固守家园-3.走进印第安人宽广的高原-比斯蒂荒野

muyang

Holding the Homeland -3.

Journey to the Plateau of the native Americans - Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness

当天高白云如同骇浪淹没了大地，

当地远宽广到天际留出一线金边。

行走其间犹如一粒沙石，

风吹沙动，滚下坡来，

点出一行移动的省略符号。

The sky is so high, white clouds flood the

earth like Huge waves.

The land is wide, far to a thin golden line 

at the horizon.

Walking in it, small like a piece of sandstone, the

wind blows, sand rolled down the hill, marked a line of moving ellipsis.

Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness 比斯蒂荒野；一方远古遗留下来未曾惊扰的，最荒凉的奇特谷地。位于美国新墨西哥州西南，宏伟的纳瓦霍印第安人保留地之中，方圆整整45000英亩。

Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness; the most desolate and strange 45,000 acre valley left by mother nature.

Located in the northwestern part of New Mexico, in

the magnificent Navajo Indian Reservation.

Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness 比斯蒂荒野，史前曾是内陆海域的沿海沼泽; 大树灌木；恐龙和原始哺乳动物的家园。地球上非常独特的岩层。走进荒野，史前沼泽的痕迹暴露无疑在人类面前。
借网络图片一张：

Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness, a prehistoric coastal

marsh in inland waters; large tree shrubs; homes of

dinosaurs and primitive mammals. A very unique

rock formation on the earth. Walking into the

wilderness, the traces of prehistoric swamps appear

in front of humans.

一地碎木渣、像是什么人劈柴没收拾。其实都暴露在地表面上木化石。稍耐心点儿，还会找到恐龙化石呢。

It looks like scraps from a lumber yard, but these

petrified shards are many millions of years old. If you look around, i am sure there are dinosaur bones here.

Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness 比斯蒂荒野，

错入外来星球？
越时空超现实？
徒步火星行走？

上天有灵，借助千万年的风雨，

鬼斧神工般“泥石塑”出万千的奇峰异石。

Bisti-比斯蒂一印第安语“石柱”。

Bisti / De-Na-Zin Wilderness landed on to the alien

planet? Crossed time and space? surreal? Walking on Mars?

With the help of thousands of years of wind and rain, God has carved thousands of strange stones. Bisti is

an American Indian word "stone pillar".

走进比斯蒂的荒野，便进入与世隔绝的境地。
无路，无标志，无水，无信号。
寸草难生，荒无人烟，
唯有于天地之间，奇石为邻。

Into the wilderness of Bisti, it is to enter the world of isolation, no road, no signs, no water, no grass,

nobody is living here. Only you between the heaven and earth. The strange stones were our only

neighbors.



正值七月大暑，雨季，天气莫测。

It is in July, the summer heat, the monsoon season,

the weather is unpredictable.

所谓荒野大暑、就是高温干燥，如不能及时进水，炎日之下人体中的水分很快就会不知觉得从皮肤蒸发掉。后果不堪设想。

The so-called wilderness heatwave is high

temperatures and dryness. The water in the human

body soon evaporates from the skin. If you dont keep drinking water the consequences could be disastrous.

所谓沙漠雨季、就是不知什么时候会有倾盆雷阵雨，站在荒野中央，环顾四方可以清楚地数出有几个蘑菇雨云正围拢而来。空旷得无处躲藏。一个响雷霹雳下来，后果不难想象。

The so-called Desert Monsoon season is a

thunderstorm shower can be occurring any time.

Standing in the middle of the wilderness, looking

around all directions, you can clearly count out how many mushroom rain clouds are coming toward to

you. There is nowhere to hide from the Lightening. The consequences are not difficult to imagine.

所谓奇特岩层，就是黏胶陶土上有一层岩石（石柱实为黏胶土柱，顶着个岩石柱头。）雨后泥地一脚踩下增厚一寸，五步开外、五寸泥脚底，重得迈不开步来。不要说有多滑。隔天阵雨后依然滑跤，表层干硬底层湿滑。一脚滑倒先硬后软，后果显而易见。

The so-called strange rock formation is a layer of

rock on the (viscose)sticky clay (the stone column is actually a clay column. The top layer of the column

is rock ). After the rain, stepped down on the mud,

the bottom of shoes will immediately thickened by

one inch. After five steps, and five-inch mud will be stock on the bottom of your shoes.

