，以寓「中正」之意。堂頂為八角，代表著「忠、孝、仁、愛、信、義、和、平」等八德。

⬆️ 紀念堂外的自由廣場

Liberty Square in the back of the Memorial Hall

广场两侧美麗的植物園⬇️

There is a 80 m wide and 30m tall archway at the end of the square with the four characters of "Liberty Square" on it.

Between the archway and the memorial hall are the wide Liberty Avenue and Liberty Square. There are often cultural events and welcoming ceremonies for foreign leaders held here on the square.

⬆️ 广场的一端有宏偉的四字牌樓，上書「自由廣場」（2007年以前原為「大中至正」，出處是王陽明的傳習錄：「粹然大中至正之歸矣。」 ）

在紀念堂主體建築和四字牌樓之間是寬大的自由大道和自由廣場。广场上常常舉辦大型藝文活動和外國元首訪華的歡迎儀式。

⬆️On either sidr of the Freedom Square, there are also the National Theater and National Concert Hall.

⬆️自由廣場的两側还建有國家表演藝術中心國家兩廳院管理的國家戲劇院和國家音樂廳。

Not far from the Memorial Hall, there is SHi-Lin House, that is the official residence of the former President Jiang Kai-shek. It was designated as a national monument in 2005. The property with the well designed large gardens attracted many visitors each year.

步出中正紀念堂，开车不远便是蒋前总统的故居士林官邸。这里于2005年被指定為國定古蹟，大型的庭院绿树成荫、鸟语花香，前来参观的人摩肩接踵。

蒋介石故居

Former residence of President Jiang Kai-shek. 

Also in The same district, is the National Palace Museum, which is the largest museum in Taiwan. In 2015, it was ranked as the sixth most visited art museum in the world.

同在士林區的是台灣故宮博物院，這是全台灣最大的博物館。2015年被列為全球參觀人數第六多的藝術博物館。

故宮博物院完整地收藏了國畫大師張大千的傳世之作

The Palace Museum has a complete art collection of the masterpieces by Zhang Daqian.

台北夜市

Night market of Taipei

台灣的夜市和大排檔非常多，其中最負盛名的是台北的士林夜市。在這裡你可以享受到價廉物美、種類無限的台灣美食。

琳琅滿目、一望無際的大排檔令我們有點無所適從。最後品嘗了久聞大名的蚵仔煎（台灣話叫wo-a-jian），果然名不虛傳。⬇️

There are many night markets and food stalls in Taiwan, but the most famous one is the Shilin Market in Taipei. Here you can enjoy a great variety of Taiwanese cuisines with reasonable prices and good quality.

The dazzling array of food stalls was a little confusing. We finally selected the well-known oyster pancake (wo-a-jian). It was really remarkable ⬇️

北投是台北市最北边的一个行政区，也是著名的温泉之乡。几乎每个旅馆都有温泉水供应。

Beitou is the northernmost administrative district of Taipei City and is also a famous hot spring town. Almost every hotel has hot spring water supply.

⬆️北投图书馆是北投区最引人瞩目的景点之一，它位于北投公园内，造型别致，周围树木葱茏，流水潺潺。由于它的全木构造，又名为绿色图书馆。

⬆️Beitou Library is one of the most eye-catching attractions in Beitou District. It has an unique shape and is located in Beitou Hot Spring Park. Surrounded by verdant trees and creeks, with its all-wood structure, it is also called the Green Library.

北投市内，距离图书馆不远就是地热谷公园。地热谷是北投溫泉的源頭之一，因為終年瀰漫著硫磺煙霧，讓人聯想到恐怖的地獄，所以又被稱為「地獄谷」或「鬼湖」。公园内的温泉湖上硫磺煙霧濔漫，如夢似幻，有如仙境一般。

Not far from the library is the Geothermal Valley Park. Geothermal Valley is one of the sources of Beitou Hot Springs. Because of the sulfur smoke billowing throughout the year, it resembles the terrible hell and is also called "Hell Valley" or "Ghost Lake".

地热谷

匯入溫泉湖的小瀑布

This small waterfall runs into the hot spring lake.

北投外周的一處景點是硫磺谷。

元代開始此處便有採硫礦業，後被棄用，留下了一汪碧水。如今硫磺湖邊有步行棧道和小溪流水，風景十分迷人。

A scenic spot outside Beitou is the Sulphur Valley.

