文明古国柬埔寨 Cambodia，A Country With Brilliant History

念怡

我们有幸于2019年末来到了这个东南亚文明古国。第一站就是向往已久的吴哥窟所在地暹粒（xian li）。

In the end of 2019, we came to this Southeast Asia country with brilliant ancient culture. Our first stop was Siem Reap where Angkor Wat is located.

被列为世界遗产的吴哥窟（Angkor Wat），位於柬埔寨暹粒市北5.5公里。它是一个庞大的、具有近千年历史的寺庙群，占地面積162.6公倾。这里原為印度教圣地，12世紀末改為佛教寺廟。

Located in the suburbs of Siem Reap, Angkor Wat is a temple complex in Cambodia and the largest religious monument in the world. Originally constructed as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu for the Khmer Empire, it was gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century.

吴哥窟的建设起始于12世紀的吳哥王朝。它是世界上最大的神廟，以建築宏偉與浮雕精细而聞名於世。

As one of the most important archaeological sites in South-East Asia, Angkor Wat is famous for its magnificent Khmer architecture and meticulous sculpture.

法国古迹学家莫里斯·格萊斯（Maurice Glaize）認為“吳哥窟是吳哥古跡中以造型之雄偉、佈局之平衡、比例之協調、線條之优美，威風赫赫，可比美世界上任何最杰出的建筑成就，而毫不遜色。”

实地游览后真是感到名不虚传！

吴哥窟中央的庙山由三層長方形有回廊环绕的平台組成，层层高叠，形如金字塔。

The central structure of Angkor Wat is like a pyramid. The temple stands on a terrace raised higher than the city. It consists of three layers of rectangular galleries that stack on each other and rise to a central tower.

吴哥国家公园占地广阔，内有多个不同的寺庙，有的属于不同的族群。它们之间通常相距数公里。

As the biggest temple complex, the Angkor National Park Stretches over some 400 km2. There are different temples scattered in different areas of Siem Reap.

Prea Khan Temple

圣剑寺

虽然是一片瓦砾，其残存的精致雕刻和建筑风格却让人看到它背后厚重的历史文化和文明底蕴。

Although full of crumbles, one can still see it’s rich history and brilliant civilization through the remaining fine carvings and architectural styles

像不像古罗马遗址？

Doesn’t it look like Roman Ruins?

吴哥日暮

Dusk of Angkor Wat

Pre Rup Temple

This is another temple that is very tall, like a tower.

变身塔, 这是另一座神殿。

作为一座圣城，吴哥窟主殿的四周有厚而高的城墙。城墙中有雕刻着佛面的高大的城门。(下）

As a temple city, Angkor Wat has a tall city wall which has several gates which were heavily decorated. （below）

作为城墙廊柱的大象鼻

The pillars of the wall gate are the sculptures of elephant noses

城墙顶上现在变成了宽阔的林荫道，伴以参天大树。

The city wall is so thick, that it’s top has been eroded into a dirt path. This “dirt path” is lined with trees of hundreds years old.

有城墙便自然也有护城河。吴哥窟的护城河宽阔而美丽。

There is a moat as well. The moat is wide and pretty with fishing boats dotted on it.

河上常常见到小渔船。和越南不同的是，这里没有摆拍风。

这是护城河的桥栏（下），它由连续的人像雕刻组成。这些雕塑有年久风华损毁的，也有被人为毁坏的。

The below is the railing of the bridge on the moat. It is formed by many connected statues of Khmer warriors. Some of them are badly eroded.

吴哥遗迹中的一部分是女人宫（下）。据说这里的建筑出自女工匠之手，它们曾有更艳丽的色彩和更为细腻的浮雕。

One important part of Angkor Wat is the Lady Temple （below). The buildings here are more elegant. They used to have richer colors and decorations. It is said the builders and artists were all female.

女人宮以它的精雕細刻，圖案精美著稱。

The Lady Temple is known for it’s fine carving and delicate designs.

柬埔寨的神庙和宫殿周围常见状似眼镜蛇的雕饰，它们还常常用作扶栏。这源于高棉神话中的七头蛇纳迦（Naga），其原型就是眼镜蛇。从许多神殿入口处的纳迦塑像，可见柬埔寨人对纳迦的崇拜。

Sculptures resembling cobras are often seen in Cambodia. They were used as decorations or, sometimes, as rails. This is originated from the seven-headed snake Naga in Khmer tale stories whose prototype is a cobra. The statues of Naga at the entrances of temples and palaces reflects the worship of Cambodian people to Naga.

吴哥晨曦

Dawn at Angkor Wat

晨逛下的城堡

柬埔寨的古文化遗产是令人震撼的，更给人流行深刻印象的是柬人的淳朴善良。

任何时候如果注意到有旁人把相机镜头对向他们，他们便会露出善意的微笑并停留片刻。

Cambodia’s cultural heritage is amazing. But what’s more impressive is the kindness of the Cambodians.

