原始，璀璨，壮丽——-北极，冰雪之蓝色探戈

煌煌

有朋友问，到达世界的最顶端———北极，是啥感觉？人类纵有美妙词汇万千，影像无数，却难以描绘它的美妙，纯净，雄伟和壮观！置身其间，脑子空空，兴奋莫名，眼里充满了原始之世外奇景，白色冰雪与大海蓝天交织在一起的蓝色探戈。感叹造物主之神奇，愿时光不老，岁月永远静好！

地球自转轴的最北端，北纬90度的那一点，就是北极点。当你从赤道越往北走，你会发现天空的星星在你的头顶上越悬越高。直到你发现北半球天空中最大的星座——大熊星座（北斗七星）正好悬在你的头顶上，你所站的位置也就是北极了。所以古希腊人说到北方总要和熊——arktos联系起来。而北极的名称"Arctic"的意思就是"熊站在头顶的地方"。

这次夏天出行，看不到北极的星空，但太阳神每时每刻都眷顾着我们，midnight sun…

八个月的期待，近在咫尺，怎能不让人欣喜，期待。三天在巴黎的腐败，让我们养足了精神，神采奕奕地踏上北极的航程。从 6月22日至6月30日，我们将在法属 Ponant L’Austral 上度过远离文明社会，没有Wi-Fi, 但神奇的七晚”探险“航程。

从巴黎飞至北极圈内。云层下是怎样的一个冰雪世界等待我们去探索…，不安的小心脏，慢慢地被莫名的兴奋笼罩。

经过四个半小时左右的飞行，终于到达挪威 北极圈内最”繁华”的城市，Longyearbyan. 机场非常小，只能容纳每次一架飞机起降，但，是我见到过最美的机场之一。

   从机场前往城市的途中…，Longyearbyan 是许多极地探险船出发的城镇，一路走来，景色美不胜收……

土生土长的当地人，用略带挪威口音的英文，讲述了这座城填的煤矿史，他和家人生活及成长史。图闻并茂，引人入胜！

Longyearbyen is Located at the western side of Spitsbergen. The town lies at a latitude of 78º N, within 600 miles or 966 km of the North Pole. Spitsbergan is also the largest island in Svalbard archipelogo.

我们终于坐上渡船，看着眼前美丽，优雅，奢华的L’Austral 一点一点向我们靠近。帅气的船长在门口迎接我们，一一握手，一声问候，一条热毛巾，一杯香槟，心里温暖无比……

打开cabin 323，眼前的景象，又是一个惊喜！红白葡萄酒已经在ice bucket 里静静的等待，睡衣，拖鞋，小冰箱里的酒水及小吃，洗漱间及 toilet 一尘不染，阳台窗外的雪山…，最最让人称奇的是，洗手间外边还有一个门，打开它，就可以一边洗澡刷牙，一边欣赏窗外阳台上的美景。突然有一种莫名的感动和兴奋，这里是我们临时的家…

由于极地夏日24小时白昼，每到傍晚，服务员窗帘拉好，被褥铺好，尽力为我们营造一个温馨，睡眠的环境。

追不及待地跑到船尾，船头，甲板上下，顾不得寒风凛冽，拍下这兴奋开心的一刻。

船头最高点，冷风刺骨，欲穷千里目，只有登高远望，憧憬着未来7天的未知世界

由于这次旅行是由全美大学校友会组织的，邀请了许多毕生从事极地研究的专家及各路精英。提供许多各个层面的讲座，包括北极地质地理，历史，人文，动物植物，以及人们最关心的话题. 全球变暖！团员也都是从各大名校毕业，哈佛，耶鲁，MIT, 芝加哥大学，华盛顿大学等等等等！我也有幸能与1995年Baylor医学院毕业的老校友及家人们团聚一堂。

这不，刚上船不久，才过了安全防御演习，就坐下来听MIT的老教授开讲, 各种数据，报表，满天飞……，总之，大气二氧化碳污染，全球气温变暖，是不争的事实。我和BQ都是好学生，整个旅程，没有旷过一堂课，😂😂😂

船不知不觉启航啦……，静悄悄地在北冰洋上破浪前进。这里是我和BQ每天早上吃早餐的固定地方，多美❤️😊

兴奋地跑去船尾，拍下启航时远去风景…

6/24/2019， 一夜的航行，我们到达 BOLTODDEN。Am/pm 2℃/华氏36度。风速每小时10Km/hr.

