走进西藏 圆梦阿里（中英文版） Into the Tibetan dream Ali (Chinese and English version)

郭超

　　西藏美吗？美，太美了！您去了后会被那里的景色所震撼！
Is Tibet beautiful? Beautiful, beautiful! When you go, you will be shocked by the scenery there.

今年6月，我与两位朋友历经23天，安全快乐地完成了阿里环线自驾游。对我们三位均为60岁以上的人来说这是一次探险，也是一次冒险。

In June of this year, I went through 23 days with two friends, and completed the tour of Ali ring safely and happily. This is an adventure and an adventure for all three of us over the age of 60.

我们除了要面对高海拔（阿里地区平均海拔4500米）的考验，又因单车进藏，困难可想而知。好在全程8700多公里只坏过一次轮胎.

In addition to facing the test of high altitude (the average altitude in Ali is 4,500 meters), we are also faced with the difficulty of entering Tibet by bicycle. Fortunately, the whole course of more than 8700 kilometers only once a tire.

我要感谢那些为我们祈福平安的朋友，要感谢阿里对我们这些人的垂爱，更要感谢这片值得我们敬畏的土地！

I want to thank our friends who have prayed for our peace, for Ali's love for all of us, and for this land that is worthy of our awe!

这次进藏是我第三次，前两次都没去阿里，这便成了我很久很久的梦。对于阿里不身临其境，您永远无法想象多彩的阿里有多美。阿里绝对是世界拼图中最绚丽的那一块！阿里的神秘，阿里的大美，阿里的诱惑深深地吸引着我。

This time I went to Tibet for the third time, and I did not go to Ali for the first two times. You can never imagine how beautiful Ali is for Ali. Ali is absolutely the most brilliant piece in the world puzzle. The allure of Ali, Ali's beauty and Ali's attraction deeply attracted me.

三次进藏，三次追梦，三次收获。请各位亲跟随我们的足迹，在光与影地陪伴下走进西藏，圆梦阿里！

The three time for Tibet, three times for dreams and three harvest. Please follow our footsteps and walk into Tibet with the light and shadow.

一、穿越景观大道 品味旷世美景

（请横屏观看）

（Please watch the screen.）

　　贡嘎山，周围有海拔6000米以上的山峰45座，主峰更耸立于群峰之巅，海拔7556米，是四川省最高的山峰，被称为“蜀山之王”。

Gongga Mountain, surrounded by 45 peaks above 6000 meters above sea level, the main peak is even more towering at the top of the peak, 7556 meters above sea level, is the highest mountain in Sichuan Province, known as the King of Shushan.

　　

　　折多山位于四川甘孜境内，海拔4298米，是重要的地理分界线，折多山以东是山区，以西则是青藏高原真正的藏区。

Located in Ganzi, Sichuan Province, at an elevation of 4298 meters, Mount Cheduoshan is an important geographical boundary. Mountainous areas lie east of Mount Cheduoshan and Tibetan plateau lies west of it.

　　“摄影天堂”新都桥

Photography paradise new bridge

　　山花烂漫高尔寺（海拔4412米）

The mountain flower is magnificent. The temple is 4412 meters above sea level.

　 稻城秋色 Autumn scenery of Daocheng

　 桑堆传说中的稻城红草地

The legendary Daocheng red grassland

　　香格里拉之魂——亚丁 （三座神山），其景致保持着在地球上近绝迹的纯净，被誉为“水蓝色星球上的最后一片净土”。

1 . 夏洛多吉神山（海拔5958米）

The souls of Shangri-La, the three divine mountains of Aden, are known as the last pure land on the aqua-blue planet, with scenery that remains nearly extinct on Earth.

1.The xia-luoduoji is 5958 meters above sea level.

　　2 . 央迈勇神山海拔5958米

2 , The yang-maiyong is 5958 meters above sea level.

　 3 . 仙乃日神山（海拔6032米）

　 3. The xian-nairi is 6032 meters above sea level.

　　天堂掉下的宝石——姊妹湖（海拔4685米）

The gem dropped from heaven - the sister lake is 4685 meters above sea level.

　　金色青稞飘香来

The golden highland barley is fragrant.

