拉萨,我又来了~

妞妞

<h3>在布达拉宫广场闲逛~</h3> <h3>在药王山看布宫晚霞和日出~</h3> <h3>50元人民币背景</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">​布达拉宫广场最美的时间,是入夜时分。</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">在广场前的公园里,拍一张带有倒影的布达拉宫,似乎是去拉萨必做的事。</span></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">&nbsp;</span></h3><h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">在拉萨,似乎都会去大昭寺八廓街</span></h3> <h3>当地人心里,以大昭寺为中心的八廓街一带才是真正的拉萨。诵经声、喃喃语、和着蓝天白云,红房白瓦,美的不真实。信仰是这里的唯一,人们脸上的虔诚是大昭寺最真实的写照<br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">寺前终日香火缭绕,信徒们虔诚的叩拜在门前的青石地板上留下了等身长头的深深印痕。万盏酥油灯长明,留下了岁月和朝圣者的痕迹。</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">站在大昭寺的街角,看他们磕长头,可以看很久</span></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">此起彼伏,身体与石板是摩擦声,还有那念念有词的六字箴言,是这里恒久不变的声音。</span></h3> <h1 style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; padding-left: 12px; line-height: 29px; font-size: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); position: relative; font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">一跪一叩的朝圣,到底是怎样的信仰</h1> <h3><font color="#010101"><pre style="white-space: pre-line; padding: 15px; border: 0px; word-break: break-all; background-color: rgb(244, 245, 246); color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-align: justify;">转动所有经筒,修修来世,祈求不受轮回之苦&lt;/pre&gt;</font></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">眼前是顺时针转经的人群,川流不息</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">沿着这条转经道走三圈吧,各式各样的信徒,严格地按顺时针方向沿着这条环形路走下去。</span></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">街心有一个巨型香炉,昼夜烟火弥漫,街道两侧店铺林立,八廓街内有很多的岔道,如果你愿意,也可以去走走,不用怕迷路。</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">在八廓街上,有几个小寺庙,小巷里,有金色的转经轮,很多人在这里拍写真</span></h3> <h3>即使是一扇旧旧的木门,也很适合当背景<br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">去了拉萨,如果有二三个小时的空余时间,可以去拍一套藏服写真。布达拉宫广场和八廓街,都是极好的写真背景,可惜这次时间不够,没拍上,留待下次吧</span><br></h3> <h3>仓央嘉措与玛吉阿米~ 你见,或者不见我 我就在那里 不悲不喜 你念,或者不念我 情就在那里 不来不去 寂静喜欢<br></h3> <h3><br></h3><h3>光明茶馆</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">这是一家极为古老的 甜茶馆,</span>这里有最正宗的拉萨气味,是老拉萨人和文青、藏漂的聚集地,只要有零钱和空杯子在桌上,就会有人过来倒甜茶,一块钱一杯,几块钱可以耗半天,这便是拉萨最慵懒的时光~</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">其实藏面不好吃,硬梆梆的,吃的,是一种市井烟火的感觉</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">当你的身边,两边坐着都是当地藏民,听他们说着听不懂的语言。这种感受是很奇妙的</span></h3><h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">如果你来拉萨,一定要来这感受下</span><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;"><br></span></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;"><br></span></h3><h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">色拉寺与哲蚌寺、甘丹寺合称拉萨三大寺,是三大寺中建成最晚的一座</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">色拉寺内保存着上万个金刚佛像,大多为西藏本地制作。最著名的塑像就是大殿里的"马头明王"像</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">来色拉寺,最希望亲眼看看色拉寺僧人的辨经法会。</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">辨经场每天下午三点到五点,已经有600多年的历史了</span><br></h3> <h3>一个僧人席地而坐,对面的僧人开始用抑扬顿挫的声调配合丰富的肢体动作来表达自己的思想,如能听懂辩论将更加精彩……<br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">他们的开场姿势一般都是右手向后高高扬起,和左手相拍发出清脆的响声,然后将右手向下伸向对方后拉起,对答者发问。而这个右手扬起的动作说明文殊菩萨的智慧就在身后,两个手掌相击发出声响,实则代表着三层意思,第一层为一为一个巴掌拍不响,世间一切都是众缘合和的产物。第二层为掌声代表无常,一切都稍纵即逝,第三层意为清脆的响声击醒你心中的慈悲和智慧,驱走恶念。</span><br></h3> <h3><br></h3><h3>哲蚌寺,</h3><h3>来拉萨,即使走得再慢,也要走一遍的西藏最大的佛教建筑群。</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;"><br></span></h3><h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">在西藏,“小寺看大寺,大寺看哲蚌”</span></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">哲蚌寺座是格鲁派中地位最高的寺庙</span></h3> <h3>每年藏历6月29日~7月1日是西藏雪顿节,会在这里进行展佛活动</h3><h3><br></h3> <h3>寺庙位于半山腰上,与 大多数藏式寺院处在山顶相比,哲蚌寺的位置相对较低</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">徒步走上山的话需要半个小时左右,沿路有很多牦牛和狗狗,</span><br></h3> <h3>对于大多数游客来讲,也算是不低的海拔,毕竟是一级一级的拾阶而上</h3> <h3>这时考察的不是信仰有多么的坚定,而是你的体力能不能支撑;</h3> <h3>幸好我们是从阿里回来后去的,已经经受了考验,非常轻松,大气都不喘一喘</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">沿寺庙旁边的小路拾级而上,能听到转经筒的叮叮铛铛的声音回荡,偶有红衣服的喇嘛在白塔前烧香</span><br></h3> <h3>藏民在水沟边洗铃铛……</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">很是喜欢寺庙的这种宁静</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">背后的山崖上就是晒佛台~</span></h3><h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">雪顿节的晒佛仪式会在晒佛台举行。