On the eastern coast of Spitsbergen island lies Boltodden, literally meaning bolt point. A copper bolt was placed here in 1954 by the Norwegian Polar Institute as a topographical marking.

Unlike the West Coast of the Spitsbergen warmed by an arm of the golf stream, the uninhabited East Coast is cooled by cold currents coming in from the Arctic basin. These feeze fjords in winter, and permits the ice cover to linger far into the summer months. Historically, this was a good place for polar bear hunters to reside. Yet even an eager English prospector looking for coal came to Boltodden and you erected a cabin in 1927, still situated at the site today.

While we often think of Svalbard as the land of reindeer and polar bears, millions of years ago much larger animals walked these shores. Perhaps the most notable aspect of the Boltodden is that it is one of the few high-latitude dinosaur track sites in the world. Sandstone formations rise out of the ocean with perfectly preserved the lguanodon tracks dotting the surface. Iguanodons were large (10m,33ft) quadrupedal herbivores belonging to group of dinosaurs called Ornithopods. These tracks were left alone what was once a beach or Lake margin and show us that Svarbard was once a much warmer and humid place.

醒来，湖水一样平静的北冰洋，秀丽的山川在雾中向我们召唤。吃好早餐，跑到船头一通各种姿势，各种拍😃

   位于食物链的顶端的人类，曾经多么的残忍。英国人为了得到海象身上的油脂，架起练油锅，就地屠杀了无数的海象，差一点将它们赶尽杀绝。看着眼前一地的唉唉白骨，脑海中的屠杀场景，难以想像。周围一片片鲜红色的苔藓，一定是为了纪念逝去的海象们而生。🙏

  极地气候严酷，植物种类非常少，没有树木和森林，最常见的是这种小花, Purple saxifrage (saxifraga oppositifolia)。这里大部分的木材都是从俄罗斯随着北冰洋流漂流过来的。据说，俄罗斯在靠近北极处有许多核试验场，这些树木在生长过程中都嵌入了放射性物质。沿着岸边建的小木屋，最多临时遮风挡雨一晚，不能多住。😟

史前的恐龙脚印清晰可见！可想而知，这里曾经的气候应该温暖而潮湿的！一只 reindeer 悠然路过，大概没好好干活，从圣诞老人工厂里偷跑出来的。

目前的海象，受到挪威政府的极力保护，数量逐年增加，他们一个个有着肥胖的身躯，长而漂亮的象牙，懒懒的躺在沙滩上，吹着北极风，晒着北极不落的太阳😃。BQ说，她下辈子要当海象，就这样活着…😂😂😂

当然，听课是不能少的。Captain‘s gala evening with lots of alcohol and delicious French cuisine.

船长 Patrick Marchesseau，照片中拿话筒的那名帅哥。晚上还看了芭蕾; ’Muzik’ performed by the dancers Of the ballet Paris C’show.

醒来，迷雾茫茫。原定去看冰川，由于大雾，行程取消。

虽然没能去看Negribreen冰川，还是把发给我们的文字，记录在此….

Negribreen Is the largest glacier of the main island of Svarbard archipelago with an impressive front cliff of about 20 km wide. It was named after the founder and the first president of the Italian geographical society, Christoforo Negri.

About 70 years ago, its front was about two times wider as it is today as it reached further out into storfjord. In the recent years, Negribreen had an episode of massive acceleration none related to the climate (surge event) given it this very wild heavily crevassed appearance. Since 10 years, scientists start to focus on searching process which are still not well understood as it can occur for different reasons. Svarbard being a ‘surging hotspot’, several scientists are coming from all over the world to study this weird glazier’s behavior.

