骑行川藏线第十七天 9.14 Road 318 Day(17)

钱塘人42.¹⁹⁵

然乌休整 Break At Ranwu

昨晚的中秋团聚餐大家都很嗨。除了老张提前回房休息外，其他人都说说笑笑到晚上十二点多。席间主要是听李勋和老刘忙讲述他们路上的传奇经历。相对于他俩在路上经历的磨难，我的川藏线骑行到目前为止算是顺风顺水了。这也许要归功于这块一直随身带着的观音菩萨玉坠。Everyone was very excited at the Mid-Autumn festival dinner last night. In addition to Lao Zhang going back to his room early, all talked and laughed until midnight. During the dinner, Li Xun and Lao Liu were busy telling about their legendary experienced on the road. Compared with the trouble they experienced on the road, my Sichuan-Tibet line has so far been smooth. All Of my luck may be due to this piece of Guanyin Bodhisattva jade pendant that has always been with me.

这是亚创在今年我的生日时给我买的。以前也有，但是都被我弄丢了。这次亚创再三叮嘱我无论什么情况都不要把它拿下以防丢失。她希望观音菩萨能保佑我的川藏线骑行平安。Yachuang bought this for me on my birthday this year. I used to have it, but I lost it all. This time She repeatedly told me not to take it down in case I lost it under any circumstances. She hopes that the Guanyin Bodhisattva can bless my Sichuan-Tibetan line riding safely.

尽管昨晚睡得晚，但是我们仍设了今天早上6：30的闹钟。因为我们的计划是早上七点钟做车去看一个四十公里远的原始冰川-仁龙古冰川。十点钟回来之后再骑车去下一站波密。Although we went to bed late last night, we set the alarm clock at 6:30 this morning. Because our plan is to take a minivan at 07:00 in the morning to visit a primitive glacier 40 kilometers away-Renlong Glacier. When we get back at 10:00, We ride bike to the next stop, Bomi.

一行8人坐着藏族小哥的面包车出发了. Eight Of US took The minivan to Renlonggu glacier.

冰川起始于海拔4500米，所以我们的车子开始往高处走。然乌有三个著名的冰川，米堆冰川，来古冰川和仁龙古冰川。我们选择去仁龙古冰川是因为它最原始，没有开发，无需门票。The glacier began at an altitude of 4500 meters, so our minivan began to climb. Ranwu has three famous glaciers, Midui Glacier, Laigu Glacier and Renlong Glacier. We chose to go to Renlong Ancient Glacier because it was the most primitive, undeveloped and did not require tickets.

路上经过然乌湖。然乌湖现在是著名的高山湖泊，四周被雪山和冰川包围着。它最早时其实是个地质运动造成的堰塞湖。On The way there is Ranwu Lake. Ranwu Lake is now a famous alpine lake surrounded by snowy mountains and glaciers. It was originally a barrier lake caused by a geological movement.

然乌湖畔的藏民的农田 Tibetan farm Along Ranwu Lake

农忙季节，一片繁荣的景象，很震撼！Harvest season, a prosperous scene, very shocking!

面包车大约开了五十分钟，我们来到了一个偏离马路约800米的小溪边。此时远处的冰川已经依稀可见了。藏族小哥下车跟我们说车子只能开到这里了，剩下的离冰川七八公里的路程只能坐拖拉机进去了，每人50元。这使我们很愕然，因为当初我们支付每人30元时以为面包车可以一直开到冰川边上的。老布丁对藏民的这种行为很气愤，他拒绝支付50元，他认为50元之后可能还会有别的欺诈。最终老布丁，阿福和老刘忙留在面包车里，我们其他五人各支付50元后搭上了拖拉机。After driving for about fifty minutes, we came to a stream about 800 meters from the road. By this moment the glaciers in the distance were already visible. Tibetan driver got out of the car and told us that the car could only stop here, and the rest of the distance from the glacier was only seven or eight kilometers by tractor, 50 yuan per person. This surprised us because when we paid 30 yuan each, we thought the van could drive all the way to the edge of the glacier. Old pudding was angry at the Tibetan behavior. He refused to pay 50 yuan. He thought there might be other fraud after 50 yuan. Finally, the old pudding, Ah Fu and Lao Liu stayed in the van. The other five of us paid 50 yuan each and got on the tractor.

拖拉机涉过小溪 tractor in The stream

坐拖拉机视频 Video Of taking tractor

最颠簸的路段根本没法拍视频。这一段还是在比较平稳的时候拿出手机拍的。The most bumpy road can't make a video at all. This clip was shoot By mobile phone when The Road condition was relatively stable.

开了一半车停下来了。司机说要给发动机加冷却水。好吧，就地取水。The tractor stopped halfway. The driver said He need to add water to cool the engine. All right, get the water on the spot.

开了大约四公里到了另一条小溪边拖拉机停下来，司机让我们下车，去坐河对面的另一辆拖拉机。此时我们逐步明白收费50元的原因了，原来道路那么曲折。After driving about four kilometers to another stream, the tractor stopped, and the driver let us off to take another tractor At another Side of the river. By this moment, we gradually understand the reason for the charge of 50 yuan. The way to glacier is so tortuous.

就这样另一辆拖拉机又开了将近四公里之后来到来到一个有几匹马站着的地方。司机说离冰川还有两公里左右，都是乱石堆，我们可以骑马过去或者走路过去。我们选择走路过去。So the second tractor drove nearly four kilometers and came to a place where several horses were standing. The driver said it was about two kilometers from the glacier and all The way was rocks, and we could either ride horse or walk over there. We chose to walk there.

沿着乱石堆路我们不停地往冰川方向走。看似很近，可就是怎么走也没到，真是神！同时我们越来越觉得原先十点钟回去骑车的可能性越来越小了。We kept walking in the direction of the glacier along the stony road. Seems very close, but never get there, my God! At the same time, we increasingly feel that it is less and less likely to go back and ride bike at 10:00.

等我们正真靠近冰川时我们都已经筋疲力尽，高原上爬山蛮累的！We were very tired when We approached The glacier. It is Really difficult Climbing on Highland.

为了能近距离接触冰川，我们不断地往上爬。脚下很滑，我们不得不小心翼翼。In order to arrive At The center Of The glacier, We kept Climbing. It was very slipy and We had to watch Our steps carefully.

冰窟窿，很深！Deep Ice cave

冰沟，很险！Dangerous Ice ditch

如果一不小心滑到这些地方去，那么就比较悲催了。我一边走，一边牢牢地拽着自己的手机。

下冰川就更容易滑了。看我那跄踉的样子。

还好，只是滑了一下受点小伤。

其他几个也平安归来。

此时已经接近中午十二点了，大家也非常疲惫。我们深感原本今天骑车去波密的计划是不可能再执行了。经过大伙的一番讨论，我们决定今天就在然乌休整，明天骑车去波密，原本明天在波密的休整取消。只是让在面包车里等待的三位久等了，真是计划不如变化快啊！

下午大家基本都在房间里休息。今天的临时计划调整一开始让人有些不舒服，但是后来想想也未必是坏事。毕竟冰川上行走的经历还是令人兴奋的。我们决定明天早点出发骑去波密，那么我们到了波密之后还可以留出时间去波密城里逛逛，只是我们没有时间去墨脱，去参观树葬了。