Sulfur mining started here in the Yuan Dynasty. It was later abandoned, leaving behind a beautiful green pond. Nowadays, there are walking trails around the pond and creeks nearby. The scenery is very charming.

在北投逗留一天後，我們啓程南下前往台灣中部的日月潭和阿里山。

After staying one night in Beitou, we headed towards the south for the Sun-Moon Lake and Ali Mountain (Alishan) Range.

日月潭雖然不大，卻靈秀嫵媚。

The Sun-Moon Lake is not large but very charming.

沿湖騎行是一個十分美妙的體驗

Riding a bike around the lake is very enjoyable .

我們下榻於日月潭邊的大淶閣飯店。此店地處商業中心，略嫌嘈雜，但是臨湖的客房卻讓我們盡享日暮時分的天光雲影。

We stayed at the Dalaige Hotel by the Sun Moon Lake. The hotel is in the town center and is a bit noisy, but our room facing the lake had a great priceless view.

窗外的日月潭夜色

The evening view on the balcony was breathing.

從日月潭向北不遠就是聞名遐邇的阿里山區

North to the Sun-Moon Lake is the Ali Mountain (Alishan).

阿里山盛产茶叶，出產的高山茶馥郁可口。

Tea from here is really good.

⬆️我們下榻的生力茶場民宿

We stayed in a farm guesthouse here.

阿里山上常見的樹木是台灣冷杉

A common tree here is Taiwan cedar.

阿里山景区内有个美丽的高山湖泊“姐妹潭”。⬇️

In the park of Alishan there is a charming mountain lake, Sister Pond .

⬇️ 阿里山神廟

台灣的佛廟造型和中國大陸有所不同。他們色彩更為艷麗，雕飾更為複雜和誇張。

Alishan Temple

The Buddhist temples in Taiwan is a bit different from those in **************. They have brighter colors and more sophisticated decorations.

日据时期的火車站遺址⬇️

Ruins of an old railway station on the mountain.

阿里山區的美食，竹筒飯

A mountain delicacy here, bamboo rice.

还有瓮缸鸡

Clay Pot Chicken ⬇️

Clouds were in and out when we were there. They made the sunset more colorful.

我們游阿里山那天時晴時雨，山上雲霧時聚時散，日落十分絢麗。

阿里山的自然環境保護良好，綠樹成蔭。路邊常見野生獼猴嬉戲覓食。他們從不干擾和接觸遊客，對遊客也不特別懼怕。

The environment of Alishan is very well protected. Wildlife can often be seen here. We saw monkeys play and run on the roadside. They never bother tourists and are not very shy.

Rear end ⬇️

⬆️背面和⬇️正面觀

Front view

“让我想想”⬇️

“Let me think.”

美猴母子

Beautiful mother and baby

瞧这一家子⬇️

What a family！

這是台幣千元鈔上的「國鳥」 ，帝雉！

This is the "national bird" on the thousand-yan bill, the Emperor Pheasant!

下山的時刻大霧襲來

Fog came in when we left the mountain.

離開阿里山，我們向北前往清境山區

headed

After visiting Alishan, we drove northward towards Cingjing Farm.

沿著高山國道，我們來到了合歡山頂的清境農場。

Following the mountain highway, we came to the Cingjing Farm on the top of Hehuan Mountain.

清境農場位於台灣中部南投縣，海拔約1700至2000公尺，有「台灣阿爾卑斯山」之稱。

由於林木蒼鬱、空氣清新，也享有「霧上桃源」之譽。

Cingjing Farm is located in Nantou County in central Taiwan, with an altitude of about 1,700 to 2,000 meters. It is known as the "Taiwan’s Alps".

Because of the lush forests and fresh air, it also enjoys the reputation of "Paradise above the Fog".

這裡日治時期稱為霧社農場。山清水秀，適宜於養植溫帶水果和放牧牛羊。1959年在國民政府的協調下農場讓購於「退輔會」（國軍退役官兵輔導委員會），並更名為「見晴農場」，用於安置退伍老兵（榮民）的就業。這裡曾經安置過滇緬地區撤台的反共救國軍（義民）及其眷屬。

It was called Foggy Farm during the Japanese occupation. With the mountain air and the clean water, it is good for growing subtropical fruits and raising cattle.

In 1959, under the coordination of the National Government, the farm was donated to the "Retirement Association" (Guiding Committee for Retired Officers and Soldiers of the National Army) for placement of veterans. It was renamed "Jianqing Farm". The retired Anti-communist Salvation Army who withdrew from Myanmar area were once housed here.