我们的小橡皮船，穿梭在鬼斧神工的冰雕之中，雾茫茫，水茫茫，水雾连天，极富有诗意…

浮冰形态各异，颜色各异。夹杂着亿万年前的泥土和冰封的植物…，

　　亿万年前的空气，被冰封在此！看着手上晶莹剔透，有无数小气泡的冰块，一种莫名的感慨和冲动。有一种时光倒流，触碰历史的欣喜若狂……

下图是一个死去的海豚尸体，漂浮在冰洋中，成了鸟类的美食。

由于下午冰川行程取消，只好自行安排，自得其乐。访问了驾驶舱，这里最多有四人值班，基本全自动驾驶，没有船长踪影。

今天的课程是, “ politics in the high North-the Arctic council” and “The changing climate conversation” 图一显示着中国大陆对北极的渗透及扩张！在西方人看来，是个非常可怕的举动。

晚上去听了 piano recital, with Yevgen KRASNYKH. Piano performance through the evolution of different classical music style. 第二天才知道，他不仅钢琴弹得好，照相也是一流。👍

6-26-2019 Hornsund 2°C/36F

Majestic peaks and dramatic fjords make a visit to hunt sound special. The highest summits are often found it in mist, but if you are lucky you might get a glimpse of one of the most stunning of small part, horse sound tenet, peaking at 1431 M.8.S Al. 4695 feet.

The English explorer Jonas Poole visited Hornstund in 1610, giving the fjord its name after his men had brought back a reindeer antler. Hornsund is a fjord on the western side of the southernmost tip of Spitsbergen island. The fjord’s mouth faces west to the Greeland sea, and is 12 km (7.5 miles) wide. Its length is 30 km (19 mile) with a mean depth of 90 m (300 feet) and a maximum depth of 260 m (815 feet).

Hornsund has different geological formations, From the precambrain to the west to the upper Mesozoic to the east and it is perpendicular to the main regional fractures of Spitsbergen. The coast line of hornsund is diversified, with a number of bays at the mouth of mountainous glacier valleys. Some of these bays have appeared as late as the beginning of the last century due to recession of glaciers.

While entering in the fjord, pay attention and port side, you might see the Polish research station which is the only year-round station out in the field in Svarbard. It has been operating since the international geophysical year of 1957-1958. 

一觉醒来，拉开窗帘，被眼前的景象惊呆了。艳阳高照，雄伟壮丽的雪山，冰川赫然出现在眼前不到100米的地方，这辈子第一次情不自禁地失声叫了起来。 BQ被吵醒，顿时也睡意全无！😳😊

当然，又是各种姿势，各种拍😜

别看坡度不大，但要走上山坡，还真的挺费力气。平时多多锻炼的体力，这会儿就都用上了。

回望，L’Austral 停泊在海天之间，背靠着皑皑的雪山，好一副风景明信片，画中游……

山坡背面有一个像镜子一样的美湖，被冰川雪山缆在怀里，这里的冰川，雪山，湖泊，空气，一切的一切都是充满了静谥，纯洁，干净得一点瑕疵都没有…

爬坡的时候，听到右边雪山后面有阵阵的轰鸣声，大概是小型雪崩吧。

钢琴家摇身一变，成摄影师，为我们在这无边的美景中，留下倩影。

Video worth thousand words................

真想化做这美景的一部分，留下不走了…

感谢探险小分队的工作人员，每次他们都先去实地勘测和考察，然后带我们这些乘客游览，给我们讲解。还要荷枪实弹的，以防饿急了的北极熊骚扰我们。

阳光明媚，午餐加了户外海鲜烧烤，在这美景下，吹着北冰洋的风，舌尖上的法餐越发鲜美，所有人类的感官通通调动起来，享受无比。😍😊🥰😋🤪

船长宣布，发现了一个雌性北极熊，全船兴奋，下午的行程取消！全船的人去在甲板上，观看这难得的野生北极熊。

幸亏BQ提醒，我们得以在自己的阳台上，近距离地观察这只北极熊。只可惜照相机没有长镜头，捕捉不到这只北极熊的细腻神态。

这是这次航行唯一看到的一只北极熊。后面倒数第二天，在距离船头一英里外，有一个北极熊在睡觉，全船的人耐心地等了她一天一夜，人家就是躺在冰洋上呼呼大睡，我们只好失望的离开了。

NY ÅLESUND, 6-27-2019 1°C /34°F

NY-Alesund is a research town on the island of Spitsbergen in Svarbard, Norway. It is situated on the brøgger peninsula (Brøggerhalvøya) and on the shore of the bay of Kongsfjorden.

