北京的故事

杨晓江

<p>老青,地道的北京孩子,西城的。后来去山城学了建筑,没想到命运从此和北京结下了不解之缘……</p><p><br></p><p>每年春节我们总要争取聚聚,每次聚会,老青都是最爱聊的,这次,我们聊的是北京……</p><p><br></p><p>老青说,北京开始被全面拆除,是1949-1969年20年间,那也只是个开始……当时著名建筑专家梁思成和其学生罗哲文和留英建筑专家陈占祥提出了“梁陈方案”该方案建议,在北京城西再建一座新城,长安街就象是一根扁担,挑起北京新旧二城,新城是现代中国的政治心脏,旧城则是中国古代城市博物馆。北京老城的西面,也就是百万庄地区建立新北京城,这个区域在北京的主城墙外面,向西有辽阔的发展空间,如果按照这个方案,北京老城就能够完整无缺保留下来。从照片上可以看到那时老 城墙东面和西面都是没有古建筑的大片农田,而城墙内是大片的四合院……</p> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">但是梁陈方案最终没有得到采纳,这也是北京古城走向破碎的第一个错误。当时苏联专家说,以天安门为中心没问题,看看莫斯科就是以克里姆林宫为中心的</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">苏联专家只是忘了中国人口是他们的多少倍!于是北京把高大的城墙在东边、西边分别扒开了两个口子,就是现在的建国门和复兴门了,在两个门之间修了一条笔直宽广的车道,就是现在的长安街了。又在长安街两边按照中俄混合风格修建了北京火车站、历史博物馆、人民大会堂、民族文化宫、北京广播大厦、军事博物馆等十大建筑</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">北京由此形成了以天安门、中南海、人民大会堂为中心的城市,这就是现代北京的基本格局</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3> <h3></h3><h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">据史料记载,北京古城的城墙是</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">1952</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">9</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">月开始拆的。大面积、大规模拆外城城墙,是</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">1956</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年开始的,到</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">1958</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年就拆光了。那些古城墙上的巨大城门也多半灰飞烟灭,个别的留下了辉煌的城门。但这些城门的名字都基本被用于名命名为在二环路上的各个立交桥:阜成门桥、西直门桥、德胜门桥、朝阳门桥、崇文门桥</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">北京基本在原来城墙的位置打通了第一条环北京的公路,二环路。</span></h3> <h3></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">城墙拆了,北京古城还在,1990年张清长写的《再说胡同》中统计,1980年北京街巷胡同的数量为6092条,那时大片</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">的四合院还在</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">北京古城第二次大面积改造是北京东面</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">CBD</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">区的建设和北京西面金融街的建设。中央商务区与中央金融区的建设,肯定是一个现代化大都市的重中之重。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">老青说:新世纪来临,金融街的建设被圈定在北京复兴门到阜成门之间,因为在这个区域已经有面临长安街的中国人民银行,和面临阜成门的中国银行两个大厦。</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">金融街设计出来以后,朱镕基总理亲自关心,他提出了一个问题,为什么设计的楼都显得如此矮胖?很显然,在地价如此昂贵的地区,盖的楼越高,浪费的钱越少</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">总理的指示很快由建设部转给北京市,让北京市拿出一个设计意见,北京市马上把这个意见又推回给建设部,认为事关重大应该由建设部考虑</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">建设部考虑再三,把这个任务交给了“建设部文物保护研究院”研究,老青正是当时这个研究院的院长。为什么是文物保护研究院?因为北京的中心区域是故宫</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">故宫是木结构建筑,风太大了容易被风化,如果四周都起了高楼,形成井状包围,没有风了,湿气无法散出来,故宫会毁灭的更快。</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">当时金融街向东已经基本上到了中南海的边缘,因此设计高度必须控制。但控制在多高最合理?这就是朱镕基总理提出问题的关键</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">老青带领他的研究院研究后发现,北京气流主要是南北要保持通透,现在北京以故宫为中心,南北从永定门到亚运村基本是低平建筑,可以有利古城的保护,但剩下东西两面可发展的区域就显得十分狭窄,如果在这两个区域高度集中发展,马上会带来城市发展的几个新的问题</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">老青说,我们研究发现的这些问题,已经远远超出了研究建筑高度这个技术问题</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">18</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年前,老青的研究报告说,如果一个城市以一个中央区为中心高度发展,必然会导致以下问题:</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">1</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">)人口高度集中,必然导致中心区域房价飙升</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">2</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">)交通高度集中,必然造成交通罕见拥挤,甚至瘫痪</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">3</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">)向中央区域的道路发展需求可能会不断扩大,北京古城将不复存在</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">老青他们提出的解决办法是:</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">1</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">)把故宫搬家</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">或者</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">2</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">)把北京的中心搬家</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">这个研究结果一出,建设部和北京市没法上报</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">老青说,我给总理直接写信</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">以上这段往事,发表在《观察》</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">金融街后来发展是有节制的、</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">CBD</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">的发展后来也是有节制的</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">尽管如此,老青报告里的事情还是一件一件的发生了:</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">北京东西城的房价从几千一平米已经飙升到了十几万一平米,盖房子的空间已经没有了,不得不提出限购</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">交通瘫痪、购车限购、空气污染</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">北京大片的胡同逐渐消失,从以前的</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">6500</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">余条,只剩下了不足</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">1000</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">条</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">2017</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年,老青给朱镕基总理写信后的</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">15</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年,北京决定把市政府搬出北京,搬到通州</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">2017</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年,中央决定建立河北雄安新区,这个计划被称为“千年大计”</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">北京终于开始走出单中心的发展模式,开始走向多中心发展的未来</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">北京啊!那些在与不在了的北京!在老青嘴里侃侃而谈,想着二环路、三环路、四环路、五环路、六环路陆续建成、平安大道穿心而过</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">我们又一篇一篇的翻动着北京的过去与将来</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.SF UI Display&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69); min-height: 27.4px;"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;"></span><br></h3><h3> </h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">老青说:“</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">15</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年前我们想到了城市化的大潮会席卷北京</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">没想到这是一场海啸</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">……</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">”</span></h3> <p style="font-stretch: normal; font-size: 23px; line-height: normal; font-family: &quot;.PingFang SC&quot;; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><span style="font-family: &quot;.SFUIDisplay&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">2019</span><span style="font-family: &quot;.PingFangSC-Regular&quot;; font-size: 23pt;">年初四聚会于北京鲜鱼口胡同便宜坊烤鸭店,初五成文于水星园</span></h3><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; color: rgb(69, 69, 69);"><font face=".PingFangSC-Regular"><span style="font-size: 30.66666603088379px;">文中图片和史料来自于网络,当我在那些已经被拆的照片上一幅幅写着“拆”字的时候,手都写抖了……没有写拆字的照片,是现在保留下来的老房子……</span></font></h3>