　　流向湄公河的澜沧江，其干流全长4909公里，流经中国、老挝、缅甸、泰国、柬埔寨和越南，是亚洲最重要的跨国水系，世界第七大河流。

The Lancang River flows 4909 kilometers across China, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. It is the most important transnational water system in Asia and the seventh largest river in the world.

　　东达山（海拔5008米）

Dongda mountain is 5008 meters above sea level.

　　川藏南、北线交会处——邦达草原（海拔4400米）

The intersection of Sichuan Zangnan and the Northern Line -- the grassland of Banda is 4400 meters above sea level.

　　“怒江72拐”是位于西藏昌都地区八宿县境内的一条险路，在国道318线邦达至八宿区间，这条路也称“川藏99道弯”。

Nujiang 72 turning is a dangerous road in Basu County, Changdu District, Tibet. It is between Bangda and Basu on National Highway 318. This road is also called the bend of 99 Sichuan-Tibet Road.

　　然乌湖（海拔3850米）

Ran Wu lake (3850 meters above sea level)

　　米堆冰川 midui glacier

　　波密田园 bomi countryside

　　天堑变通途——通麦天险再无险。通麦天险全长14公里，号称“通麦坟场”，是川藏线最险的一段路。在波密县城和林芝县鲁朗镇之间。这里号称“亚洲第二大泥石流群”。

过去的通麦天险

Natural cutting is the way to go. It is the most dangerous part of the Sichuan Tibet line, which is 14 kilometers long, known as Tongmai cemetery. Between the Bomi County town and Linzhi County, Shandong Province. This is known as the second largest debris flow in Asia.

Past 's Tongmai natural danger

　　如今的通麦天险

Today's Tongmai natural danger

　　“生物基因库”——鲁朗

Biological gene bank -- Lu Lang

　　世界最美十大名山——南迦巴瓦峰，它地处喜马拉雅山脉、念青唐古拉山脉和横断山脉的交会处，是西藏林芝地区最高的山，海拔7782米。

Located at the intersection of the Himalayas, Nyingqing Tanggula and Hengduan Mountains, Mount Namjabawa, one of the ten most beautiful mountains in the world, is the highest mountain in the Linzhi region of Tibet, with an elevation of 7782 meters.

　　西藏首条高速公路：林芝——拉萨高速公路。
The first expressway in Tibet: Linzhi --Lasa expressway.

　　尼洋河是雅鲁藏布江支流之一，全长307公里，藏语意为“神女的眼泪”。沿河两岸植被完好，风光旖旎，景色迷人，是青藏高原最美丽的河流之一。

The nyanghe river is one of the tributaries of the Yarlung Zangbo River, with a total length of 307 kilometers. Along the banks of the river, the vegetation is beautiful, the scenery is charming, and the scenery is charming. It is one of the most beautiful rivers in the Qinghai Tibet Plateau.

　　尼洋河中的中流砥柱

The mainstay of the Niyanghe River

　　布达拉宫是世界上海拔最高，集宫殿、城堡和寺院于一体的宏伟建筑，宫殿高200余米，是西藏最庞大、最完整的古代宫堡建筑群，也是藏式古建筑的杰出代表，中华民族古建筑的精华之作。
Potala Palace is the world's highest elevation, a collection of palaces, castles and monasteries in one of the magnificent building, the palace is more than 200 meters high, Tibet's largest and most complete ancient castle complex, is also an outstanding representative of ancient Tibetan architecture, the essence of the Chinese nation's ancient architecture.
布达拉宫是历代达赖喇嘛冬宫居所，以及重大宗教和政治仪式举办地，是供奉历世达赖喇嘛灵塔之地，也是藏传佛教（格鲁派）的圣地。
The Potala Palace is the residence of the Dalai Lama's Winter Palace and the site of major religious and political ceremonies. It is a place for worship of the Dalai Lama's spiritual pagoda and a sacred place for Tibetan Buddhism (the Gelug sect).

　　大昭寺是藏王松赞干布建造。拉萨之所以有“圣地”之誉，与大昭寺有关。寺庙最初称“惹萨”，后来惹萨又成为这座城市的名称，并演化成当下的“拉萨”。

The Jokhang Temple is built by Song Xan Gan Bbu, the Tibetan king. Lhasa's reputation as a holy land is related to the Jokhang Temple. The temple was originally called JSA, and later, Jones became the name of the city and evolved into the present Lhasa.