The company town is owned and operated by Kings Bay, who provide facilities for permanent research institutes from 10 countries. It includes a port, an airport, a museum and 15 permanent research stations. It is the northern most functional civilian settlement in the world and its post office is considered to be the most northerly in the world.

The very-long-baseline interferometry station at Hamnerabben is sensitive to electromagnetic radiation is certain frequencies. Thus, there is in enforced a 20 km exclusion zone for devices transmitting at between 2.1 and 2.5 GHz. The band includes mobile telephones, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi and other wireless devices.

这个镇的Wi-Fi是由美国人造的，据说已经达到5G水平。由于不接受散客，这里的游人必须有游船带过来。所有的手机必须关闭，才能够进入这座城镇。

65 million years ago, there were tropical forests in Svarbard. In the passage of time, the vegetable material became coal. Here in Kingsbay, coal deposits meant the beginning of the story of Ny-Ålesund.

This train was built in Berlin in 1909 and came to Ny-Ålesund via Salangsverket in Troms, Norway, in 1917. Coal was hauled out of the mines and down to the wharf with large trains, and this light, little train brought the coal out onto the quay. From here, the coal was transported to the mainland via boat. Behind the train are Mellageret (the four Storeroom) and Jernlageret (The Iron Storeroom), both of which were built shortly after the town was built.

In Ny-Ålesund one can witness reindeer and arctic foxes. Some are barred reindeer are a separate genius of reindeer that are only found in Svarbard. Svarbard reindeer are small, has short legs, and small heads.

The arctic fox is found throughout the Svarbard. It has adapted to the Arctic environment, and its winter coat has an insulating capacity higher than that of any other mammals.

虽然北极的夏天异常寒冷，但仍开遍了各色鲜艳的花朵。

  With its location at almost 79° north Ny-Ålesind is the worlds northernmost permanent settlement. Ny-Ålesund was originally a mining community establised in 1916, but today it is a center for international Arctic scientific research and environmental monitoring. The buildings and infrastructures are owned and run by the Norwegian state owned company Kingsbay AS.

12 research stations are established in Ny-Ålesund, representing 10 different countries, Norway, Germany, Japan, Great Britain, the Netherlands, Italy, France, South Korea, China and India.

看到那两只鹅了吗，他们每天年夏天来这儿交配，是受保护的。 in the area close to town is that bird sanctuary with a restricted access between 15 May and 15 August. Among the birds that maybe found nesting here is the barnacle goose. These geese spend the winter in Scotland and then return to nest in the Arctic. For years the barnacle goose has been studied by British, Dutch, and Norwegian researchers. The arctic tern also returns to nest in Ny-Ålesund. It is quite an aggressive bird and Will attack anyone in its vicinity. Do not try to hit it, but hold something over your head and keep calm.

Roald Engelbregt Gravning Amundsen (UK: /ˈɑːmʊndsən/, US: /-məns-/;[2][3][needs Norwegian IPA] 16 July 1872 – c. 18 June 1928) was a Norwegian explorer of polar regions and a key figure of the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. He led the first expedition to traverse the Northwest Passage in 1906 and the first expedition to the South Pole in 1911. He led the first expedition proven to have reached the North Pole in 1926.[4][5] He disappeared while taking part in a rescue mission for the airship Italia in 1928.