Whenever they noticed someone’s camera pointed at them, they would pause and smile at you.

这里是暹粒外围贫民窟的一角，毗邻相连的铁皮屋色彩斑斓。极贫的生活似乎并没有损害这里居民的尊严。

This is a corner of the slums outside Siem Reap. The tiny tin huts are closely next to each other. Despite of the poverty, people here live with their dignity.

柬埔寨贫民的女儿。这样的笑容让人看到希望！

This smile gives one hope.

柬埔寨乡村女孩

Sarah, a Cambodian country girl.

这是我最爱怜的一个女孩。她一直偎在我的身边，对我们带来的食物也并不去争抢。

This girl caught most of my attention. She stayed at my side for long time, holding my hand, playing with my bracelet, and payed little attention to the food we brought.

我们在屋外张望的时候这孩子正在屋内读着课本。见我们拍照便腼腆地出来张望。

This boy was reading his school textbook when we were outside of their hut. Noticing us, he came to the door and timidly peeked at us.

好奇的眼睛

curious eyes

暹粒不仅有古迹，也有醉人的乡村风光。

Siem Reap has not only the charming ancient heritage, but also mesmerizing country scenery.

暹粒郊外的晚上：

在暹粒的最后一个晚上导游Siya带我们来的郊外的农家乐。

荷花池和稻田相邻，其间设有一排排水上草屋。日暮时分，水边的景物在晚霞掩映下恍若世外桃源。

On our last night in Siem Reap, Siya, our tour guide took us to a country restaurant.

It was settled amid lotus pond and rice fields with rows of cottages on water.

It was like a paradise when the cottages and the surroundings glowed under twilight.

水边成排的茅草屋其实是餐厅“包房”。游客可随意择屋入内、席地而坐，品农家菜，饮安哥酒（柬制啤酒品牌）。呱呱的蛙声伴着习习的晚风，真似世外桃源！

The thatched huts on the water are actually separate dining rooms, which can be randomly selected by guests.

Guests sit on the floor at a low table, where they can order the local beer and the country styled dishes. The frog chirping and the breezes from the water made this evening one of our best memories in Cambodia.

导游和司机和我们共度了难忘的夜晚。

We spent an unforgettable evening with Siya and our driver.

左一为Siya，我们在暹粒的导游。

First from the left is Siya, the best tour guide I have met.

这是导游给我们推荐的旅馆，极好！

Siya recommended this hotel in Siem Real which was phenomenal!

金碧辉煌的金边王宫和周边的极贫形成强烈反差！

The glamorous Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

餐厅里的美丽舞女

Pretty and friendly dancer in the restaurant

荷花盆景是柬埔寨的一粹。

餐馆和宾馆的门口常见这一道特别的风景。

Lotus decorations are often seen at the entrance of hotels and restaurants. The folded flower peddles make them more unique and attractive.

餐桌上的荷花饰品

荷叶包鱼是柬埔寨常见的美食

Lotus leaf wrapped fish is a local delicacy

来到金边的访问者很多都到图斯廉监狱来见证红色高棉的暴政历史。

Many visitors to Phnom Penh went to Tuslyan Prison to witness the tyranny history of the Khmer Rouge.

阴森的图斯廉原来是一所中学，后来被改为监狱，专门关押同情朗诺政府的社会人士。此地的暴行更甚于奥斯维辛集中营，二百万柬浦寨知识精英在此死于非命。每一个受害人死前都受到惨无人道的酷刑。

Tuslyan prison is a dark page of the communism regime in this country. It can be compared to the Auschwitz concentration camp. This prison was converted from a school, some two millions of Cambodian intellectuals were murdered. Every victim was brutally tortured before death.

All the scenes here exerted a chilling terror to us.

那是一种令人窒息的恐怖！

中国读者熟悉的被害女教师 (下）

One of the victims （below）was this school teacher whose brain was brutally pieced.

医学博士和夫人（受害者都是知识精英）

A medical doctor and his wife.

他们的领袖，毛竹席的好学生波尔伯特

Polpot, the leader of Khmer Rouge

图斯廉监狱幸存者（下），二百万中两个之一, 在监狱门口出售他的回忆录。

One of the two survivors from two million victims （below) was selling his memoir.

这是红色高棉幸存者的自述小说，读时令我几度不能自己。红色政权在戮害自己的民众方面有惊人的共同之处，不过波尔布特走得最远。gczy幽灵从未离我们远去！善良的人们要警惕！

At the exit of the prison I also bought another memoir written by Loung Ung，“First They Killed My Father” (a Hollywood movie in the same name was made based on her story). Reading it on the airplane maid me unable to control my tears. The totalitarian regimes are all similar in terms of abusing and suppressing their peoples. We should all stay A-l-e-r-t, not to allow the nightmares of Communism happen elsewhere!

（note: for some reason, this software doesn’t take the word “a-l-e-r-t”)

The end