1300多年的历史，使其在藏传佛教中拥有至高无上的地位。

Over 1300 years of history, it has the highest status in Tibetan Buddhism.

　　二 、挺进日喀则 触摸雄浑珠峰
Two, advance into Shigatse and touch the magnificent Mount Everest

　　人间仙境的一抹蓝——羊卓雍措。藏语意为“碧玉湖”，像珊瑚枝一般，因此它在藏语中又被称为“上面的珊瑚湖” ，湖面海拔4441米。

A blue of the fairyland in the world - Yang Zhuoyong. Tibetan means Jasper Lake, like a coral branch, so it is also known in Tibetan as the top of the coral lake, Lake elevation of 4441 meters above sea level.

其位于西藏山南市浪卡子县，与纳木措、玛旁雍措并称西藏三大圣湖，是喜马拉雅山北麓最大的内陆湖泊，湖光山色之美，冠绝天下。

Located in Langkazi County, Shannan City, Tibet, together with Namutsuo and Mapanyungcuo, it is the largest inland lake in the northern foot of the Himalayas. It has a beautiful scenery of lakes and mountains.

　　卡若拉冰川——西藏三大大陆型冰川之一（海拔5039米）

Karula glacier is one of the three major continental glaciers in Tibet (5039 meters above sea level)

　　加乌拉山，是世界上唯一可以观赏4座8000米级雪峰的观景平台（从左向右排列是：玛卡鲁峰、洛子峰、珠穆朗玛峰、卓奥友峰）。

Mount Gaura is the world's only viewing platform for four 8,000-meter snow peaks (from left to right: Makaru, Luozi, Everest, Zhuo Aoyou)

　　威武雄浑 昂首天外——珠穆朗玛峰（海拔8844.43米）。它是喜马拉雅山脉的主峰，也是世界海拔最高的山峰，顶峰位于中国境内。也称为地球的第三极。

Strong and forceful outside the sky -- Mount Qomolangma (8844.43 meters above sea level). It is the main peak of the Himalaya mountains and the highest peak in the world, with its peak in China. It is also called the third pole of the earth.

藏语中“珠穆”是女神的意思，“朗玛”是第三的意思。因为在珠穆朗玛峰的附近还有四座山峰，珠峰位居第三，所以称为珠穆朗玛峰。

Qomo is meaning of goddess in Tibetan language, langma is meaning of third.

Because there are four other peaks near Mount Qomolangma and Mount Qomolangma is the third, it is called Mount Qomolangma.

　 浩瀚银河映珠峰

Vast galaxy reflects Mount Everest

佩枯措位于日喀则地区聂拉木县境内，三面环山，地形开阔，鱼类资源丰富，湖岸有野马、藏野驴、藏羚羊等动物出没活动。深秋时节，岸边水鸟栖息，将佩枯措衬托得更显风姿。

Peikutuo is located in Nielamu County, Xigaze region, surrounded by mountains on three sides, with open terrain and rich fish resources. There are wild horses, Tibetan wild donkeys, Tibetan antelope and other animals haunting the lake shore. In late autumn, waterfowl perched on the shore, showing the appearance of Pejo.

　　希夏邦马峰海拔8012米，在世界14座8000米级高峰中排名第14位。是唯一一座完全在中国境内的8000米级山峰。它坐落在喜马拉雅山脉中段，也是喜马拉雅山脉著名的高峰之一。

Xi Xia Bang Ma Feng, 8012 meters above sea level, ranks fourteenth in the world's 14 8000 meter peak. It is the only 8000 meter mountain peak in China. It is located in the middle of the Himalaya mountains and is also one of the famous peaks in the Himalaya mountains.

　　仲巴大草原（海拔4700米）

Zhongba prairie (4700 meters above sea level)

　　三 、走近雪域 走向阿里

Three, approaching snowfield to Ali

　　如果说西藏是"世界的屋脊"，那么阿里就是"西藏的屋脊"。都说拉萨往西，才是真正的西藏。有人把阿里称为"万山之祖"、"百川之源"。

If Tibet is the roof of the world, then Ali is the roof of Tibet. It is said that the west of Lhasa is the real Tibet. Some people call Ali the ancestor of Wanshan and the source of all rivers.