由于永久性冻土，这里所有的管道都铺在地面上，用木材罩在外边，以防冻坏。所有消费物资都通过飞机运抵小镇。夏天是这里最美，最热闹的时光。据说冬天来临的时候，全镇大概只有两个人守在这里，大部分人就通通撤回本国。

人类最北端的小卖铺兼邮局，营业员决定当天10:00才上班，结果排了近两个小时的队，买了帽子， t-shirt ,几个明信片和冰箱磁铁。6/27/2019-7/15/2019， 从遥远的北极，到靠近赤道的休斯敦，我寄的明信片共走了18天。

房子五颜六色，极具北欧特色。这里所有门都不上锁，为了人们可以随时躲避北极熊的袭击。

看那边冰川前的房子，如果夏天来这里避暑，一定非常美妙😍🥰🤪

小镇周边的景色，和回船时的风景……

船上唯一的美国船员，来自阿拉斯加。他说一共要在船上服务到10月底。问他怎么能够忍受每天吃法国餐的borning，小伙子坦白的告诉我，每餐必加辣椒酱。偷偷从美国带了好多瓶辣椒酱，还要我不要告诉船上的厨师，怕他厨师朋友听了伤心。

早知道，我会带辣椒酱，每天吃法国餐，真的索然无味😊

下午航行的目标，是King‘s glacier. 蓝天慢慢的被厚厚的云层所取代，苍鹰低旋，一座座挺拔的雪山，一片片雪白的冰川，悄然从身边划过。阳光透过云层，给雪山，冰川披上斑驳，酷炫而华丽的婚纱…，这里的景观，应该不属于这个世界的。词穷…🙃

一座座拔地而起的奇峰，环抱着错落有致，冰洁玉肤般的冰川，在极昼的阳光下，展示着世间最原始，最动人的自然景观…

一座座形状迥异，晶莹剔透的冰川冰 (Iceberg)，排着队在我们眼前走过，它们从地球亿万年的冰川而来，默默地讲述着人类星球的变化，用心去聆听，感悟….....，也许几天，也许几个小时，他们就将化为北冰洋中跳舞的水分子。感叹被上苍自然之手精雕细琢千万年的工艺品，不管你在与不在，被欣赏与否，都会慢慢的在时光隧道中，化为乌有。

专家说冰川融化，是自然现象，与气候变暖无关。但北冰洋融化，洋冰是与气候变暖密切相关的。

凭栏眺望，King´s glacier 就在眼前，仿佛一伸手，就能触碰到千万年前恒古不变的年伦。

King’s glacier！雄伟，壮观。有幸来到它的脚下，仰望它的雄姿，倾听它的’怒吼”，全身心地品尝这美景盛餐…

请欣赏这亿万年前走来的冰川，它的脚步从没有停过。

从橡皮船上回眸凝望，L’Austral 己融化在海天冰川之中，美！让人窒息。

一大块晶莹剔透的冰川冰，怒吼着，像婴儿分娩一样, 慢慢脱离King’s glacier.

WOW, glacier calving in action.......

冰的探戈，冰的歌声，冰的舞蹈，冰的世界…

回船后，发现不远处驶来Ponant的姐妹船，船长临时决定，到姐妹船上叙叙家常。所以我们在船上耐心地等待船长回家😂

每次回到船上，酒吧里总是笑语欢声。太阳不知啥时又从云层里钻了出来，品着鸡尾酒，听着美妙的歌声，看着眼前恒古不变的美景，心想：不知这大冰川是否比巴黎埃菲尔铁塔还要高，还要厚。

大概没玩尽兴，身上太多能量，晚上睡不着觉。决定去健身房锻炼。己是深夜12:00am，健身房空无一人。船不知疲倦地继续向前驶去，一个人在这儿，伴着如影随行的雪山冰海，美美地锻炼了一个多小时。

Friday, June 28 2019, Morning/afternoon -1 Celsius/ 30 Fahrenheit

Magdalenafjorden (Madelaines Bay) was named in honor of the biblical character by Carolus in 1614. This area was used as a Whaling station during the 17th century. Gravneset, little hill in the bay, was the first used to melt down the whale blubber into whale oil until 1623 and was used as a cemetery until the end of 17th century. This most impressive field is encased by mountains scaling up to 1000m and ends with that Waggonway glacier at its head.