Very heavy, and not to mention how slippery. The

day after storm showers, the ground was still

slippery. dry and hard on the surface, but muddy and slippery underneath. Fall down in these conditions,

the consequences are obvious.

没有向导进入原始荒野是十分危险的，迷失方向走不出来；暴雨袭击逃不出来；滑倒碰伤救不出来，我们有幸请到了非常有野外经验，熟悉地形及气候的印第安人向导。稳重的Kialo和助手憨厚的Gilbert。有他们的引路，心里安稳多了。

It is very dangerous to enter the primitive wilderness without an experienced guide. You may lose

direction and not get out; you may encounter a

thunderstorm and can’t escape; you may fall and

can't get help. we were fortunate to have two very good guides; experienced, and familiar with the terrain, the climate, and the wilderness, steady Kialo and his assistant Gilbert. With their guidance, my heart was much more secure.

Kialo指着东北角压过来的黑云 “你们不必紧张，我在观察阵雨的走向，预算的时间，会带大家安全离开。”

Kialo points to the black cloud over the northeast

corner. "You don't have to be nervous. I am watching the direction of the thunderstorm. I will take

everyone to safety in time ."

相信印第安人与生俱来有与天地沟通的灵气。Kialo不时眺望长空挥动着双臂，无法置信，风转向，云消散，压顶乌云退却下去。夕阳温和地平射过来，Gilbert盘坐坡顶，臂膀环抱暖光。闭目轻声咏诵……

I believe that the Indians are born with the ability to

communicate with the heavens . Many times Kialo

looked at the sky and reached out with his arms.

Unimaginably, the wind changed direction, the

clouds dissipated, and the dark thunderstorms

dropped back to the Horizon。Gilbert sat on the top of the slope and faced the sun, and embraced the

warm light with his arms, and closed his eyes in

prayer...

Magic！神灵！瞬间，比斯蒂荒野变得色彩斑斓，摄影者祈求的景致依依出现：双道彩虹，落日余晖，火烧彩云，新月高升。其变化真是以分钟来计算。

Gods Magic! In an instant, the Bisti wilderness

became dramatically colorful, and the spectacular

scenes that all photographers wish for appeared one by one: double rainbows, the sunsets dramatic

burning clouds, the rising moon in the rosy sky . The colors kept changing minute by minute.

兴奋，激动，慌乱。

根本来不及支三脚架，
用尽浑身数解去取景，构图，拍摄。

急匆匆、忘记干燥地表下面的湿泥，

一失脚摔跪了下去。

算是拜谢了荒野。

Moved, excited, and enchanted.

There was no time for setting up a tripod, but quickly think all the technical points, then compose and

shoot. In a hurry, forgot the wet mud under the dry

surface, slipped and knelt down to the the ground,

really a bow to the Besti wilderness.

这真是太美了！

不能不高声让老天知晓我的感受。
不由自主地像 Kialo 那样地张开双臂，

仰向天空。

Oh god, this is too beautiful to be true ! Cant help

shouting loudly to let God know how I feel. Opened my arms, Just like Kialo and reached to the sky.

我们有幸能做比斯蒂荒野的见证人，
令Kialo 和 Gilbert心慰。
两位印第安人的后裔，不仅是好向导，

还是不错的摄影者。
梦想有一天通过他们的摄影作品，
让更多的人认识他们的家园。

We are fortunate to be witnesses to the Bisti

Wilderness.

Kialo and Gilbert are very pleased that they were part of our Journey. These descendants of Native Indian

are not only good guides, but also are good

photographers. They hope that one day, through their photography works, more people will know their

home.

为什么要来？

为什么要经历酷暑炎晒？

为什么对应这样多的气候未知数？

就是因为Bisti，比斯蒂荒野。

不来，何以见得到这般奇景？

何以懂得什么是天地之间？

Why are we coming?

Why do we have to experience the heat and

sunburn ?

Why do we have to face unpredictables?

我们，

我们每一个人，

难道不是都在这天地之间？



We,

Each of us,

Aren’t we all standing 

between heaven and earth?


　　特此，感谢 Kialo 提供 Muyang ，Jack实地照片。

Special thanks to Kialo for the photos of Muyang and Jack.