因为这里有世界级神山——冈仁波齐；有藏地圣湖之首玛旁雍措；有被称为世界第三极的世界最大的陆地冰川——普诺岗日冰川；有全国面积最大的野生动物栖息地——羌塘国家野生动物保护区；
Because there are world-class Shenshan-Gang Rinpoche, the first of the holy lakes in Tibet-Mapan Yongcuo, the world's largest land glacier known as the world's third pole-Punogangri Glacier, and the largest wildlife habitat in the country-Qiangtang National Wildlife Reserve.

有世界海拔最高的鸟岛——班公措；这里还有辽阔的札达土林和拥有七百年历史的古格王国遗址。

There is Ban Gongcuo, the highest bird island in the world; there are also vast Zadatulin and 700-year-old ruins of the Guge Kingdom.

　　西藏第一圣湖玛旁雍错（海拔4588米）在阿里地区普兰县境内、岗仁波齐峰之南。它是中国蓄水量第二大的天然淡水湖，是中国目前实测透明度最大的湖，透明度可达14米。它也是亚洲四大河流的发源地。

Mapan Yongcuo, the first Saint Lake in Tibet (4588 meters above sea level) is located in Pulan County, Ali Prefecture, south of Ganglinboqi Peak. It is the second largest natural freshwater lake in China and the most transparent lake in China, with a transparency of up to 14 meters. It is also the birthplace of the four largest rivers in Asia.

自古以来佛教信徒都把玛旁雍错湖看作是圣地“世界中心”，信徒们认为，玛旁雍错是佛主赐给人们的甘露。

Since ancient times, Buddhist believers have regarded Lake Mapan Yongcuo as the center of the Holy world, believers believe that Mapan Yongcuo is the dew given by the Buddha.

它能清除人们肌肤上的污秽，能洗净人心灵上的五毒，更能延年益寿。历来的朝圣者都以到过此湖转经洗浴为人生最大幸事。

It can remove the filth of people's skin, wash away the five poisons of human mind, and prolong life. All the pilgrims have gone to the lake to bathe, which is the greatest blessing in life.

　　西藏“鬼湖”——拉昂措（海拔4574米），藏语意为“有毒的黑湖”，与玛旁雍措一路相隔，为微咸水湖，因此，湖水人畜皆不能饮用，植被不能生长，这大概便是“鬼湖”之名的由来。

Ghost Lake in Tibet - La Angcuo (4574 meters above sea level), Tibetan means poisonous black lake, and Ma Bian Yongcuo all the way away, is a brackish water lake, therefore, the lake can not be drinkable, vegetation can not grow, which is probably the origin of the name of Ghost Lake.

　　冈仁波齐是世界公认的神山，同时被中国西藏雍仲苯教、印度教、藏传佛教、 以及古耆那教认定为世界的中心。它并非这一地区最高的山峰，但是只有它终年积雪的峰顶能够在阳光照耀下闪耀着奇异的光芒，夺人眼目。

Gang Rinpoche is recognized as the world's God mountain, at the same time by the Chinese Tibetan Yongzhongben religion, Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism, and ancient Jainism as the world's center. It is not the tallest mountain in the region, but only the snowy peaks that shine in the sunshine all year round can catch the eye.

加上特殊的山形，与周围的山峰迥然不同，让人不得不充满宗教般的虔诚与惊叹，从而吸引着来自世界各地的朝圣者。其海拔6638米，是冈底斯山的主峰。

In addition, the special shape of the mountain is quite different from the surrounding peaks, so people have to be filled with religious piety and amazement, thus attracting pilgrims from all over the world. Its elevation is 6638 meters and is the main peak of the Gangdise mountains.

　　纳木那尼峰，藏语意为“圣母之山”，被称为“神女峰”，位于阿里地区普兰县，海拔7694米，是喜马拉雅西段中国境内的最高峰，这里分布着大量冰川群。

Namnani Peak, Tibetan meaning of Notre Dame, is called Goddess Peak, located in Ali Prefecture, Pulan County, 7694 meters above sea level, is the highest peak in China in the western Himalayas, where a large number of glaciers are distributed.