Smeerenburgfjorden and Amsterdamoya:

The largest Dutch waiting station Of the Svalbard archipelago was located on Amsterdamoya(Amsterdam island) and was active from 1619 until 1645.

Danskoya (Danish island) was also home to a whaling station in Virgohamna which was built in 1625. The stations activities slowly decrease until it was closed down in the late 17th century.

During the 18th century Virgohamna was used as a base for several attempts to reach the north pole by the air using balloons and zeppelins. The Swedish August Saloman Andee was the first to use the bay for exploration purpose in the 1890s. His attempt to the north pole failed resulting in the death of the whole party.

17世纪初，英国人，丹麦人和荷兰人在这里大量捕杀鲸鱼。他们在雪地上架起大铜锅，就地提炼鲸油。下面小图图二，就是当时放置铜锅处。图三图四是乱葬岗。由于自然条件极其恶劣，许多人不胜寒冷疾病，葬身荒芜的北极，长眠于此……。

 

18世纪，欧洲许多探险家以此做基地，用热气球或大型飞艇向北极点进发。1890年，瑞典探险家 Augusta Solomon Andee 由此地出发，向北极点探险，但全军覆没。

这次出行，开始气候极其恶劣，风很大，下着小雪，脸冻得生疼……，但转瞬即逝，太阳从厚厚的云层中露出笑脸，给藏青色及雪白的大地披上了金银色的衣裳

从阴到晴，说变就变，一点没商量。🤪

决定登上小山，看全景。这小山看着不高，登上去却波费一番周折。天寒地冻，风又大，真的使出了吃奶的力气才爬上去。

功夫不负有心人，this is my reward........。刚才还在下边的浮冰和小湖旁边，现在已经变成很小的影像啦😊

请慢慢欣赏❤️

从小山上下来，接着开始爬旁边白雪皑皑的小坡，图一，回首看刚刚攀登的小山…，

后面紧跟着俺Baylor 医学院同窗们。他们是鸟类爱好者，途中居然还找到了海胆化石👍

小坡后面藏着一汪蓝绿清澈的冰川湖泊，可惜他们不让我再往前走了。回船的时间到了。

回去时边走边舞😂，乌云慢慢漂移过来，请看背后那最后一圈艳阳。

开始刮北极风，下北极雪。但北极的风雪怎能挡住火热的童心😂😜

世界开始变成黑白色…，两只海象卿卿我我，躺在浮冰上，旁若无人

船终于到达我们这次航行的最北端，北纬80度。停靠在一望无际，冰封的洋面上。So cool...，北极点只有10度之遥—北纬90度。

雪与阳光，在山峦起伏的冰川及雪山上热舞…，看得我目瞪口呆😳

胖子海象及形态各异的洋冰。

洋冰之融化，受气候变暖之影响。与冰川冰融化原理不同。洋冰的形状也与冰川冰不同，洋冰表面非常平整， 一块块地从冰冻的海洋融化………

北极最具代表性的红嘴鸟，Puffin. Every class needs a clown, And these arctic birds seem happy to oblige. But even though puffins are called “see Clowns“ for their bright facial coloring, they are also known as ‘little brothers of the north’ for the black and white hue of their bodies. Many people think this resembles the garments of certain religious orders.

当船长在广播中告诉我们又可以出行了，我欣喜若狂。BQ有点小担心，怕掉进冰窟窿里😂😂😂. 以最快的速度穿戴整齐，唯独忘了抹防晒霜。回来黑了一圈。

　　这次彻底领教了法国人的浪漫情怀。他们在北冰洋上铺上白桌布，摆上香槟（自然冷冻，不需冰箱），给每一位登上冰面的客人敬酒！虽然寒风凛冽，但欢声笑语，温暖着这恒古寂静，白茫茫的北冰洋！