1967年，時任退輔會主委的蔣經國到農場視察，認為此地「清新空氣任君取，境地優雅是仙居」，農場遂再次改名為「清境農場」，

In 1967, Jiang Jingguo, then chairman of the Retirement Association, inspected the farm and left a poem “Clean and fresh air for all you can take, beautiful place as elegant as the heaven.” So the farm was, again, renamed as “Cing (clean) - Jing (place) Farm”

由於高山風光獨好，遠離城市喧囂，清境農場後來逐漸轉型為熱門的觀光地。

Due to the excellent mountain scenery and away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Cingjing Farm was gradually transformed into a popular tourist spot.

「青青草原」⬆️和「小瑞士花園」是場內的熱門景點。

“Green Meadow” is one of the popular spots in the farm. ⬆️

清境的欧式建筑之一「老英格蘭」⬇️

“Old England” is one of the European styled buildings here.

清境之美不仅于清境農場，更在於周遭的丛山峻岭。位於高海拔的合歡山顶，它周围的峰巒大部分都是台灣有名的高山，雄偉壯麗。由于环境保护良好，从农场的各个地方都可以无阻碍地展望群山，欣賞雲波雾海。

The beauty of Cingjing is not only in the farm, but also in the surroundings. Located on the top of Hehuan Mountain at high altitude, most of the peaks and ridges around it are Taiwan’s famous majestic mountains.

From most places in the farm, you can lookout to the mountains and enjoy the panoramic views of mountains and clouds.

清境茶園

Mountain tea farm ⬇️

在清境逗留二晚後，我們沿東西橫貫公路前往太魯閣國家公園。

After two nights in Cingjing， we headed to Taroko National Park along the east-west crossing highway.

從清境到太魯閣需要翻山越嶺，穿過諸多隧道。從合歡山開往大禹嶺的這段路建在陡峭的山崖上，路寬只有一個車身多一點。如果有車輛從對面駛來，一方必須靠邊讓行。時值週末，山路上堵滿了旅遊大巴、摩托車和自行車，交通數次停滯不前，驚險交加。

From Cingjing to Taroko, we crossed many mountains and passed through many tunnels. The road from Hehuan Mountain to Dayuling is built on the mountain side. The road was so small; some segments only had one lane. When there was traffic from both directions, one party must move aside to yield. It was the weekend, the road was jammed with tour buses, motorcycles and bicycles.

堵車時間過久，不如下車拍幾張路邊景色。⬇️

⬆️ ⬇️ Traffic came to a complete stop. May as well get out of the car to take some pictures.

⬇️ 剛才走過的路

⬆️ The road we just passed

這裡多雨的高山時常雲霧繚繞

Rain clouds on top of the mountain

夾雜在車流中的有週末出來登山的自行車愛好者。在如此狹窄且陡峭的山路上騎行實在是令人望而生畏，且倍感佩服！

Amid the busy traffic, there are cyclists doing the uphill riding. Cycling on such a narrow and steep mountain road and snaking through all the automobiles really takes some courage!

到了大禹山頂就算進入了太魯閣國家公園的境內。太魯閣國家公園位於台灣東部，地跨花蓮縣、臺中和南投。但中心景區，太魯閣峽谷是在花蓮境內，距离大禹峰还有一段路。

Once on the top of Dayu Mountain, you have entered Taroko National Park. Taroko National Park is in eastern Taiwan, across a big area of Hualien County, Taichung and Nantou. But the central scenic spot, Taroko Gorge is in Hualien, which is some ways from here.

這是一座免費進入的國家公園。上面這座「慈母橋」標誌著風景區最美路段，「太魯幽峽」的開始。

This is a national park with free entry. The "Cimu Bridge" above marks the beginning of the "Taroko Gorge", the most beautiful section of the national park.

太魯閣峽谷景區位於台灣東部的花蓮縣西北，連綿18公里，兩岸懸崖壁立，谷底是奔流的立霧溪。

The Taroko Gorge Scenic Area is located in the northwest of Hualien County. It stretches 18 km long. Liwu Creek runs in the bottom of the gorge with steep cliffs on both sides of the river.

太魯閣大峽谷是由湍流不息的溪水經過千萬年的切割而形成的。峽谷中的立霧溪水從海拔3000多米的合歡山聚流而下，到入海口只有100公里左右，水流的不斷切割使峽谷越來越深，

Taroko Gorge was carved out by the water of Liwu Creek coming down from the Hehuang Mountain that is 3000 meters high. The cutting force of the water for thousands years makes the gorge deeper and deeper.