　　西藏札达土林国家地质公园位于有“世界屋脊的屋脊””之称的阿里地区札达县境内，分布在海拔为3750～4450米的范围，是世界上分布面积最大、最典型的地层风化形成的土林。

Zada Tulin National Geopark in Tibet is located in Zanda County, Ali Region, which is known as the ridge of the world's roof. It is located in the range of 3750-4450 meters above sea level. It is the largest and most typical soil forest formed by stratum weathering in the world.

　　古格王朝遗址位于阿里地区札达县托林镇境内，9世纪中叶，吐蕃王朝崩散，部分王室后人逃往阿里，建立了三个小王国，其中德祖衮在10世纪前后建立了古格王朝。

The ruins of the Guge Dynasty are located in Tuolin Town, Zanda County, Ali District. In the middle of the 9th century, the Tubo Dynasty collapsed and some of its descendants fled to Ali and established three small kingdoms. Among them, De Zufan established the Guge Dynasty around the 10th century.

巍峨的古格故城曾经是拥有百万之众金戈铁马的吐蕃王室后裔所建。他们偏居此地700余年，传承20余代国王，距今有1300年的历史，于十七世纪灭亡。
The lofty old Ge Gucheng was once built by the descendants of the Royal Tubo who had millions of people. They lived here for more than 700 years, inherited more than 20 generations of kings, 1300 years ago, in the seventeenth century perished.

昔日的繁荣，我们只能从遗迹和留下的无数珍贵的文物和历史资料中找到答案。

We can only find the answer from the ruins and the countless precious cultural relics and historical materials left behind.

　　班公措，位于阿里地区日土县与克什米尔边境，中国和印度对该湖归属有争议，现中国控制该湖东部约三分之二，印度控制西部约三分之一。

Ban Gongcuo, located on the border between Ritu County and Kashmir in the Ali region, is disputed between China and India over the ownership of the lake. China now controls about two-thirds of the eastern part of the lake and India about one-third of the western part.

藏语意为“长脖子天鹅”，是世界上海拔最高的鸟岛。湖的东段和西段一部分在中国，西端伸入克什米尔。湖面海拔4241米，整个班公措面积604平方公里。

Tibetan, meaning long neck swan, is the highest bird island in the world. Part of the eastern and western parts of the lake is in China, and the western end extends into Kashmir. The lake is 4241 meters above sea level and the total area is 604 square kilometers.

　　狮泉河：藏语称森格藏布（意为狮口河），是印度河的上源，发源于冈底斯山主峰冈仁波齐峰北面的冰川湖。

Shiquan River: The Tibetan name Senge Zangbo (meaning Shikou River) is the upper source of the Indian River and originates from the glacial lake north of the main peak of the Gangdise Mountains, Mount Gangrenboqi.

　　盐湖 Salt Lake

当走进阿里，就像走进了野生动物世界，在这里，尤其是羌塘国家野生动物保护区，我们见到了许多动物。

When we walk into Ali, it's like walking into the wildlife world. We see a lot of animals here, especially in Qiangtang National Wildlife Reserve.

藏野驴是青藏高原特有种，国家一级保护动物。

Tibetan wild ass is an endemic species in Qinghai Tibet Plateau.

　　

　　藏羚羊为国家一级保护动物，国家已成立羌塘、可可西里、三江源等自然保护区，主要分布于中国以羌塘为中心的青藏高原地区。

Tibetan antelope is one of the first-class protected animals in China. The state has established nature reserves such as Qiangtang, Kekexili and Sanjiangyuan, which mainly distribute in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau with Qiangtang as the center.

　　藏原羚，国家二级保护动物。

Tibetan gazelle, the two class national protected animal.

　　黑颈鹤，国家一级保护动物。

Black necked Crane, national first class protected animal.

　　斑头雁，国家二级保护动物。

Spotted goose, national two grade protected animal.

　　赤麻鸭，国家二级保护动物。

Red duck, national grade two protected animals.

　棕头鸥 Brown head gull

　　凤头䴙䴘 Great Crested Grebe

　　色林措是目前西藏最大的咸水湖，位于申扎、尼玛、班戈、双湖四县的交界处。是西藏第一大湖泊及中国第二大咸水湖，同时也是黑颈鹤国家级自然保护区。

Selincuo is the largest saltwater lake in Tibet, located at the junction of Shenza, Nima, Bango and Shuanghu counties. It is the largest lake in Tibet and the second largest saltwater lake in China. It is also a black necked Crane National Nature Reserve.