届时一幅500平米的巨大唐卡在山腰上徐徐展露,数万名信徒和深受感染的游客双手合十,顶礼膜拜</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">经堂雄伟壮观,有精美的织绣经幢、挂幢、唐卡(卷轴画)以及佛像、壁画等加以修饰,里面同时可以容纳八千人诵经,大殿中间的大文殊像及白伞盖像极为精致,可惜不能拍照</span><br></h3> <h3>才疏学浅,弄不明白每尊佛像的宗教含义;只是身临其境的时候,感受其强大的气场,肃穆,大气都不敢喘……</h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">哲蚌寺的圣殿,深藏着世纪的沧桑;那些祈祷,那些徘徊辗转,那些经殿里的闭目诵经,都随着时间的流逝成为历史。</span></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">下山的时候,不知不觉走到僧舍,穿梭于殿堂僧舍之间,很容易迷路;不过在寺庙里乱走,更容易发现意想不到地场景;经过一间间门窗紧闭的小禅房,发现小院子里多多少少都种着一簇簇不知名地花,从湿润地泥土可以看出照料它们主人地细腻心思。忘记拍照了……</span><br></h3> <h3>从哲蚌寺鸟瞰拉萨……</h3> <h3><br></h3><h3>扎叶巴寺</h3><h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">西藏四大隐修地之一</span></h3> <h3><div class="pgc-img" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;"><p class="image-wrap" style="margin: 18px 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; display: block;"></h3></div></h3><p style="margin: 18px 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 17px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">变幻无穷的白云蓝天,迎风飘摇的绿草经幡,不是天堂,胜似天堂。</h3> <h3><font color="#010101"><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">藏族民谣中有唱:</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">西藏的灵地在拉萨,</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">拉萨的灵地在耶巴;</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">到拉萨不到耶巴,</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">等于做件新衣忘做领。</h3></font></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">遵从内心深处遥远的呼唤,我赴扎耶巴寺而来……</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">走过一段段九曲十八弯的盘山路,自己已置身于云端之上,相伴耶巴秋意浓,以及几处高耸入云的白色佛塔。</span><br></h3> <h3><font color="#010101"><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">位于山谷中的耶巴沟</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">沉静、悠远</h3></font></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">扎耶巴寺充满了自然之灵气</span><br></h3> <p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">每每从扎耶巴寺向远处眺望</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">目光所及、心之所念</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">皆是来自自然风貌与久远的藏地文化</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">相互交融所碰撞出的文脉渊源和传奇历史<br></h3> <h3>扎耶巴神殿掩映在山崖之中,现存山洞十数个<br></h3> <h3><font color="#010101"><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">其中松赞干布修法洞兴建最早</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">位于半山峭壁上</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">后来几经修、扩建</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">形成了紧紧嵌于悬崖峭壁上的佛殿群</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">为信众心驰神往</h3></font></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">褐色的山崖上天然形成了大大小小的若干个崖洞。有些山洞,外面是建了一层小佛殿的,看着像寺庙,进去以后才发现,里面是个洞穴</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">秋天的扎叶巴寺层林浸染</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">偶尔有几个僧人慢慢走过</span><br></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">或论着经书,或拿水壶</span><br></h3> <h3><font color="#010101"><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">世俗与修行,喧嚣与宁静</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">在这里有着绝妙地平衡</h3></font></h3> <h3><font color="#010101"><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">红白相间的建筑群</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">牦牛或狗悠然自得地卧着</h3></font></h3> <h3><span style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">&nbsp;面对这座依洞建寺、洞寺合一的扎耶巴寺,我充满了敬畏与好奇</span><br></h3> <h3><font color="#010101"><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">我想知道在信仰面前,真爱是如何表达?</h3><p style="margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: -apple-system, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify; white-space: normal;">是否也和这片土地的信仰一样坚定?</h3></font></h3> <h3>旅程不能少了吃,手抓羊肉,四人两斤……</h3> <h3>牦牛酸奶……</h3> <h3>在西藏很多四川人,于是就有很多的川菜……</h3> <h3>诸如让鸭脑壳飞,真是辣到脑壳飞起的感觉……</h3> <h3>还有一碗猪蹄花,一碗饭,心满意足……</h3> <h3><br></h3><h3><br></h3><h3>在拉萨住了四个晚上,还是有些东西想看的没看到,有些事情想做的没有做到,留点遗憾等下次再来……<br></h3>