童心未泯，激情永在！

天茫茫，冰茫茫，在海天之间，我们尽情地释放着所有的快乐…，话说那法国香槟酒，真的没喝几口😜。

Baylor College of Medicine, class of 1995 reunion on Arctic Ice 🥰🥳🥳🥳

远处还真的有冰窟窿。我们只能在旗子标志的范围内活动。

　　Farewell Gala。船长最后说了一番语重心长地道别语。他说：你们马上就回到现实生活中了，被世间凡人俗事所包围着。清晨，不再会有人为你端上一杯热气腾腾的咖啡，当你累了，也不再会有人随时调上一杯五彩缤纷，沁人心脾的鸡尾酒。不会再有人每个晚上为你跳舞，唱歌，弹琴，傍晚，也不再会有人为你铺好床铺，拉上窗帘，营造一个温馨的睡眠环境。希望你们记住我们在一起的时光，常回来看看我们…，非常动情+煽情的道别。

Saterday, June 29, 2019 Morning 3°C /37°F, Afternoon 4C /39°F

Sea ice is simply frozen ocean water. It forms, grows and melts in the ocean. The ice layer covering the Arctic basin and the north pole is known as the pack ice, where a single plate of sea ice is known as an ice floe. The colliding ice floes due to ocean currents and winds is what forms pressure ridges, much resembling tectonic movement.

Salt water freeze at low temperatures, around -1.8°C. Around 300 to 450 feet water column of same cooled temperature sea water is required for the surface to be able to start to freeze. Over time the salt trapped in pockets between the ice crystals is expelled, making older sea ice usable for drinking water as many explores have done.

Sea ice forming in winter and melting the following summer is known as annual ice. Sea ice surviving the summer and continuing to grow thicker over the next winter is known as multiyear or perennial ice. Perennial ice is less prone to wind drift and breaking up by swell, and is desirable to keep covering the Arctic basin. However, as sea ice cover in the Arctic is diminishing so is that percentage off perennial ice.

The forming of sea ice plays two important roles. One. The Alberto effect; an ice cover reflects more heat than the open ocean which absorbs heat. Two. Water below sea ice has a higher concentration of salt and is more dense than surrounding ocean water, and so it sinks. In this way, sea ice contributes to the oceans global thermohaline circulation.

一位耶鲁老教授，从八岁起就对鸟类非常感兴趣。他已经研究了30多年，出版了好几本书。他的演讲非常风趣，诙谐。我从他那里学习了很多关于人类进化，和鸟类的知识。尤其是他的兴趣所在是研究鸟类 penis，I somehow know more about bird penis than I ever want to 😂😂😂😂😂

回程中，百无聊赖，没有Wi-Fi，开始修补衣服.....

看了最后一个晚上的表演，然后和帅哥美女们拍照留念。

清晨，船慢慢驶进Longyearbyan的港湾，坐在我们的老地方，品尝最后一杯咖啡。跟菲律宾籍酒吧小哥互道珍重。

留念

一周的行程和所到之处。

下船后，乘着大巴在小镇里转悠转悠，看到an interesting trafic sign, 下车拍照留念

现代艺术博物馆，保存了许多当地艺术家的照片及作品

自然博物馆里，有关北极熊的信息是一大亮点。

在自然博物馆里，还保存了许多动物标本及N年前的煤矿隧道。

有幸在小城最繁华的街上逛逛，由于是星期天，大多数商店都不开门。尤其是超市，要下午3:00才开门，这是怎样的一个作息时间啊？🙃🙃🙃

商店里也充斥着许多北极熊的装饰及商品。

大巴带着我们又在小城里转了转，讲解员非常详细的介绍了当地的文化，生活，设施等等。看到小山坡上的那一排房子吗？那是当地的富人区。不过，最近由于冻土迁移，那些房子地基已经开始移动了。房价也随之下来了。

机场侯机厅前面的指示牌，在雪山的映照下，好有艺术气息。

醉美机场侯机厅

再见，北极！来过，看过，从此愛着…，人生了无遗憾！

附上这次北极行“自觉得意”的摄影作品。每一张照片都没有动过手脚，完完全全的原版及原创。