　　纳木措，位于西藏自治区中部，是西藏第二大湖泊，湖面海拔4718米，面积约1920平方公里，最深处超过了120米，为世界上海拔最高的大型湖泊。

Namucuo, located in the central part of Tibet Autonomous Region, is the second largest lake in Tibet, with an elevation of 4,718 meters, an area of about 1920 square kilometers and a deepest depth of more than 120 meters. It is the largest lake in the world.

“纳木措”为藏语，蒙古语名称为“腾格里海”，都是“天湖”之意。纳木措是西藏的“三大圣湖”之一，也是古象雄佛法雍仲本教的第一神湖，为著名的佛教圣地之一。

Nam Mu CuO is Tibetan, Mongolian name is Tengger sea. It's all about Tian Hu. Nam Mu CuO is one of the three sacred lakes in Tibet. It is also the first God lake of the ancient elephant, the Buddha and the emperor, and one of the famous Buddhist shrines.

被称为世界上最高最美的湖泊之一，远处白雪皑皑的念青唐古拉山如同一列威武的武士守卫着圣湖。

Known as one of the world's tallest and most beautiful lakes, the snow-capped Nianqing Tanggula Mountains in the distance serve as a guardian of the holy lake by a line of mighty warriors.

　　唐古拉山脉位于西藏自治区东北部与青海省边境处，藏语意为“高原上的山”，在蒙语中意为“雄鹰飞不过去的高山”，是青藏高原中部的一条近东西走向的山脉。

The Tanggula Mountains lie in the northeast of Tibet Autonomous Region and the border of Qinghai Province. Tibetan means the mountain on the plateau. In Mongolian it means the mountain where eagles can't fly. It is a near East-West mountain range in the middle of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.

山脉最高峰各拉丹冬海拔6621米，唐古拉山口的海拔5220米。山峰上发育有小型冰川，为长江、澜沧江、怒江等河流的发源地。年平均气温﹣4.4℃。

The highest peak of mountain range is 6621 meters above sea level, and 5220 meters above the mouth of Tanggula pass. There are small glaciers on the mountain peaks, which are the birthplaces of rivers such as the Yangtze River, Lancang River and Nu River. The annual average temperature is 4. 4 degrees centigrade.

　　沱沱河：位于青海省格尔木市南唐古拉山镇，是长江源的西源，在可可西里山脉以南。它是一些冰川、冰斗的融水汇成的小溪流。众多河流交汇后，在这里形成了河道开阔，水流交织的长江上源——沱沱河。

Tuotuo River: Located in Gula Mountain Town of Nantang in Golmud City, Qinghai Province, it is the West source of the Yangtze River and south of the Hoh Xil Mountains. It is a stream of melted water from glaciers and ice creeks. After the intersection of many rivers, the river is open and the river is interwoven.

　　可可西里国家级自然保护区位于青海省玉树藏族自治州西部，也是中国建成的面积最大，海拔最高，野生动物资源最为丰富的自然保护区之一。

Kekexili National Nature Reserve is located in the western part of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Qinghai Province. It is also one of the largest nature reserves in China with the highest elevation and the richest wildlife resources.

2017年7月7日，可可西里经世界遗产委员会一致同意，获准列入《世界遗产名录》，成为中国第51处世界遗产。

On July 7, 2017, Coxilli was approved by the World Heritage Committee as the 51st World Heritage Site in China.

　　穿越可可西里后，我们直奔格尔木，经新建的德马高速（德令哈－马尔康）入四川马尔康回到成都，在信念和毅力地支撑下，十分欣慰地圆满结束行程。

After crossing Kekexili, we headed straight for Golmud and returned to Chengdu via the newly built De-Ma Expressway (Delingha-Malkang) in Malkang, Sichuan Province. Supported by faith and perseverance, we were very pleased to conclude our journey successfully.

阿里，您是我的天空，浩瀚无垠；您是我的风景，山水相依；您是我的秘境，浮想联翩；您是我的爱恋，追寻不止。爱你，亘古不变！

谢谢大家！

Ali, you are my sky, vast; you are my landscape, mountains and rivers depend on each other; you are my mystery, imaginative; you are my love, pursue more than. Love you forever!

Thank you for your attention！