太魯閣國家公園是台灣的驕傲！全程約18公里的峽谷，由多個隧道連接，處處險峻曲折，可以想見道路修建之艱難，人們必須在懸崖絕壁上鑿石槽、打隧道、架橋梁。

This Park is the pride of Taiwan! Many roads was built upon cliffs; and the 18-kilometer gorge is lined by multiple tunnels. It is not difficult to picture how hard the road construction was. People had to hang on the cliffs and chisel out roads and tunnels.

在河谷和峭壁之間狹窄多彎的公路上行車有種驚心動魄的感覺，同時也為不時掠過的景色而驚艷。

It felt chilling to drive between the river valley and the cliffs, though the beautiful scenes rushed by the car s were exciting.

由於地勢險峻、空间狹小，有的路段只有一輛車的寬度，逆行的雙方往往需要相讓或協調才得通過。在這樣的「羊腸小道」上卻有載客大巴和單人機動車頻繁來往。那些大巴司機簡直像在玩雜技。

Due to the rough terrain and narrow spaces, some road sections only had the width of one car. When there is traffic in both directions, one side had to yield to let the other one pass. Tour buses and motorcycles were fighting for spaces on that winding road, felt like an action movie.

燕子口是太魯閣風景區的精華。立霧溪峽谷在此變得尤為狹窄。這裡其實是一段人工開鑿的長隧道。

目前地形狹窄的燕子口擁有了完美的人車分流。這一龐大的工程耗時五年，於2008年竣工通車。太陽初升的時候，我們沿著長長的峽谷步道，觀賞到令人窒息的美景。

Yanzikou (Mouth of Willow Birds) is the most beautiful part of Taroko. The canyon becomes particularly narrow here. The path is actually a long tunnel above the creek.

The Mouth of Willow Birds currently has a perfectly separated walkway and auto route. This project involves the widening of the long tunnel which took five years to complete. It was opened in 2008.

At sunrise, we took a walk along the gorge and enjoyed the breathtaking views of the Mouth of Willow Birds.

燕子口步道上的观景洞口⬇️

⬆️ The on the tunnel as a lookout. There are several such lookouts along the tunnel of the Mouth of Willow Birds.

Standing by the rails of the walkway, the canyon wall of the other side seemed as close as at hand reach.

Erosion of limestone over years formed soft patches or caves on the canyon wall. Swallows started to build nests in those little caves. Some times the canyon would be filled with echoing of bird chirps, the name of “Mouths of Swallows” was thus produced.

In recent years, due to the great increase of traffic, the swallows have moved away.

站在步道的護欄邊上，對面的山壁近在咫尺，岩壁上因石灰岩受溪流的長期侵蝕，較鬆軟的岩層逐漸形成洞穴，燕子就在這些天然洞穴中築巢而居，出现“百燕鸣谷”的奇观，燕子口因此得名。然而近年來因為車輛人流驟增，燕子們已經易地而居。

燕子口的崖壁上有不少洞口，洞中時有泉水流出。

Some holes on the canyon wall has actually spring water coming out forming little waterfalls.

燕子口隧道内步道一瞥

Walkway in the tunnel of Mouth of Willows

出了燕子口峡谷变得宽敞

Out of the Mouth of Swallows, the canyon becomes wider.

⬆️⬇️白楊步道帶你看到立霧溪的清澈支流。

The Aspen Trail takes you to a branch of Liwu Creek that has clear spring water.

慈母桥⬇️

Loving-mother Bridge

站在慈母桥上观太鲁阁日落

桥下是双溪合流

⬇️ View of sunset from Loving-mother Bridge. Under the bridge, is the two-creeks merge: one side of the river is clear, the other side is muddy.

我们在太鲁阁下榻的地方叫半月村，这是一个太鲁族风格的乡村宾馆，环境优雅，服务周到，饭菜可口。而且离燕子口非常近！

The place where We stayed in Taroko is called Half Moon Village. This is a country lodge in the tribe of Taroko and was run by Taroko people. The thatch cottages were simple but sufficient; service was good and food was delicious.

⬇️长春祠，太鲁阁峡谷内的重要景点之一

Forever Spring Temple is one important scenic spot in Taroko.

离开太鲁阁后我们沿横贯公路继续向东前往花莲市。

After Taroko, we took the cross country highway and drive eastward towards the city of Hualian.

To be continued